Don't know if I mentioned this in a previous video comment.......I include a strong, small, flat magnet in my butt bag while on the trail. I do this to magnetically capture the needle clip......to change clip position...press against the magnet....it hangs onto clip.....select what position you want the clip in and, again, press the clip with the magnet. I arrived at this idea after losing a clip/looking for it for an hour in the dust and having to jury-rig a tiny piece of wire to act as a clip. Also, I carry an extra clip in my butt bag in a tiny container.
I have a big bore from a 125 to a 134, I have the stock jetting which actually works for where I am. I called multiple places and they said it should be running lean but it seems to be running rich. So my question is can I go with the factory jetting chart, and is my big bore requiring a richer or leaner jet. The main is a 380 which seems massive. Main-380 Needle jet-45 Needle-6beg20-68 3rd from top Air screw-2-1/2
+Chozn1nishy6474 Reeds are pretty easy... just have to work your way to them. Take carb out completely. Reed valve sits between the carb and cylinder. Remove the 5 (I think) bolts that let you pop out the reed cage/valve system. Inspect reeds for damage, change them, whatever. Use new gasket, and put it back together.
In the owner's manual you have some information about carburetor tuning, for a start. I'm talking about Ktm, Husky and Husaberg. I don't know about the others.
The most I've learned from a video in a long time..great filming, great explanations, and your terminology such as "little white plastic thing" and "this thing, I don't know what it's called" is my kind of language. I now know exactly what to do and how to do it, and I'll definitley be subscribing. Keep up the great work, ride hard, and be safe!!
tf is jetting ? damn and i wanted to get a 2 stroke . I don't know shit about mechanic , all i want to do is ride and hope my shit doesn't break , lmao .
Same here dude!! I can dismantle everything, but the lack of knowledge is scary because if something going to broke deep in the motor area I'm fucked! But fuck it I'm still going to buy a 250 2 stroke and hope for the best!
Wow i feel like a dummy that tip with the spring haha the same way it comes off is never fun well ill be doing it your way from now on thanks for the tip
I think you should talk about reading Piston Wash/Scavenge Pattern when discussing proper jetting setup. Other than EGT's (Exhaust Gas Temps), a proper wash on your piston is the only real way to know if you've got the bike jetted right, without peppering a piston. Reading numbers in a manual is fine, but it doesnt tell you if thats where your bike should truly be. Proof is in the carbon!
It was worth the prrice of admission for that tip alone!!! Having chased springs and plastic needle/throttle cable retainers allover my garage, I will gladly try this next time I change the needle on my OKO/PWK clone carb.
I never wanted to touch the carb just cause I had no idea what to do. That video was great, I will definitely save some money by doing this myself. Cheers. Keep the great vids coming.
4 years later and you’re still saving people money ! Just did this an hour ago.. unfortunately I’m coming from Colorado and riding in PA so I got my jets replaced.. road it didn’t feel right.. procrastinated until tonight and changed my clip position from 1 to 3 and it still doesn’t feel as powerful or crispy as it did in Colorado I bought the bike used so I couldn’t tell ya what exact needle is in there (other than it ran perfect in Colorado lol) so I moved the clip to position 3 (what I read in the manual for OEM) and it still doesn’t feel right 😓 gotta go pick up the right needle I guess lol
how do you know what jets to use? I have an 01 yz125 had the engien rebuilt and I rebuilt the carb it has a pro curcit pipe and v force reeds and ik those play into what jets you use just don't know what jets to use so please help lol
Lookup what your altitude is, and then your avg temperature, then order a main jet that fits that, and look up the needle position number at your altitude
tip... try not to ever use the open end side of the wrenches on any bolt. Always use the box end (preferably 6 sided) to break bolts loose and to tighten.
Damn... i feel like an idiot for struggling with those springs for the past 15 years hahah. Never thought about putting it back like that. Great video!
I bought a new 2016 sx 250 . First time I went on it spark plug fouled straight away before I got on track. Anyway to cut it short my air fuel mixture was out by half a turn so I put it back to settings out Manuel which was 2 turns from right the way in n haven't had any problems since
I have seen lots of great videos on the mechanical aspects of working on the carb, but I wish there was a video that demonstrated symptomatic effects of improper jeting. ie. How the bike runs when to lean or to rich on all 3 components main,pilot and needle.
I have a 2003 KTM 125 SX, I need to remove the float bowl in order to change the pilot jet, which is a bummer. It would be nice if I could access both the main and pilot jet from the center hex cap.
When you pulling the needle and throttle cable out of the carburator at 6:50. What is creating that resistance and pushing the needle and lever back inside the carburator? I'm worry to pull the needle up? Even needle and slider are moving easily, I feel like I will pull too much on the spring. Do I have to release or pull anything to get the needle out of carb body?
solved the problem now it was a split in the inlet rubber so when i rapped the throttle on it opened up letting excess air into the mix killing the engine thanks anyway
I have a 2008 ktm 300 xc. I don't ride above 2000ft. I bought the bike used. The guy was running a needle I never seen and has no indications on it on notch 3, 175 main, and 38 pilot, air screw was way out and ran great. All of a sudden the other day I lost a ton of low end power. Rejetted multiple times still had issue. I believe it's the reeds so I'm gunna get vforce 4 reeds. Will I need to rejet for the reeds? Or can I follow the book?
I don’t know anymore I just bought a 150r and it runs like absolutely sh*t no wonder they don’t have warranties waste of money I took it to 2 different dealerships and they said it runs fine the damn bike bogging like crazy I’m going fast and it just bogs and die and the whole time while riding it backfires sounds like a f****** ak47 goin down the road f*** me dude
of course its easy to take out and reinstall a carb and jets....the harder part is knowing what sizes and clip positions to implement in reguards to your specific altitude ,temp, dew points, riding style,.. ratios etc......
KTM is the hardest bike to work on soo tight every other bike I’ve owned everything is easy accesss I don’t know why ktm has to be soo tight fitting even just to change the spark plug too damn tight need a socket and open end wrench smh 🤦🏼♂️
Just courious you mention that bigger the number the richier will be but by tour graphic number 5 was on top that means that the needle goes down. If that's the case you restrict the air and the bike will be leaner. What im missing here?.
and the ghetto way is ive seen people put spring onover the cable on ther side so it never gets into the middle of spring like it should and the spring looks all cockeed and makes throttle stiffer...it does work but its not right
my engine runs a little rough, the same bike (300exc *12) of my friend runs very smooth with much less vibrations, he has a jd jetting kit in it but i think its not only the jetting kit. what should i do? needles,... are in standard positions and standard size (right adjustment for my area) - nice video but hard to understand for a german :-P
I bought one of those JD Jetting kits and found it to be EXTREMELY overpriced for what you get. It only came with 2 needles and 3-4 main jets with one Idle jet. You are better off to just buy a mix of jets and needles for your carb from your dealer/online. It will be less than half of the money. As for why your bike runs rough, it's difficult to diagnose without riding it. Look at the chart for jetting in your manual. It will show suggestions for your elevation and temperature. Use that as a starting point and then fine tune from there.
thx for answering. the needles and jets are in right positions for my conditions (temp and elevation). i'm only wondered about the engine, can't explain it better: the engine runs rough with much vibrations, not only in idle, also at half or full throttle. the engine of my friend runs very smooth and have a better response. i ride 1:55 mixture (1:60 recommended, think it's better with a bit more oil) should i take a smaller or bigger jet or try another needle position?
EnduroAction Keep in mind that running more oil in the gas causes the fuel/air mixture to become leaner overall. I know that sounds counter-intuitive. When deciding the fuel pre-mix ratio, always go with the recommendation of the oil manufacturer. If it's VIBRATION coming from the motor, I'm not sure your carburetor is causing it. In my experience, the carburetor will determine how well the motor runs and will effect performance, but it won't cause vibration. Vibration makes me wonder if you have something out of balance. I might take it to a mechanic someone who has a lot of experience with your bike model.
Thank you so much!!! you make this stuff so easy!!! been following your channel for awhile now and you have saved me so many headaches!! keep it up bro!!
Oh Boy... i don't know how often i raged out because of this fucking spring. And now you're showing us the simpleest way doing it without any anger. Dude... thank you for showing me how dumb i am for not realizing this.. :D
hi can you tell me why my bike revs fine if i feed the throttle on steady,but off idle if i rap the throttle on it dies,but if i put the choke on half way it is fine,do you think it could be the main jet too lean,it does idle perfect and fuel screw is 1 1/2 turns out with 38 slow jet,my main is a 95 the bike is xr 125 honda
i must say the single most important lesson this vid demonstrates is the spring trick on the slide....that is golden to a newbie and once you do all this and reassemble and bike fires right up...the confidence boost that inspires is priceless and wiill give u more confidence in future tuning sessions. but on the spring method ...until i learned that.. i would feed cable on the bottom of slide and lock it in ONLY AFTER i had put the spring on and as id compress the spring..id hold it in the most compressed position and then use a pair of small vise grips to clamp on the wire right below the spring so it stays in the position it needed to get cable end into groove and seated right..then id pop off the vise grips and slide her in the carb housing... its really frustrating and on average that step took me around 45 mintes of trial and error before i got it locked in correctly and was the single most difficult step for me to complete....so with the spring twist on method....the hole process will go light years faster!!!!
Hey! I have a 2015 Honda Crf230f and I checked the spark plug and it was VERY white at the tip telling me it is way to lean. I took apart the carb and I have a size 110 main jet and a size 42 pilot jet. Which jets should I buy to get the engine running a proper air/fuel mixture? Thanks!
Lol , 300 BLK OUT is very expensive for a lil yappy mutt like that........ new sub here , keep up the awesome work you're doing ! I'm wanting to get back into dirt bikes and your 4 stroke vs 2 stroke videos have got me thinking now . Had my mind set on a 450 but now I'm thinking 2 stoke.........thanks a lot ! 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks for your content. I have a 2017 KTM 250 XCW. I was going to follow your instructions to rejet the new Mikuni but access seems really limited. Since you have the new 300 XC, which I assume is similar, any advice on "getting in there?" I have an electronic module hanging down from the frame above the top of the carb.
That little cup at the bottom of spring! Gotta watch that tongue inside of boot. REAL IMPORTANT! Your video with the cup up on the throttle wire FIRST and slide the cup down in SLIDE with the tongue inside of keeper is important. The spring trick was dead on. THANK YOU. Without that trick the cup is a 50/50 of seating correctly. Glad I saw this much earlier. Saved me time and tooling issues. Light at the end of the tunnel was quick.
Honest question here. Do you really have to change jets mid-way a ride? Cant you just stick pick a mid-way jet and stick with it for the entire ride? I'd understand if something's broken and your bike wont run then it's a good idea to take it apart.
No but you should be adjusting your fuel/air mix about every 5-7 degrees F. Not hard just give your engine the max amount of air to idle at the highest RPM. Changing internal jets, needles, slide position will not need to be changed until more dramatic altitude or temp changes. Ktm jetting App will give you all this info plus much more, check it out.
I can make jet needles by hand. hand made needles. i made for my Husky 2 stroke. the metal is phosfor bronze.may be i 'm the only one who can do handmade needles. after assembled the bike moved very good.
i have a 1995 Suzuki rm250 i think in the bottom bowel in the bottom the air tube i think its called on the inside of the float bowel i think its rubbing on the the float and making it stay open i have gas coming out of every spot when i turn it on have you heard of this and what could be the fix?
i need help its a atv bigbear 400 2007. i have a jet kit put all of it in except the jet. the number of the jet is on top of the jet, but i cant find which one to use i live in east texas.number 138,140,128,124,120,136.thank you
really need help, this new mikuni carb on my 17 300 exc is killing me. I've only done 4.5 hours and opening to mid range gas sounds quite croaky and not smooth, the power isn't all there low down and she's running out of fuel quite quickly. not very good with carbs other than twisting a couple of screws haha, would appreciate some advice.
Man my buddy has a new to him 01 rm 125 thats been bored .50 over, he got it real cheap cause it's sluggish in first, wont even stand up. it pours oil out the pipe like the guy rejetted the carb and put too big of a jet in (which i read below) but would this cause the bike to be sluggish? New power valve? Im dumbfounded. Thanks
Hi, thanks for this great tutorial ! I want to put an FMF Factory Fatty pipe with an FMF Shorty silencer on a '17 KTM sx 125, do you know what jet and what needle i should use please ?
I’m having issues on kx125 with a Athena big bore kit. It hesitates half to three quarter throttle on acceleration then jolts speeds up quick. I cleaned carb but still feels like it’s starving. Do you think the needle should be adjusted?
I have rm 125 and I run 40:1 without a prob and I'm putting a new top end and I would like to drop to 32:1 and keep 32:1 would I mix the gas then jet my carb to 32:1 or is there a way I can pre jet it so whenever I get back together I can just put 32:1 in it and it run good
How do you get the rearmost bolt of the front sprocket/ chain guard "thing" off? I cannot get my hand, or a tool, in there to get the torx bolt off? The rear shock and parts of the engine are in the way..
Hey broski. Quality video. When searching for diy videos there's a lot of garbage, and then there's good ones like yours. Always grateful to the individuals who can pull it off God bless
I get this is a older video but my friends KX 125 has been having trouble with idling and feel like the carb might need new jetting. And I am from Utah and do a lot of higher elevation riding, what would you recommend for the bike?
WTF put in smaller jet but open the needle should have just left it alone here in WV we set and forget jets people say rejet for every 5-7 degrees here you'd be rejeting more than riding we start in the morning at say 45 degrees and by midday it's 80 degrees according to that you'd never make it 5 miles
So why no comments on your wash video, Pressure wash you must love putting greaser back in you swing arm and changing wheel bearings. terrible information terrible wash technique
That spring trick is the best thing I have learned in a long time as my arthritic hands get worse. I recently adopted 3 KTMs and this has been a lifesaver on the 300 and the 440. Which brings to mind a question about the 525: Why have modern 4 stroke carbs become so huge and complicated?
ive only ridden 4ts and im looking into a 01 yz125, so if im going about 5 miles down the highway to a mx track im good with jetting right? like im not in mountains or anything