How to Jump Start a dead motorcycle battery, the easy way | Moto Booster 

Thank you so much. I appreciate that. Glad to have you here.👍

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching 👍

If it's a battery that no longer hold a charge, I'm afraid there is no way to revive it. If it's just dead because you left the ignition switch out, then start the bike with a booster or jump start it, and either leave it running with a little throttle, or go for a ride for at least 10 minutes. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 👍

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for commenting.

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching

I'm glad I was able to help, and save your sanity. Not many people know this is possible, hence the video. Thanks for watching and commenting. Ride safe

Yes, I left a link for the correct cable without a fuse. You also want a heavy gauge cable (I use a 10 awg) to handle that high current without melting. Don't ask me how I know 🤣. Thanks for the comment 👍

My bike has an inline fuse between the plug and battery. It blew the fuse. Good idea with the extra connector. Actually I think I may just replace my inline fuse connector since the new battery tenders are “smart” chargers. I’ll probably be okay without the fused connector. Or, in winter, I can just add the fused one back on for the season.

Thanks. Glad it was helpful. Yeah, it sucks when that happens. I actually just replaced my unit with a newer model which is awesome. Charges your phone, laptop, games etc. I will be doing a review video when we return from our west coast trip. But here is the link in the meantime. amzn.to/2UsRkFD Thanks for commenting.

That's great. Glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching.

We've all been there. It really is a simple yet effective solution. Glad it was of help. Ride safe

Glad it helped 👍

It sure is. Glad you found the video useful.

Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it 😊

That’s actually a great idea. Never thought of pausing and returning to complete a ride. I’m glad this video could help you out. Thanks for watching

Glad it was useful. Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍

Harley Girl75 Better in the garage than on the road. Thanks for commenting. Ride safe

Glad you enjoyed it

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment.

Oh that sucks. Those adapters do come in handy.

Glad I was able to help. Ride safe.

They do come in handy. Thanks for watching.

Thanks Peter.

Thanks for sharing!

Thanks a lot. It's really help!!!

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching

Thanks 👍

Philly .D it offers great peace of mind. Did you rig something to the battery, or you just use the jumper clips?

I set mines up the same way you did yours with the battery attachment for easy access.

Jerry Crafton Aren't they great? Sure, I'll put together a video about my upgrades and mods. It might take a little time as I am working on a few videos, but I'll try and put something together for you ASAP. Thanks for the support.

The link for the cable to connect to your Noco jump boost is working. amzn.to/3huvb5B just make sure it is a standard EC5 Plug as some companies are now making a proprietary connection.

If it is not fused and at least 12awg, you should be fine. I prefer a 10awg as there's quite a bit of current going through when jump starting, and I have seen cheap, thin cables melt.

Hi, it's not an extended, it's simply a sae female to sae male cable. There's a link in the description. On the bike, the cable going to the battery is NOT fused. The jumper puts out a high current, so most fuses will blow. Just take care to discontent as soon as the bone starts. Hope this helps

Thank you. There is one company that does make it, I am currently making another video about it. Look for it in the next couple of weeks. Stay safe my friend.

Well there you go. Glad to help. Some tips for you. Make sure the sae cable is of a thick gauge. I prefer at least a 10 awg. And disconnect as soon as the bike starts to prevent power leaking back to the booster and damaging it.

Originally I did by modifying the original cable. But it wasn't pretty, so I ended up purchasing a premade cable I found like the one in the link I left in the description.

Great question. I bypassed the fuse to avoid that problem. You could technically put a high amperage fuse, but that would defeat the purpose.

I think I just have misspoke in one comment where I stated that is fused. It is not. I do caution you too check the polarity, and also remove the cable as soon as it starts the bike. Mike

I keep it at 400A since motorcycles have small batteries and I don't want to fry anything. A car one would work, but I would be cautious if the amperage is very high, make sure you disconnect it as soon as it starts.

@@MRMRS2wheeler Thanks for this video .. this is really great.. I got my first bike and i realized that jump start should be the last option only... I was thinking of using this for winters and at home when the battery is drained but i was advised on not doing this and using a battery charger instead.. I wish there could be portable battery chargers instead.

@Colin M Not sure if it's a new bike but congrats. But I will kind of agree. This method is more for a quick jumpstart if you are stuck. If you are storing the bike for winter, you should have a battery tender (not a charger) on it. It's more commonly known as a trickle charger. The way I have it rigged up, is with the connection of a battery tender (Called an SAE cable) which I use if storing my bike for an extended period (which doesn't happen often) so the same cable serves multiple functions. The booster I use here and many others on the market are made specifically for motorcycles and can be used safely. I have used mine here at home at least a dozen times with no issues. ( I drain it often while working on electrical addons ) A portable charger would take way too long to be convenient enough to carry around as usually it takes several hours to charge a battery to 100%. Hope this clarifies things for you. Ask any questions you might have.

@@MRMRS2wheeler Thank you for your inputs...Its a Triumph Speedmaster and I am the second owner and my first bike in Chicago. I keep the ignition on Park not realizing it would drain the battery completely. This is a great video. Only i wished we got a portable battery tender so i can use in any location instead of jump start..

My St1300 is the same, which is why I came up with this solution. I am working on an updated video to this, should be out soon. Glad it was helpful. Thanks for commenting.

The cable type is a standard sae. But you want a heavy gauge cable to handle the high current. 8-10 awg. Preferably 8 awg. Thinner one will melt.

Ok. I was just hoping to use the SAE cable I already have attached to the battery for the in-the-bike part. I thought that was what I saw you use. (The part you tucked up inside at the end of the video.) I guess not.

@@bradb2514 to clarify, I did use the cable that was there, but it is a 10 awg cable. It can handle the current. If yours is a thick, quality cable, go ahead. Should be fine.

Got it! Many thanks!

@@bradb2514 glad to help

I didn't use that cord. I purchased a heavier gauge cord that can handle that current. I can look for the link if you need. Thanks for watching. 👍

There is no fuse on mine. But, very important. Once the bike starts, disconnect the cable immediate. The power can run backwards into the booster and overheat.

It will depends on the amperage of the fuse. If it's high enough, it might not blow.

@@MRMRS2wheeler Thanks for the quick reply. I ended reading more of the comments and found that yeah, it might blow. I think you pointed out that if you install a second pigtail that does not have a fuse with a cable that is thick Entro handle the amps, you can avoid the gator clamps altogether.

@@DoroteoVilla that's true. I only have three cable without a fuse installed and use that for everything.

ronald subillaga I thought I had the links in the description. Somehow they got deleted. I put them back. amzn.to/2XtQR8S Booster amzn.to/2X1bJ2G Cable Thanks for your support.

You are correct. They are mostly EC5 connectors, but I have not had any issues in almost 5 years. As long as you have a thick gauge cable and remove it as soon as the bike starts, you should be fine. Thanks for watching.

Hi, I'm glad it was useful. Here is the link to the cable you need. Please check the polarity (positive/negative)with the device you are using to start the motorcycle. This cable includes an adapter if it is reversed (some devices are backwards) and since there is no fuse, make sure to disconnect as soon as the bike starts to avoid electrical issues.amzn.to/475cRaZ Thanks for watching 👍

​@@MRMRS2wheelersure but i cant see the link 😅

@@_existed_8050 sorry here: amzn.to/475cRaZ

​@@MRMRS2wheelergreat 🙏 oh ya if there is fuse and without fuse is there a difference ? Or is it just meant for extra protection 😅

@@_existed_8050 with a fuse it’s problematic because the high amperage needed to start the bike will blow the fuse every time.

You sure can! Works great 👍

@@MRMRS2wheeler Thank you.. the cable says voltage 1-48V Current: within 60 A ... SAE to EC5 Adapter cable.. should i order? I have a HOG Booster..

@@satyambrahmbhatt5839 If that is the cable in my link, it will work fine, as I have the same and I tested it. Since you have a different booster and I'm not familiar with it, just make sure the positive and negative match your booster and wiring on the bike, you can look at the original cable suplied with the booster and check the colors (red positive, black ground). I have another booster sent to me by a company for review, and the polarity was reversed. So BE CAREFUL!!! I would also make sure that it is at minimum 10 awg (that's the thickness) 8 awg is even better, but hard to find. If it is too thin, it can overheat and melt. Also, as soon as the bike starts, remove the cables immediately as current can travel back in to the booster. I hope that helps.

Very helpful tnx.....

Glad I could help 😃

That is correct. On my updated video of the jump starter (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-82G_kGM6-xY.htmlsi=TO7YidSH_km1aCzK), I touch on the subject. Yes, it is a concern as some of the newer unit do have reversed polarity (and also proprietary plugs, not standard EC5) and the switching adapters do work. But make sure you get a quality one, as I have had some heat up and melt under the high current while jump starting.

@@MRMRS2wheeler Excellent - watched and subscribed! BTW I guess that discount code on the Halo Bolt doesn't work anymore?

@TheJamesConrad No, it has expired. But if you use the link in the video, there is currently a $39 coupon you can click to bring the price to $89 (only $10 bucks more) still a great value. I appreciate you subscribing.

No, I never had an issue with the fuse. Just make sure the fuse is rated high enough to match your booster's amperage. I think mine is 15 or 20 amps. Hope this helps. Ride safe!

MR & MRS 2wheeler ok thanks

@@kennethgacek2144 Sure, anytime.

Not sure I understand. The heated grips are connected straight to the battery. Which plug are you talking about?

@@MRMRS2wheeler the plug on the motorcycle with the yellowish cap

@@MRMRS2wheeler refering to the video on the mods you need. At 8:47, there are 2plugs , looks like f 15 amp written on it.

Ah ok. Those are powerlet plugs for our heated gear. I don't think they could hold the amps needed to start the bike. But good thinking. I'll have to try that. Thanks for the comment.

@@MRMRS2wheeler Ok cool. So it could be used for a slow trickle charger connection.

The link is in the descrption buudy. Ride safe.

Yes it is.

Not sure what you mean

Which connection? To the battery?

@@MRMRS2wheeler yes I have the battery connector already in place. I just need to find a booster that can connect to it.

@@alessandroauger7871 if you look in the description, there is a link to the cable that works with most boosters. Just double check the polarity.

That is true if you're home. My solution is portable for those times when you are out on the road and have a dead battery. Ride safe!

I would first check and make sure your polarity is not reversed. Some boosters are made backwards. Second, how big is the fuse on the battery tender? Most don't have fuses, so that may be your problem. Mine doesn't. Let me know. Mike

I just checked the links and the one for the cable you need is working. I did update the link for the booster (thank you for the heads up). If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Sorry to hear it didn't work for you. Couple of questions. What brand did you buy? Enough amps for your T Rex? Was it fully charged? What type of connection went to the battery? What gauge cable? Did you see any difference when connected? Lights come on? Instrument panel, etc? Some of these units need a little time to charge the battery a bit before jumping it. Let me know, maybe I can help you troubleshoot it

That's a valid concern. The only fuse you could possibly blow, is the fuse on the lead cable that's connected to the battery terminals, that's why I replace that cable to a heavier gauge cable long before coming up with this mod, and have never had an issue. Thanks for the comment. Ride safe

I don't understand that. Care to translate please?

Great tip, thanks. On my bike I don't have ready access to the starter bolt, so leaving the sae cable connected to the battery is the easiest solution and it works great Thanks for watching 👍

Hi, what’s the reason you couldn’t make it through the video?

@@MRMRS2wheeler Preview, intro, repeat the things you said and did in the preview... That's not what I look for in an instructional video. Just show the trick. This video is damn near perfect. Look how many views (and likes) it has. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--2h0mqLnB6Y.html

@@riparianlife97701 I appreciate the feedback. I'll make a note of that, and make changes accordingly.

They make them longer. Thanks for watching.

@@jamesquah9733 sure. As long you have a positive and negative post on the battery, it will work on any battery.