For clamping the outer tube i made a half clap from a lower triple clamp that i hold in the vice and the clamp holds the fork tube.. Man does it work smooth..
I did this this weekend. I bought heavier fork springs and all the tools and supplies 3 years ago but dreaded trying this. I ended up with a dripping fork last weekend at the track so it was time. It actually went very well I think. Thanks for the vid!
Good tips Very similar techniques that aircraft engineers use when overhauling undercarriage. We would run our thumb nail all over the fescalised portion and if you felt any ridges or bumps it would be either gently blended out or replaced. Also don't forget to measure that everything is in tolerance. Less of an issue on newer bikes but on older higher hour components definitely worth checking. Good video though - enjoyed it.
Thank you for a comprehensive and simple to follow video. I have a question on the rod when I fill with fluid and screw the cap I noticed fluid is leaking from the bottom and increases when i compress the rod, and losing the pressure what is the problem?
@@tbtracing1308 thank you again for your prompt reply. Sorry for being ignorant but when you say the cartridge seal is it the one on the rod? I have an RM 250 1994 R model can you please specify more details. I really appreciate your help.
I decided to have a crack at replacing 2017 WR450F fork oil seal, guide bush, piston bush etc,.... after disassembly i found the 'Free Piston' on the Base Valve assembly had its lower O ring chipped, about 2 x 2mm missing, also found the thin plastic lip that holds the Base Valve lower wear bush in its place is broken almost all the way around, the pieces of plastic are very brittle, i wonder if oil heat is turning the plastic brittle. Apparently its common for the KYB 48mm AOS fork with plastic piston to suffer cracks or complete failure, im changing over to the alloy type
anyone have problems with the fork not rebounding - I follow the procedure, but things go side ways when I fully compress the inner assembly - it won't compress anymore and will actually keep the rod sucked in... I have tried multiple times and nothing seems to work.
Anybody-- What is really the reason why we are emptying out oil in the inner cartridge after taking out bubbles? Or How will you know if it is extra???
I dont think Travis is emptying out the oil, he's using this procedure to get the correct amount. He starts by adding too much, then by his procedure sets the correct amount according to it's own volume.
And don't ask me why im watching this.. Lol, guess the cold garage has me killing the day watching bike stuff iv seen a 100 times. This stuff never gets old!
nice video i've got a question about inner chamber free piston is in normal that free piston have about 6 mm of free movement along axle?? when whole element is ready for putting in the place i can't find any informations about it bike is 2012 crf 450 it is kyb suspension sorry for language i'm not the best in english
Hi great video new to the channel! I'm going to look at a YZ250 how do I know if they are the real SSS forks or they are the AOS forks. Is there a way that the insides could be changed with the outer sleeve of the SSS fork? it looks like to my knowledge the SSS forks have like a double ridge where they meet on the fork and the top of the forks would be different but I'm not sure what the AOS would look like. Thanks.
Can anyone comment on what to do when the dampening rod adjuster nut is out of spec when it's seated at the end of the threads? The manual calls for .5 to 1mm of space between the adjuster nut and the rebound adjuster piece before tightening. I have about 2mm or more. So, do I shim the adjuster inside with a washer, or is it ok to have the adjuster nut a thread or so up from the end of the threads to bring it into spec? Any help is appreciated! Great video!
Your comment is 3 months old as of me writing this -- How did yours perform? Just finished rebuilding mine minutes ago, and the gap between the rebound adjuster and the lock nut was 1.95mm on one of mine and 2.24mm on the other (before tightening the lock nut up into the adjuster). Both were finger tight as far as they would go. Manual makes it out like it's important, but I just moved past it since I figure maybe the point they were trying to get across, generally speaking, was to make certain that the adjuster was all the way onto the rod and to then hold that position by tightening the lock nut into it.
hello I ask you a question I weigh 106kg with the motorcycle equipment, the motorcycle suspension of my motorcycle is too soft, I wanted to know how much should be the supplement that I can place, I could see what to that suspension of your video you put a supplement .
Great instructional video. I have one question. You set the outer bushing and oil seal together. I have always set the bushing first then the oil seal. How do we know the outer busing is fully set in place? Thanks
the dealer did this overhauling to my dyatona's forks for no reason under warrenty. but soon after i noticed that on 1 side the there is oil "wetness" below the dust seal. i asked them about it the told me that maybe they overfilled the piston an this residue will go away with usage.. does this make sense
Zy H if they spilt oil while filling the fork upside down like on the 4cs fork oil can easily get behind the dust seal and will ooze out. clean with contact cleaner and it will go away from my experience.
