A quick tutorial on the basic of laminating something with fiberglass. We will show you the different fiberglass mats, how to mix resin and catalyst and apply it to the fiberglass amy and then how to roll it out. Hope this helps.
Thank you.. been looking for a video that makes the prices simple. I also appreciate that you showed as well as spoke in regards to the different types of cloth materials. 👍👍. Two thumbs up from me. 🙂
i have never don't the wet trimming we've always waited for it to kick off and grinded it of with 40 grit but that's pretty nice learned something new sweet thx hahah great video
Better method is to pre coat the plywood with epoxy resin let it set and then do it again, especially on the end grain until the board stops absorbing . This will prevent the fiber glass from separating from the plywood over time.
This washer demonstration purposes, feel feel to modify this accordingly to fit your needs or demands. As I stated at approx 7:30 in video how important it is to wet out the wood very well. Thanks and have a good day.
hey man... I loved Ur video... thanks a lot to share... I wanna know can I lay two sheet together and apply resun or should I lay one sheet first then resin>rolling>waiting to dry> rubbing sand paper>resin>second sheet>resin... what should I do??
Hello. Great video! Very informative and I appreciate the time you took going in-depth. Based off your personal experience in using both epoxy and polyester resin, what would you use if you were to make a Fiberglass Mother Mold of a rubber latex mold for decorative castings? Would you say it makes a difference as far as working with the mold and doing its job?
Without seeing what you are doing, and since you said casting, I am assuming a lot of detail. May look into this product line for this. I have done some casting in the past and this stuff is amazing and very easy to use. www.smooth-on.com
hey man good video I work at hatteras yatchs and do a lot of fiber glass laminating.... very good video for ppl trying to learn..... we do it a little different then what you showed here like wetting out the fiberglass we put the resin on both sides before we lay it and we lay 2-4 pieces at a time and roll them out... we do it over head laminating the super to the hull side of the boat and that's really a task in areas that you can't move in and we use MEKP-9 as a catalyst and that mess will burn the hell out of you so maybe it's a good ideal to mention wearing gloves bc there's no telling what catalyst ppl are going to use...... but anyways great video
Love the video! I do have a somewhat long winded question I am having trouble with. I have a New Fiberglas jeep tub I am installing onto a old cj7 frame. The tub has no provisions to support the front side of the parking brake assembly on the lower cowl by your left foot.. In original form the pedal assembly has two studs that go through the firewall and then a single bolt fastened to a bracket spot welded to the lower inside side of the cowl and inside the passenger compartment. The two studs will go through the fiberglass firewall alright but there isn't any bracket support on the side of the tub for the front of the bracket to fasten to. In stock form a 3/8s bolt goes through the pedal assembly and fastens it from the side. What I need to do is add a plywood block on the inside of the tub that has a nutsert in it to fasten the assembly. The nutsert isn't the issue. I know it needs to be installed from the back side so it doesn't pull through the block. The issue is how to adhere the block to the gel coated inside flat wall of the Fiberglass body/tub. Should the block be laminated all over first outside of the Jeep and then glassed in after the fact? Or should I Just adhere the bare block some how to the fiberglass tub and then encase and glass it over? Essentially I need to add a block to the side of the tub containing a nutsert. I'm just unsure how to bond it permanently to the tub and encase it so it doesn't rot or pull off the tub. The wall is flat where it needs to attach and has a gelcoat. Long winded sorry about that just trying to explain what I am doing. Any Ideas on how to get it on there permanently ?
+Deezildennis I think I understand what you are wanting to do. You might look at McMaster-Carr and see if they have a composite block you can purchase, they have numerous materials available in various sizes. If they have something that would be great because it would be weather proof already. I would use a Versa-Chem product #47809 to attach it to the gel coated side, just rough up the surface of each to attach it. We use this in secondary bonding of some of our accessories and it is very strong and bonds numerous materials together. You can get online or thru local Orielly or auto parts store. If you cannot find any, we can help you out. If you need more help or have any questions, please email direct at fourriversboats@gmail.com and can call you if need to. Here is a link to mcmaster-carr's website on fiberglass products available. www.mcmaster.com/#fiberglass/=12cwj4e
Good information video. What is the ratio in Milli liter for resin & MEKP working in 30 degree centigrade room temperature for getting 10 to 20 minutes working time?
Late comment but holy gosh, I thought he was going to put gloves on when he started cutting the corners... Nope just puts acetone on his hands instead.
If I wanted to use the board as a mold that I would remove, and leave a 2.5 inch wet edge. Turtle cover. Could I wrap the board in wax paper so I could release it from the glass? Thank you
this is a very good, detailed video. thanks for it! i have a question. if your doing multiple layers, do you let it dry between each layer? do you sand after drying and before 2nd layer?
jesse hernandez Thanks and glad you liked the video and hope it helps you. You can do several layers at a time, but depending on your experience, you might want to roll each layer before applying another. As long as it does not set up on you while you are working on it you should be fine. I would not go over 2 or 3 layers and that depends on the fiberglass material you use. Please keep in mind, the thicker the material the quicker it will set up because of the thickness mass. Or you can allow it to dry in between each layer, if you do it that way, you just need to use sandpaper to knock down any fiberglass burrs that will prevent the next layer from laying down flat. If you have anything sticking up, it will create an air bubble in the next layer. I usually use 36 grit and quickly go over the entire part and then run my hand over it just to make sure. If it feels smooth and no prickly fiberglass strands sticking up, then you are good to go. Just make sure and blow off all the sanding dust. YOU DO NOT NEED TO TOTALLY SAND THE LAYER SMOOTH, JUST KNOCK DOWN THE BURRS. This is not like sanding primer to apply paint, Just knock down the burrs is all that is needed. If you do this within a day or 2 of the applying the layer you are going over, you are fine. If you wait a month or so, then might be better to do more sanding to make sure to break open that surface to get the bond. If you waited longer, it might be a good idea after sanding to take Acetone and wipe the layer you are going over down to "open" it back up and allow the new resin to get a better bite. When you do this, the layer will feel sticky again allowing a good bond.
I'm fixing to lay some epoxy and fiberglass mat over a sheet of plywood. Will 1:1 mix ratio epoxy resin do the same job as a 2:1 mix ration epoxy will do??
NEVER lay cloth over any RAW wooden panel until you fill the pores in the wood with the resin mixed with the catalyst until it won't absorb anymore. THEN you sand and prep the platform for cloth or mat lamination so the board don't pull the resin material from the cloth!
i want to reinforce a repair I did on a fender with bondo. . its around 23"x23" . I would like to lay some cloth fiberglass over it then a thin layer of bondo over the fiberglass because it is easer to finish. and sand. Will the fiberglass bond to the body filler and what grit of sand paper would you recommend to sand the bondo before I lay the glass. also cloth are matt are both.
How thick is the bondo? Why does it need to be reinforced? If you want to reinforce it because of amount of material, probably wrong approach. But to answer your question. I usually go either 36 or 80 grit, either is fine. either material is fine. cloth or mat, just rollout out as smooth as possible so it will take less bonds.
I am building a diving board: -The Base is made of Maple and Douglas Fir Ply wood, 4 sheets thick glued together. Dimensions are 2''x1',4''X14' -I am planing on applying mat fiberglass to the finished product to add strength and protect the board from the elements. Would Mat Fiber glass be ideal for this application if not, please let me know which type of fiberglass you would Recommend.
I would contact these people and ask their opinion. I have a lot of years experience but not in the application y ou are getting ready to do. www.fibreglast.com
They are usually ok, problem I have seen is they do not sell much of this product very fast, so it does have a shelf life, usually 90 days. After that, can start to thicken up and be harder to work with.
When it comes to Bondo fiberglass and resin, I want to cover the top side of my boat, metal flake paint, with a new layer of fiberglass and then repaint it. Will the Bondo brand work for this?
Good point, As long as you allow it to evaporate thoroughly. I do wipe with acetone on other materials but never do with wood, just blow it off really well and allow the resin to soak into the wood.
@@fourriversboats in lamination we just use the catalyst with red I think it's a safety thing but gel coat uses the clear stuff. One time a new guy dumped the clear stuff into the tank for the chop gun and we thought our pump was broke
@@justinwatts6210 oh wow, I had a guy mix up 2 quarts of gel-coat and pour what was left over back into the drum. We just let it set for a day with out mixing it and went ahead and used the drum. The catalyzed material just set up inside without setting up anything else. Crazy
@@fourriversboats we had a guy pour a whole gallon of catalyst into a barrel of the black gel coat with the wax in it and mixed it he got fired after they found out
You will need to make sure there is tapper on your box. Larger size at the top, small size at bottom of box so it will slide off. Approx 1/8" per foot. If it is perfectly square AND NO TAPER, WILL NOT COME OFF WITHOUT A TERRIBLE FIGHT, or you can tear apart box from inside your fiberglass part if you really need it square. You will need to coat the plywood box with paint, resin or something that will get hard. Once that is cured, you will need to apply several coats of wax, then a coat of PVA (Poly Vinyl Alcohol)and let that dry. Then you can apply gel-coat or just apply resin and glass as in video and roll it out and once it is cured, you can demold it.
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R1.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xfiberglass+roll.TRS0&_nkw=fiberglass+roller&_sacat=0 There is a link to ebay and am sure Amazon sells some also.
Safety Snmafety I guess. The catalyst for polyester resin is often organic peroxide that will burn the shit out of your skin. Always wear goggles and gloves.
hello ! can you tel me what 's the difference between wool and fiber glass and their dangerosity , cause my eyes was exposed to one of them (i don"t know yet) !! thank you
+amine YG You would need to look at an Material Safety Data Sheet on them if available. There are so many different varieties of products, hard to say. What do you mean your eyes were exposed? Did you get materials in your eyes? Or did they just get irritated? Honestly, never used wool or ever hear of anybody using wool in fiberglass and I have been in it since 1982.
@@fourriversboats I'm new at this but I think i know what could have cause the mat to pull up, i didn't wet the plywood surface with resin i just laying the mat on top of the plywood and then brushed resin on top then i rolled it with the bubble roller.
Hi! I am just interested if I could use lacquer instead of those resins to make fiberglass strong If I can't , tell me the base materials I should use :D
this method is very likely to de-laminate depending on it's final use, 50/50 acetone n GP resin one coat on marine grade plywood was stress tested by my company with 2 layer's of 3oz strand build up. and let cure for 33 days @ minus 10 to 115 degrees F, when pulled apart the the structural plywood 2 of 7 layers came with the glass.
+Jason Wade For our application, we want strength and not much added weight. The fleece is a thicker material and will take more resin to saturate it which equals more weight and not sure how much strength. The fiberglass is woven together with fibers over laying each other which also gives more strength. The fleece would work great for speaker boxes or very odd shapes which would allow you to stretch over and then apply the resin.
So... just a question. You start by saying 10cc per qt is 1% which, if you figure a qt is around 1000cc that makes sense. You go on to say 20cc is 2% so we're all good so far. You say you don't want to go too far over 2% and then you add 20cc to a half a qt thereby making a 4% mix. Did I miss something?
It will not hurt to go over the 2%, most machines we use in the shop go up to 4%. The issue is the higher the %, the quicker the cure. I do not know everybody level of experience or size of part they are working on. Would hate to tell someone 4% and then they loose the part because it starts to cure before they finish. Since this was just a demonstration and a small part, I was confident I would finish before it started to set up.
Other people are saying awesome, and I’m sure they right. Sorry just couldn’t stop laughing at your start Mdf plywood...... lol. I know you didn’t mean it but, it’s the kinda think I’d do the same and made my hysterical. Thx for the laugh. 😀🤙
Not sure what you are meaning, but glad it gave you a laugh. We used MDF which is Medium Density Fiberboard, which is a form of Plywood, I am assuming, if I am incorrect, oh well. The focus was more of the fiberglass technic, not a plywood tutorial. Have a great one.
At the End of the Day...The results Will and Must be determined by; The vessel's performance. What we all watched, was 18 minutes of endless measurements and calculations and structural "Modifications" to an object that was "designed specifically" to accommodate engine to transom. If the bracket makes for easier access to Fishing which is usually performed at Zero or low speeds, or provides More Room for your Catch, that's a plus? But a "Boston Whaler or deep V hull" is primarily used and designed for Heavy Water, then it is not a fishing boat. Most boats, are designed for getting to point "B". Hull to Water stability and fuel consumption, handling are primary factors. I'd like to see the video of this configuration at various stages of throttle, docking and high speed turning, response at the helm etc. In essence; an "in the Water" audit or test, would substantially prove whether or not the Modifications were viable. Not to be difficult but certainly objective.
I see a lot of videos where people apply polyester or epoxy with a brush. I understand that for small parts and for hard-to-reach places it is convenient. But when they try to impregnate fiberglass with a brush, even as large as yours, it seems to me inconvenient and slow. Especially when you have to work with large quantities, why not use a roller to apply polyester? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EMtnT_7w4fE.html
