The temperature you see on the gauge is the coolant temperature, what is more important is the oil temperature, which takes about twice as long to get up to temp as the coolant, so dont go by the temperature gauge as to how warm the engine is.
15 minutes after smoothly driving at the recommended coolant temp may help. Yeah, it is good to wait another 15 minutes after the temp is at the desired temp before pushing the car a bit harder :D
Today I went to test from 0 to 100 with my own Lexus IS 250 model year 2007. It is not known exactly which tuning parts are installed in the engine room. A GPS Race Timer was used. I accelerated 0 to 100 according to your instructions and the result was 6,501 seconds 😁
@@KontrolledKaoz It was in Cruise Control when it happend. I believe it was just her time. Frequent oil changes with Castrol GTX High Mileage oil & Wix oil Filters
@@jamesaxelson917 I’m planning to do my first race with some homies, so I should leave it on 4th gear and it woudlnt do no harm? My Lexus GS 350 has 160k miles with 18.2 mpg average
I'm running spherical rod ends and coil-overs on my IS250's suspension, stock motor and automatic, I'd worry about trans temperature if anything, but an automatic at 160k (depending on how often fluid was changed) is going to be a little tired. Even staying in 4th gear, the torque converter is un-locked and is creating most of the heat in the transmission. I would monitor fluid temperature, extended periods over 220 degrees F is as much as id be comfortable with on a track.
@@senorbonbon a little late but do what you want. I redline my 250 and take it on back roads for 15 mins straight completely stock takes it like a champ
I've been having some issues with my Lexus IS250 06. I'm able to launch thanks to you! But my transmission is almost... laggy? It feels like it takes 0.5-1 seconds to shift gears sometimes. It's not really able to hit high RPM either without a smell occuring 🤷 I should mention it has 160K miles, transmission fluid probably never changed before I owned it. I also haven't changed it yet
Well Lexus IS is more of a compact sedan so make sure you sit and try to find a comfortable position, also look for Lexus IS's without sunroof because sunroof it takes a bit of headroom. If you ask me I don't think you will be comfortable but without sunroof maybe. Again its something you have to try
@@warmthboy Thank you for your help. I have considered the GS 300 but It just looked a bit too ugly for me... I have also considered searching for Honda Accord 2.4 VTEC from 2002-2007.
Its not a proper launch if you didn’t hold the rev and the break for at least 2 sec and 2000 rpm is good not risky like 3 or 4 and 1.500 is low for a launch its either 2 or 2.5 or near the 3
I said in the video that just because for me 1500rpm is best, doesnt mean you guys should too, depends on temperature outside, quality of the road and tires. In my test the road was dusty so tires where more prone to slip hence why I did it at 1500rpm, tried 2500rpm but huge wheelspin.
@@VuckoHD This is not called launch control. It's called brake boosting, although it's not very effective on a NA car. The car will limit revs to 2500 rpm because that's the limits of your braking system before it loses friction and you start moving. As you have bigger brakes with more friction, the revs will go down. Also holding revs instead of letting go while the rpm are climbing like you did, will not give you any benefits at all, or at least very little. By holding the rpms, you allow the suspension to compress and give you a better launch. The reason why you're spinning at 2500rpm is because you probably don't let the car suspension settle, and you have probably crappy tires. I have 500 treadwear tires and I don't spin (even on dusty streets where half of it is sand) unless I do some stupid shit such as pulling a u-turn at full throttle.
@@TienTran-kw3il Where did I say I'm using 'Launch control'? I didn't mention that at all but just showed how to launch an automatic car at higher revs, not 'brake boosting' like you said. Also I get what you mean by holding the revs and then let go but my launch was done at such low rpm and cars suspenssion is tight enough that you can see my car launch wasn't unsettled...it hooked up
@@mls.design some people prefer this method because they believe building boost and then full accelerating give you a better launch than only brake then release and accelerate
I wouldn't use the term "proper way to do it", since you're loading up your drivetrain while the brakes are keeping the car still which isn't really proper. All that strain is still going through your drivetrain and can damage it pretty severely over time...
@@TienTran-kw3il Negative. brakes aren't harmed while doing this because it's just a hydraulic clamp. Unless you're doing a brake stand (ie Burnout) and you're spinning the back wheels while the brakes are applied, then yes it would damage the brakes. What this does is lock the wheels, all the slop from the drivetrain is tightened up and the regular old auto transmission starts slipping itself. All the tension is still inside the drivetrain putting pressure on everything. Don't get me wrong, I do this shit too, and it's not like it will break the car right away. But it's definitely not proper. Either buy a car that has a dedicated launch control or get a manual if you want to be launching you're family sedan all the time.
They’re kinda slow to be honest 😂 great reliability and fun cars tho. My Lexus IS is tuned and I get like 22 miles per gallon with the way I drive, but if I drive like a sane person it’ll be like 26 mpg
Wait hang on.. I have an is250 as well, but I'm curious as I've never actually put it in S AND turned the ECT PWR mode on. Is this why your car " Auto shifts " at high RPMs even though it's displaying What I thought was 4th gear..? I've definitely changed it to S mode, but I usually end up using the paddle shifters to go up or down from 4th. But the gear changes on the display. HAVE I BEEN DOIING THIS WRONG ALL THIS TIME?
Nah fam I got one too and it’s just ecu programming likely to keep the trans from any possible damage. I do the same thing I use the paddles cause it doesn’t seem to hold the gears long enough even in sport and with ect
I found out it’s a gear limiter, not shifter- so if you put it on three at a light and hun it it will go to almost redline but once at third gear it won’t upshift
so ur telling me i can just throw it in sports mode put it on 6th gear and the car will automaticlly go up and down on gears? So Like if sports mode was just a button?
Zdravo, ranije sam ti pisao za mišljenje vezano za is250 i na kraju sam ga kupio moj je 2010 godište luxury multimedia i imam ga oko godinu dana i stvarno sam prezadovoljan ali u zadnje vrijeme malko osjetim kad je motor hladan malo grublje saltanje između prve i druge brzine kao i kad je u četvrtoj pa mi zanima pošto vidim koliko km tvoj ima da li si imao ikakvih problema sa mjenjačem i da li si mjenjao ulje
Yes, they use a very soft front lower control arm bushing which is good for comfort but it does make the front tires wear hard. I've replaced the whole front end and partial rear end with spherical bearings for track use and it's not really a problem now, wouldn't recommend this for a daily though.
Yeah it’s like a warning light you can set it from 0-100mph idk how many kph but there is a red light that comes on at 100 mph and I don’t believe you can adjust that one the orange one you adjust with the button on the left of steering column that says set and has two arrows pointing left and right
If you would have said the 200t was better I don’t think you would have gotten as much crap as you did lmao. I actually don’t recommend the 250 at all 🤣. There’s a reason they came out with the 200t anyway
Bruh come on. 1,500rpm? Realistically it's best if you can time it at 2-2,200 rpm. At least in the 350. With my 285 summer tires I can push 3k and barely get wheel spin.
Exactly my point in the video...I said in the video that just because for me 1500rpm is best, doesnt mean you guys should too, depends on temperature outside, quality of the road and tires. In my test the road was dusty so tires where more prone to slip hence why I did it at 1500rpm, tried 2500rpm but huge wheelspin.
Depends on your tires and road conditions. Got decent tires that are heated in dry conditions? Dump the traction. Got worn out tires or wet conditions? Use traction