Brilliant work mate 👌🏻 , all the advise I can give u is set up your 2 slabs on each ends and run a string line between the 2 slabs go down a lot quicker, and the string lines determines the level and the line off the slabs 👍love watching the videos
Little tip when cutting, piece of 2 x 1 timber placed on the slab, stops the water running all down u or soaking your feet n keeps ur gloves dry. Nice work.
@@brickrightbuildinglandscaping Is that because you use a full bed of cement therefore the weeds wont be able to get through that? Thanks for your reply much appreciated 😎
Great job lads, a question if I may, did you form the steps first then dress/adhere the slabs onto the risers? If so what did you use, the same bedding mix or an external tile adhesive? Cheers
What do you mean by half bond ? and why didn’t you work from the step out instead of working yourself into a tight space ? just curious never done porcelain slabs so learning on here
Hi Adam Half bond is like brickwork 🧱 .we started that side because we worked to a line to create the falls on the patio then once we had that we just levelled out each row from that striking point. Those tiles set then we filled into the opposite corner so was carried out that way for those reasons. Always hard on a text to explain. Hope it helps Justin
I run a building company in London, and lately we’ve been asked to do a lot of landscaping projects, so I’ve been looking for some ideas and tricks to help me price the projects better. I’ve been looking to buy a wet cutter and I love that new saw you have, I think I’ll get myself one like that too. Great video great work, neat 👍
Deffo a good saw think rubi are bringing out a new saw soon so me be worth waiting for thet or look into the raymondi Zoe that one has a big motor than my my rubi saw. Good luck Justin 👍
Hya No its not bitumen and i personally wouldn't use that on the back of porcelain. Go to the builders merchant and ask for paving slurry and tell them what its for to ensure you have the correct product. Good luck Justin 👍
Great job guys really looks good Have a question for you wondering what advice you have for me thinking of having a driveway done with very similar as what you have just done on this job but I live on a hill with a 200mm fall from left to right and front to back if I have it installed with the 200mm fall left to right it will in my opinion look terrible with a level door step and under the level side gate Any way to make it look better to the eye?
Thanks for the comments. Be careful on a drive laying 20mm porcelain you'd have to really add a different base to reinforced concrete.As for the falls difficult to say as i haven't seen it but u could put all on the low end left to right and raise the levels behind the wall so its level across the house .not sure without seeing it if that works . Good luck Justin 👍
@@brickrightbuildinglandscaping thanks for the reply yeah I will be installing a 150mm reinforced concrete base first so with a 30mm bed plus the 20mm slab it will be 200mm in total so hopefully that’s strong enough my driveway is a 8m by 8m square if I build up level left to right I will have a 200mm ramp up on one side can’t think of any other way though
@titanium_tel All sounds good. You just have to come up with a design like we did on this job to account for the different levels.we used wall and steps to get the levels rights but also to connect those areas outside of the driveway in a usable way that looks nice and works practically. Hope that helps . Sounds like its gonna be a nice job 👌
This job was are first time installing porcelain. We bought it brand new for this job . You can cut porcelain with disc cutters of various sizes with a porcelain blade 👌🧱🧱👌👍
Hi sam Yes its a very good machine cuts a beautiful straight line .my only not bad points but things to improve on but im being picky is the motor could be quicker and the legs could be designed better .id by it again sam .rubi have just brought out a new model to replace mine with some upgrades to improve an already good machine. Worth also looking at the zoe saw from Raymondi i think it is .will do a full review on my next porcelain job in a few weeks .Hope that helps you mate Justin 👍
im doing my own atm , got the MOT down and im laying porcelain slabs 600 x 600 , im getting a bit paranoid about my falls , im falling away from the house 20 ft (about 6 meters) into an Aco drain , im getting conflicting opinions about how much fall I need , ive been advised everything from 6 to 2 inch , also when you start laying do you lay from the lowest point of the fall back up to the highest ? , if you could offer any advice I would appreciate it
Hi stun 10mm of fall to every 1m so 6m would be 60mm of fall thats what we go for any more fine .i like laying from the highest point to the lowest but the site conditions dictate a lot to answer that .set both ends of the paving and set a line up lay to that and then level left to right from that. Hope you understand that and it helps . Good luck with it all. If in doubt with the falls phone the manufacturer and ask what they advise . Justin 👍
Brilliant work lads , on the cutter , do you think maybe cutting in on either end as bradd did all the way down and then cutting through partially bit by bit as you go, and when your on last few millimetres before it's fully cut , go from one end and cut as deep as you can , hard to explain , but hope you get the gyst
My mates asked me to do a little patio for him .. I won’t be buying a nice bench saw like that .. is a sthilsaw with the right blade easy to cut em bearing in mind I am the sthilsaw wizard?
Great video and job does anyone have any experience laying with packs of 295mm x 295mm, 295mm x 600mm, 600mm x 600mm, and 900mm x 600mm, and getting the right joint widths?
Thanks Rick If you use rectified porcelain and spacers and you work to 90 degrees in setting out the paving you be fine .if the porcelain isn't rectified thats where you may fine a discrepancy in the joints. Good luck Justin 👍
Not easier to use spaces for joint like 5mm 3mm whatever? And if u put slab close one next another one before u put spacer pull slab and if it's wet slab slab gonna go back to old position until space gonna stop it and leave exactly same joints?
If you want to use spacers fine no issue these tiles have a concave edge so not straight so it suited the joint perfectly so lay em tight which left a perfect joint hence no spacer but I'd normally use a spacer onnormal porcelain tiles yes . Justin 👍
Hi stephen Not easy mate. Mark your square on the tile . Use the relevant cutting and blade to mark out the outside edge then cut corner to corner from the inside out all the way through the tile may have to turn it over depending on size of the square. Gently knock out the triangle cuts you have created. Then with the mini disc cutter tidy the cut up. Can also sand it done to refine the edge if need be . Not easy hope that makes sense . Good luck Justin 👍
Don’t really see the point of scoring the tile with a first cut - once that’s been done you can’t change anything just make sure and doubly make you have marked and placed the tile correctly. Cut in 2 passes only 10 mm deep and then though.
@@brickrightbuildinglandscaping just ordinary tile cement not fast set , it certainly won’t delaminate although costs are a bit higher and time consuming it’s better than going back when delamination has happened 👍
@@brickrightbuildinglandscaping Ratio: 1 part water to 1 part cement, mix thoroughly (add extra cement for required consistency), nothing easier or cheaper. Labourer could've made that while he waited for kettle to boil. Lol
Look a nice job 👍 old stone mason why you wasting your money on priming slurry👎 you got a nock-up cement with water and spr make it creamy I just have a pedal with a cordless drill keep knocked up 👍 you're upstands underneath the steps you all way put the upstairs on top of the steps it a much better job Plus water flow down the steps and rises 👍 and don't you use spaces 🤔
