Get Your Spatial Audio Calibration Toolkit Today and Stay Tuned! SpatialCD.com Join the SACT Owner's Discord Group for Tips, Tricks, & Advice: discord.gg/exSvPERuQK SACT Tutorials Playlist: ru-vid.com/group/PLLo6DbkjBoKbmccA7sKPGLci1SCM_unYW Disclosure: The Affiliate links above earn me a commission if you purchase using those links. This is at no additional cost to you. I am a co-owner of the Spatial Audio Calibration Toolkit.
The way you are doing it here, you can do it on top of your Room EQ, just make sure to disable any DSP adjustments like Dynamic EQ, Dynamic Volume or other Dynamic Range Compression or LFE containment, Cinema EQ etc. That way everything coming from the speakers is the same SPL.
To point out: This test tones is a Dolby Atmos signal (@-20dBFS) in contrary to internal AVR tones (@-30dBFS without Dolby decoding). Signal @-20dBFS should produce 85dB SPL with C weighting in room. Signal @-30dBFS should produce 75dB SPL with C weighting in room. During level calibration, some AVR manufacturers set the master volume to -10 so you can read 65dB SPL C weighting for a more pleasant loudness level during tests. By increasing master volume to 0, you will return to 75dB SPL C weighting. In contrary to AVR tones, Dolby Dialog Normalization feature impacts greatly the level results when you use Audio Calibration Tool kit (because it is Dolby Atmos encoded). With master volume set at 0 and dialog normalization OFF, you should read 85dB SPL for front speakers, 82dB SPL for all surrounds speakers and 95dB SPL for LFE. These are very loud levels. For people who owned an AVR which is able to lower the input volume, you can decrease by 10dB so the input signal is now -30dBFS (for a 75dB SPL target). After levels are done, do not forget to come back at 0db on the input). When Dolby Dialog Normalization is ON, you should read 75dB SPL for ALL speakers and 85dB SPL for LFE. Except if you own a real theater (I mean in term of space volume) you should be like 95% of people who own a normal space volume (dedicated room or living room with a ceiling height under 9ft). So loudness perception is different in your living room compare to commercial theaters. Dialog Normalization should always be ON! Of course, with internal test tones in AVR, dialog normalization has no effect during level calibration. And in this case, target should be 75dB SPL C weighting for all speakers (including subwoofer).
Guys, I just finished level-matching rom your disc. I had made ja few attempts before and thought I got it right, but I just watched this clip again and followed the instructions and the difference is remarkable! I feel truly a part of the action. The spatial elements that you have unlocked are astounding. This disc is definitely worth the price! Thanks, guys, I’m going to keep watching for further tips!
My copy of the bluray arrived today! Can't wait to get stuck into this!! 😁 Will have to wait til the weekend though, cos of work, frustratingly...🙄 I had a quick look at lunchtime - loving the set up, very comprehensive! Thank you for doing this for us!! 😊👍
@@TechnoDad Absolutely! 😊 I may be back with questions...! 😂 (Although I'm guessing that your videos outlining how to use your calibration tools will mean that won't be necessary...)
I played around with the Level Match a few times just today not knowing you made a video on how to Level Match, I almost exactly did what you did in the video with the exception of turning the volume up to 0 reference before starting, thanks for the video and looking forward to the next one
With my yamaha 2080 I was able to put the calibrated speaker level settings on screen without having to run Yamaha test tones. I then ran the Spatial level match test tone under this and I was able to change each speaker level to the front left amount as the spatial test tones moved from speaker to speaker.I did have to hold the radio shack sound pressure meter in my hand while I sat in MLP. changing levels with yamaha remote but I had it pointing up. I could try it with tripod but I figure I will be sitting in chair when I listen to content so it's either me or tripod in chair and it was easier with me sitting there. LOL. Results were game changer so it must have worked
@@TechnoDad Hoping my disk arrives any day now, and I can run it through my system soon. Please create more of these videos to make it easier for users to use the disk and understand how to calibrate their systems. - Cheers!
With Denon, if Dynamic EQ and Dynami Vol is on, it will mess up the calibration depending on the content. Your Atmos calibration will no be valid for DD or DTS:X, unless you turn dynamic EQ/Vol off for good.
I don't recommend using DynamicEQ on Denon or Marantz because I'm doubtful that it knows the input source volume of the content. If you've ever played videos on RU-vid and then switched to Disney Plus, you'll notice a huge difference in volume. The AVR typically just knows what the volume is set to on their end and adjusts the EQ dynamically based on that. That's in addition to the fact that I don't like the effect on the sound quality. Dynamic Volume has its use case a loudness compressor if the environment is loud, but both should definitely be off when using the SACT to calibrate.
How is this a better way to tune rather than the built in tone on your AVR. I'm pretty sure my thx certified rz50 test tones are just as accurate as to use vs an external cd tones
The built-in tones in your AVR typically bypass any equalization done by the system (Audyssey, Dirac, etc.). The only way to check post-EQ level-matching is with external tones. Dolby had wideband tones on their demo discs, but this is the first product that offers external tones that are band-limited for proper matching per Dolby's guidelines.
I did this today with the disc but I had to turn the levels way down from what the avr 3700h did with audessey. When I played the test tone from the avr it was a lot lower volume than what the disc played. Is that right?
How are you setting your levels (-0.5 etc) for each speaker as I can’t see where it is on your tv before you put it in the AVR test tone section. Are you just using your Denon remote volume to do this? I can see volume changing on bottom of my tv screen and putting that level in. On my Denon 4500 when I mute the test tones screen it immediately returns to test tone box, so I can’t see levels like you at same time. So I write down the values and then put in AVR test tone section.
if you calibrate at -20dB MV, then the sound volume would be equally loud at -40dB MV after calibration. If you want a calibration at -20dB MV to be equally loud as before the calibration, you have to set the speaker level meter at 105dB, and running pink noise at 105dB is just ... crazy
The lfe channel is always 10db louder than the mains, something to do with decoding. Im not sure the section on lfe volume is correct here. Example, if i let my Anthem do the auto setup and then play my Disney WOW disc test tones the lfe is as it should be correctly set at 85db.
Yeah, it’s funny. My surround speakers go down to 85Hz but there’s plenty of sound at 80Hz. Maybe they were being easy on the specs? I know there’s a natural roll-off but it’s great to actually be able to hear these things.
@TechnoDad Thanks for creating this tool and I have hard lots of praise about it. Unfortunately, it is very hard for us Canadians to order the disk due to import duties etc. It will be great if you guys can arrange shipment of these disks from within Canada.
Thanks for the Video, Tehcno Dad. After watching this and the Cross-Over video I was able to figure out how to actually set the Levels in Setup while (nearly) simultaneously using the disc. Big Difference over the Denon Pink Noise. With my setup I wasn't able to use Reference Volume (80 / 0.0db), as the SPL from the disc was still too high even when L R channels are reduced to -12db, so I used Volume 70, (-10.0db), as this is where we seldom get to even during a great movie. I was also able to better set all speaker cross-overs, 60 front stage and 80 surround with 90 over head, I was always a little skeptical of the all channels 80hz mantra, so this was a big help. My system is Denon 6700 (2022 model) with Klipsch Super Heresy 2.0 fronts, 504c Center, s-3 surrounds and cdt 5800ii ceilings for 7.1.4, and an Emotiva xpa-3 for the front. Sounds even better now. Thanks again..
I have a question about the tool kit, since I've had it I've sorta went through it but haven't actually applied it yet, my question is, do I have to apply all of it or do I use the sections that helps my system best?
He used 0 aka Reference in Denon/Marantz processors. It is important to note the db level that your AVR/AVP performs calibration/room correction because 0 db is not equal across all brands. For instance, Anthem at 0 db is well beyond Reference.
Can you please how do switch so fast between AV menu and blu-ray? How do you find the crossfade for speakers? Do you need to write on paper like and then modify the values in AV? Can you make a full video from beginning how to use the disc,. please? Best regards, Alex
Hi Alex, I just muted the AVR when I went into the internal AVR test tones. You can write down how much you need to go up or down. There are sections in the disc that are straight forward, and a 22 page guide on how to use the disc as well - spatialcd.com/
When using our toolkit, you can set the main volume to 0.0 dB and level match to 75 dB, but that could be loud. So it depends on your space and how loud you play your system. Some have set -10 dB to 75 so they know that 0.0 is 85 dB, which is reference level. That is VERY loud. You have some options.
Great video and will order the disc. One question. I have a 7.2.4 using Anthem MRX-1120. I don't have independent sub outputs. Should I level match the subs one at a time or both at once?
Can anybody please help Me, I have a denon amplifier DRA 800H, and I have Bose freespace 51 speakers, I can't get it to play, the speakers have no sound, did I connect it to the wrong clips at the back of the amp? Please help 🙏
How are folks setting their speakers to 0 trim level and master volume to 0 as well? I was barely at -5mv and readings on my speakers were closer to 85db and I just could not crank it any more. I have JTR 212 RTs. I can do it using REW as I offset the REW level to -30 DBFS. Not sure how @TechnoDad was only getting 75db with all trims and MV at 0. Must be less efficient speakers than mine?
OH yeah...your speakers are MUCH more sensitive than mine. You really have to tailor the levels to your space and your speakers. Even things like sitting distance effects the loudness at the MLP.
Hey Channa, I purchased the Spatial audio toolkit and I am following your steps. I'm using REW spl with the umik1. I've Set vol to reference level and played the tool kit level matching. The levels are still way to high at - 12db still sitting up at 80 plus dB. I have no more head room to get to 75db for any of my speakers. When I use Denon tone it's fine but the tool kit is very loud can't figure it out why is this so??? Please help! Cheers Ned
Hi Ned! By all means, turn it down!! I would set MV to (-10 db) and try to get 75dB at Main Listening Position. If still too loud, drop Main Volume to (-20) to get 75 dB at MLP, or try to get 65dB at MLP with MV at (-10). You have to tailor these numbers to your space. Have you joined the owners discord?
@@TechnoDad Hi Channa thank you mate for taking the time to reply. I did what you said it's GREAT Love the Spatial cd such an effect tool. Have you tried the OCA script called Audessy One? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iU1ZBsru76M.htmlsi=ni5XAkliF0sEXB47 For my Setup and many many.... It's turned my theatre into an IMAX THEATRE the Sound experience is nothing like I've experienced in 2yrs and I have a 13.2.5 Setup... Funny I thought I had good sound until 😊👌 A1 ... If your curious enough give it a GO you won't be disappointed! 👊😎👌 Oh look up ALEX K his a DJ here in Australia.... Wicked!
@nedkulic2164, I had the EXACT same problem (with same other details too). Thank you for asking this question! @@TechnoDad thank YOU for so much for responding and helping out! And thanks for a great product. I'm using the downloaded files for now, while I wait for the disc version. Making my way thru the basic (non red) stuff, but will probably venture into those instructions, too. Haha. I'm really contemplating pulling the trigger on the True Target app, too. We'll see. Thanks again!
@@HartSystemsBookkeeping Don't forget to join the Discord community. There are a lot of owners that are glad to answer questions about the toolkit and Magic Beans as well!
getting ready to buy the cal disk. got a 5.1.4 setup. question: my rear height are in ceiling just aft of listing position, about 2 ft from rear wall. should they be set to middle or back height?
thank you. i did do that. plus i raised the height of my cc speaker from floor level to just under the tv. the audio is unbelievable compared to what it was before. i dont see how i can make any more physical speaker changes, so i am really looking forward to getting the cal disk and maxing out my audio performance.
There are a few things that this disc can do. It can help you determine if Audyssey did the right things with your setup. I think the 8805 has two presets. You could do a full calibration on Preset 2 and see if it sounds better to you than Audyssey. My manual calibration sounds a lot better than what Audyssey did - spatialcd.com/
Going to order today, but quick question. I'm definitely getting the blu-ray version, but is there an advantage of also getting the digital download? Thanks in advance.
Hi! I don’t really think you would need both. The physical disc has a menu and it’s easier to navigate. I have a coupon code that’s still active - CES15 for 15% off
Technodad I recently did the level matching and it didn’t turn out the way I expected. I used REW SPL meter with UMK1. All my filters were off like loudness and dynamic EQ. For example all the front channel were -12 DB but when watching a movie my volume would have to go to reference level is this unusual?
Are you using the same source? Like if you used the Blu-ray to calibrate, did you watch content with a Blu-ray on the same player? Or use something like a streaming box and play content from there? Also, did you properly calibrate your umk1 with rew? If all that is correct, drop your main volume -10 less than your "reference" level. That way when you play content and go to ref level on receiver you will have that increase.....as he stated in this video
@@estsansa25 Hi! The previous commenter never got in touch with me. Please email me at our Customer Service email and send me some pictures of your setup screens so I can see what needs to be done - SpatialGroupCS@gmail.com
Because you will be getting an incorrect reading. When Audyssey is doing level matching, it only listens to the same band we have limited to. Your crossovers for your plannars are not going to be an issue
I want to ask you something very important to me. I have the Sony ubp x800m2 player and the Samsung qn85b that comes with dolby atmos but when I put the player directly to the TV it doesn't give me dolby atmos it only give 5.1 sorround even tho the receiver said dolby atmos when I play a dolby atmos movie. But when the display button in the player it said that is out putting 5.1 channel but when I put it through the receiver it said 7.1 thrue hd dolby atmos. So is my player plays dolby atmos content and my tv has dolby atmos how come it only give me 5.1 only. Can you answer that. If is something in the setting of the TV or what because I have the dolby atmos on on my tv. Thanks in advance.
I had this problem at first too. I realized that my Zone 2 was on and set to Source and the Zone 2 receiver is not configured for Atmos. After I turned both Zones off, I got the Atmos on the x800 Ultra player..
Channa, (or anyone) I deleted my original post because i may have done the level matching incorrectly using a -40 db level on my AVR and a 64db target on the speakers. With my Denon x3800 my listening levels for Atmos tracks usually run from -35 to maybe -28 dbs. and DTS tracks run anywhere from maybe -40 to -32 dbs. If I'm understanding this correctly should set the Denon's level to 0 and aim for around 75 dbs for the speakers (5.1.4 with front/rear Prime Elevation heights) regardless of what levels I actually listen to? How much lower can the AVR volume be when you're running the test to get that 75db speaker level and still get a valid result? Thanks.
Yes! This is correct. You are setting the "reference level" to be '0' on your Main Volume. Even if you don't listen at that volume, you know that reference is at 0. However, if you are aiming for 75 db and it's still too loud at your MLP, then by all means, turn the Main Volume to -10 and aim for 75 db...or, Main Volume at 0 and aim for 65 db.
I'll try all three options beginning with 0/75 (probably wearing ear plugs) and then run the race scene in Ready, Player One at my usual Atmos/DTS listening levels to see which one suits me best, doesn't make my walls collapse or gets me visits from neighbors with pitchforks 😱. Thanks Channa!
@@vla220474 no, unfortunately, the digital does not work on the Panasonic players. However, our physical blu ray does - spatialcd.com/products/spatial-audio-calibration-toolkit-disc
If I calibrate to 75.0 dB at 0.0 dB on the AVR but listen at around -32.5 dB how does this work? Yes, all of the speaker should still be matched in overall volume even at lower listening levels but why pick 0 dB to calibrate at?
0 dB is supposed to be reference. So technically, you can calibrate to -10 or whatever you like. I only use the dB volume scale for calibration and change back to standard 0 - 98 scale. That way I can tell the wife and kid to stay between 65 - 72.
@@TechnoDad Got a chance to have the house to myself last night so I ran the calibration with my hearing protection on. Had to turn all of my speakers, including my sub, down and some of them a pretty considerable amount. Is it safe to drive speakers when the AVR is driving them -6.5dB? That isn’t going to cause any issues with under powering them at even lower listening volumes?
Unless you are using DynamicEQ (which I don't recommend personally) the relative levels between speakers should stay the same at 0dB, -10dB, -20dB, -40dB etc. The main thing to consider is just to get enough volume to overcome your noise floor. If you have AC or street noise, you'll get more accurate measurements if you turn it up louder (as long as you're not hearing distortion.) In other words, you're just trying to increase your signal/noise ratio.
My dB levels at 0db on my receiver is at 95 and I can't turn them down anymore in levels. I have a marants 7013. And ideas? Should I start this calibration after I run audysey or should I start from scratch?
Run audessy first. Then set your Master volume to 0db and use the level match test tones on the disk. Make sure you have a calibrated spl meter or a calibration mic with rew and check your levels. Each speaker should be 85db, assuming it was recorded at -20db. We probably need some clarity there
@@t-rex1480 you do NOT run audysey first. You start from scratch with any dy. Eq ECT turned off. You can run audysey on preset 1, then on preset 2 start from scratch and run this calibration disk....then compare preset 1 (audysey cal) and preset 2 (this disk) and compair.
@skypallman6169 I disagree, you want distances, crossovers, and eq filters all applied when you are level matching the speakers. If you level match before running Audyssey, it won't matter since Audyssey will ignore the previously set levels and other settings.
@@t-rex1480 to each their own. Don't know why you want an EQ curve when level matching. I don't trust aud even with distancing, laser range finder you will find to be more accurate.
@skypallman6169 when pink noise is played, it covers a wide range of frequencies. If some of those frequencies are boosted 4db and you try to set the spl level, that average spl of the speaker will be higher. Then if you eq the speaker and remove that area which was boosted by -4db, the overall average speaker spl will be decreased. Essentially you want everything that will alter the frequency response done first, then level match
no one is saying you need to listen at 0dB MV when watching content. The whole point of calibrating the sound level, is that your sound output should be able to reach the Dolby reference of 105dB when listening back at 0dB MV. This is of course insanely loud, you need to find your own MV comfort level when watching content. As I am writing this I am watching TV on my living room HT, and my AVR is at -30dB, for movies I go quite a bit louder but still around -20db.
These test tones are at -20dB, correct? So why are you deviating from reference level calibration at 85dB, and are using 75dB instead? For the novice, it is important to know that using your AVRs internal test tones, the internal test tones are dampened a further 10dB for your consumer ears comfort during setup, so by setting speaker level at 75dB using the AVRs internal test tones, the AVR will compensate back the 10dB after setup and play at Dolby reference level 105dB (75 +20+10) at reference volume (0dB MV). When using external test tones that are recorded at -20dB, like this toolkit, you must calibrate speaker levels at 85dB to reach 105dB at reference volume.
How to level match speaker. Really, you guys are funny😂 you didn't reply to my comments so i keep making comments respectfully. Like I said nobody is outputting more than 2 atmos. There is no streaming company's that output more than 2 atmos and there is no DVD or streaming company that output 8k or more than 2 atmos. You can have all the speakers in the world but you only here 2 atmos left and right. The rest is simulation, ha. If you tell me the dvd or the streaming company that output more than 2 atmos speaker and a streaming company that output more that 4k I will not make anymore comments. Find out and let me know.
I already responded to you 8 days ago, so here it is again - "To answer your question, no. You are wrong. On the consumer side, I've gone from a 5.1.2 to a 5.1.4 and that upgrade was huge as you actually get front to back movement in the height channels. Then I went from 5.1.4 to 7.1.4. After creating over 160 Atmos tracks and mixing Atmos for a couple of years, I've come to find out that the ideal setup would be 7.1.6. And contrarty to what you belive...Atmos is Atmos, wheater it's lossy DD+ or lossless Dolby TrueHD. I have created a 9.1.6 Atmos mix and delivered it in both DD+ and Dolby TrueHD and it works correctly. 8K...yeah, that's BS...Atmos, however is different."
Well que será será but to me all I need is my 5.1.2 and it sound fantastic especially the movie quiet place the first one. If people want to do all that then more power for them and to you. Keep up the good works and thanks.
@@josemelendez2910 what do you do for a living? If you look up "ignorant comments from ignorant people " on Google... Deff showing up high on page 1. Baffled by people like you that argue with professionals (especially ones who produce their own freaking Atmos mixes) trying to act like you know something they don't! You Probably have a Dolby Atmos sound bar as well!🤣 These guys have forgotten more about audio than you will ever know! And harassing with multiple comments demanding a response??!! Grow up! If you would actually listen you might learn something instead of being a "know-it-all" who knows nothing! Imagine all the completely WRONG "advice" you have spewed to "friends" setting them in a terrible direction with their systems.
The way you are doing it here, you can do it on top of your Room EQ, just make sure to disable any DSP adjustments like Dynamic EQ, Dynamic Volume or other Dynamic Range Compression or LFE containment, Cinema EQ etc. That way everything coming from the speakers is the same SPL.