This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list ru-vid.comUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
Amanda just a helpful tip... lf you buy welders gloves they will keep your hands safe as you load more wood into a hot stove.... they also come up covering your forearm for added protection..
Yeah true, it is the air intake and not the flue. It's a old habit from having a flue on an open fireplace, got used to calling it that. Sorry and thanks for the comment!
Yep, I can heartily agree with your method. The key part is the firebed - the layer of hot embers onto which the fuel stack is placed. It can take up to an hour to create the proper firebed - it should be seriously hot - stoke it with a bunch of wood with all the dampers closed. Minimum airflow will drive off all the volatiles from the wood and leave you with what is basically charcoal. Distribute that mass of charcoal evenly so the air can get through, open the dampers and let the airflow go to maximum. If the flames go blue and you have plasma dancing in the firebox, it's hot! The load it up with the densest, knottiest, gnarliest hunks you can find - the density is key. Once they're on the hot firebed, close down the air and let them do their thing overnight. Come the morning you''ll have a warm room and a firebed ready for the day. Opening the door delivers 'Top air' - that's air that mixes with the volatile gases coming off the wood, burning them in a top flame. For a long burn, you need just enough 'bottom air' - air flowing through the grate, up through the fire for complete combustion. BTW - I really like your stove! That big window is superb! 🙂
Thanks, your description is awesome! I love the fact that I can start it again right away in the morning. Still a beautiful bed of hot coals under the ash. Happy heating!
More properly the air intake rather than flue, but great video, and you can see the secondary burn tubes working well. This is the secret to a long burn I believe, burning/lighting up the volatiles in the smoke, via secondary burn. This means your logs aren't being consumed as quickly. In the bad old days before secondary burn all those volatiles went up the flue as smoke and creosote. Any stout glove like those cheap pigskin leather gloves from handyman and gardening stores will allow you better access to a hot stove as you load it up...
Was going to mention the same thing. If there were a flue, it would be in the chimney/stove pipe. It looks like this is a Regency stove, not sure of the model. Ours is a 2500, with catalyst and electric blower, installed last year to heat our house full-time. We always use this loading technique, which keeps the catalyst up to temperature so we can keep the blower on "high" and get the most heat out of each load. At least once a week, we have to let the coals burn down to ash to reclaim the space in our stove. We try to do that on a sunny day when we don't need as much heat, because getting the stove back up to temperature takes a bit longer; the first load becomes the bed of coals for the next overnight burn. It's good to see that others are doing it the same way! Remember: wood heat is both renewable, and carbon-neutral!
As a chimney sweep i can trll you that damping down the stove leads to a dirty burn...ya gotta leave some airflow so the smoke can get out of the chimney before it cools down and condenses into creosote.
Totally agree with your comment, our stove is EPA rated and so isn't completely air tight. We do have the stove cleaned yearly and they have told us we are using good burning practices. Thanks for the comment!
Nice video! Similar to what I do but I rake all the coals forward so you get that true front to back cigar burn. I also don’t leave door open, no need if draft is good
Masonry stove .. build a fire, keep it going about 4 hrs. In 2 hrs you can notice some temperature difference between stove and room .. And then .. 4 tons of red bricks stays warm for long time (once heated up)
Thanks for doing this. I’m with your method, for the most part; with the exception that I get a longer burn by using two of the largest dense full ‘rounds’ I can squeeze in on top the bed. If the bed of coals is a bit shite, I may put 2 or 3 small splits on top the bed first.
Hopefully you have a good flu gas thermometer in your stove pipe. Also, be careful when you open your stove door, that the overhang doesn't go beyond the protection on the floor. I have seen an ember stick to the door, and fall off the door onto unprotected floor surface. Can be very dangerous. Happy heating.
Thanks, that’s definitely important. We just had the installation of this stove done about 4 months to supplement our stove insert in another room. It’s WETT certified and has a large area of floor protection. I wouldn’t want one without that, too dangerous!
You wouldn't make it in Alaska..sorry. This wouldn't make an overnight burn in Alaska. Your stove isn't big enough for starters. You need gloves to keep your hands from burning. We've been doing this for 35 years rounds are the way to go girl. JS
I can shorten this up a bit: Create the bed of coals using smaller pieces of wood. Damper your flue (I just call it the air intake) down to a minimum and then add REALLY large pieces of firewood. At least two three is better. Then go to bed. I've used this approach for thirty years with my Pacific Energy Spectrum stove with great results. I only burn birch firewood. Sometimes it's seasoned for a year other times just a week or so. I have a straight vertical chimney about 10' in length and have never had to sweep the chimney for creosote.
Hey Guys I'm new to wood stoves. How do I follow this process without having a "run away stove". I tried this or something similar by packing it full and my stove top started to get a red spot. I freaked out and read to open all air and the stove door to allow cool air in and that worked but I of course lost the wood because it burned in a couple of hours.
You should be able to control the fire by closing down the air intake and the damper. If your stove doesn't have a built in damper, you can put one in the stovepipe. The magnetic thermometers are good to tell you when to turn things down. It takes some experimentation to figure out . Good luck!
There are some very importent construction difrences between an old woodstove an a falt new made woodstove,that makes all the diffrence,and is the main reason why the firerstarying metod from the top and down are better,than fromdown the bottom and thrue the firewood obove,, and that reasion is the possotin of the woodstoves fresh air intakes are placed,,at the old woodstove the air intakte adjuatebles baffels the are egen at the level of the wood pile senter or Even higher up then that,,that makes a topp and down thrue the wood belowe difficult and it takes way longer time for the woodstove to Get realy heated,, But a overnight longtime woodburn cicle should always be startes in the top/down manner
I never load up my woodstove at night. I don't want too much of a fire if no one is around to keep an eye on things. Burn wood during the day the house gets toasty warm then is usually not toasty warm but very decent temp wise in the morning and I sleep fine knowing I have no fire worries.
Best thing I did was to connect an outside air connection for combustion air. After burning firewood for 20+ years I finally decided to install an outside air kit. I used to feel cold even with the wood stove roaring. I finally realized it was due to a draft from the indoor air being pulled into the stove. The humidity also went from
That’s a good tip. From what I understand external air kits are needed when your home is newer or really well sealed. We have been working to seal our house better as it’s rated as pretty leaky. So, at the moment we don’t need an external air kit. Maybe one day!
I couldn't agree more the difference in heat retained in the home is staggering. My stove suddenly heated my 2000 square ft house like it had doubled its output.
@@idamandahomestead4221 there's more to it than that. A fire requires a flow of air it will not burn in a vacuum. The idea is with a fire burning and pulling air from inside the building it literally pulls cold outside air in to replace what the fire burnt and sent up the chimney. If you draw directly from outside there is no exchange of air happening in the building as the fire is drawing from outside consuming what it needs and sending it back outside. This increases the overall efficiency and effectiveness of your heater dramatically. Edit sorry for the long post and i load my stove the same for the overnight 👍
@@squirlnutsbigsack4864 that's really interesting, I will have to look into this! I had understood that as long as your house isn't airtight you didn't need one. But, I will definitely check it out because I am all for increased efficiency!
I’ve had a high efficiency Regent wood stove in Canada for 20+ years. In exchange for the long burn, you are sure to get creosote buildup. After a while, you risk a chimney fire, especially when preheating as per the video. (One commenter said the chamber was getting up to 1000 deg.) Get a thermometer and be sure the chimney is not overheating. Second, if you do this a lot, clean the chimney a couple of time a heating season until you know how much buildup you are getting.
I definitely agree that you need to monitor for creosote buildup as well as your stove burning temp. I do have a stove thermometer and it never gets over 700 deg with this method. We do also have our stove cleaned yearly and they have told us we are using good burning methods. You definitely need to keep an eye on that though! Thanks for the comment!
Very nice video, thank you very much. Just put an old Jotul cast iron stove in my basement and it heats the whole house, but I’ve been having a hard time keeping it stoked for the entire night. Going to try this method tonight.
A tip for loading the wood into a hot firebox so you don't get burned: wear a pair of heavy leather welder's gloves and you can load the wood in a more leisurely fashion. I agree with the 'perpendicular' stacking of the wood in the stove, it seems to be easier to get a hotter burn. Sometimes, I'll lay the bottom row in a perpendicular fashion and layer 2-4 pieces horizontally.
Thanks for the comment, I do have a pair of gloves but my dog tends to eat them so I got out of the habit of using them. Definitely a good idea though! That's an interesting idea about the perpendicular and horizontal stacking. Any reason you choose one over the other? I have always found I could fit them together better perpendicular.
Kinda... kinda... kinda... IAC I'm puzzled by your nomenclature. The flue is the pipe leading up from the top (or sometimes back) of the stove That lever you're moving around at 5:39 is the air vent control--isn't it? I've never seen a flue control at the bottom of a stove.
Hello, thanks for the comment. You're right that is the air intake control. Before having a woodstove we had an open fireplace, guess I am just used to calling the lever the flue. My apologies.
Love my wood stove, but every year I DO brush the chimney to remove Any creosote. And my wood has been dried in my drying shed for at least a year after being split. You never can be too safe!
PLEASE get yourself a pair of welder's gloves! They will allow you to momentarily reach into the intensity of the fire and place your wood in position without any harm to yourself.
Put a 152000 BTU vogelzang in our house 2600 sq. ft. in 2013. Electric bill went immediatly to 65.00 per month through the winter. We have not turned our heat pump on since 2013, and you can adjust this stove to keep your home about whatever temperature you are comfortable in. Also whenever power goes out in the winter you have light from the stove and you can cook and heat water. Old habits hard to break.
Yes, we have just taken out our gas furnace and put in a air heat pump. We are hoping to only use it a little and rely mostly on the wood stove. We are lucky to have woods to supply our wood. I have boiled water on it too!
I have the same stove and if I put more than 4 pieces in it the fire starts rolling rapidly and over fires the stove even with the damper almost fully closed. What do you do that I’m not?
@@jmanyoo3305 sorry for the delay in replying I missed this comment. I am not sure what the difference is. You could maybe try full logs? I have seen several comments that this reduces the temp of the burn. I am going to try that too. Let me know!
Nice... thank you so much for posting. I didn't read the prior comments (sorry) but have you ever put the wood in East to West, rather than North & South like you did in this video. I heard that by putting the wood in lengthwise (east & west) you get a longer burn time. Experiment. thank you.... and happy wood heating..
I prefer shorter pieces put in North and South, only because when I have longer pieces and put it in lengthwise, they tend to roll off and lay against the glass. Then there's this whole having to barely crack the door so I can reach in with the poker and scooch it over!
Correct. Wanted to point this out too. With the grain contradicting the natural airflow of the stove all wood will burn slower. I just use larger rounds so the buggers can’t roll. We can’t get an all nighter with subalpine fir any other way but, if it works for others then that’s great. Thanks for the vid!
The way my Fireplace Insert is configured, I have to load East to West. It has a shallow 14” depth. The only way I can fill the fire box front to back is cut my firewood to 12”, which I do at times. East to west the fire box will except a 24” piece of firewood. Nice video👍
Yes, we could put a longer piece east to west, but I would have to reach further in which would be more difficult. I have welding gloves now so maybe I’ll try it!
What i would give for this style of wood burner stove. Absolutely fabulous to sit and look at the front glass section. So relaxing and the little fan blowing the air out also is amazing. Unreal .
I also controlled the amount of fresh air intake to slow burning. Lastly I would save y-sections of wood ( where the trunk splits). Split them and put one in the stove at bed time. They burn more slowly and I'd still have hot coals or flames in the morning.
1:26 "So this is how we're going to put our...blogs." If only blogs and vlogs could be used for fuel, the energy crisis would be solved by tomorrow evening.
Haha, was that a close captioning typo? I'll have to give the gears to RU-vid! But it's true if we could power the world with social media posts we'd be set! Thanks for the comment!
I loaded with nice 6 inch diameter or so red oak or sometimes we had maple or even Elm Before closing it down for the night About 1/4 turn open with one damper Fisher mama bear😊 It would burn for at least twelve hours this way👋 If I loaded our stoves that way my Father would Have me up at 0400 hours to start it again It irritates me so much to see people destroying good firewood turning it into kindling. Plenty of dead branches for that we had ten acres bordering on county state and Nicolet national forest That blurred into Hiawatha and chequamagon national forest. We never had to cut any trees down healthy ones that is for ten years without hardly making a dent in it😂 I miss hovering over wood stove with coffee in the mornings ☕
Great tips. I try to accomplish the same affect by putting in the largest round possible (22” diameter and 9” tall). I cut some of my wood in very short pieces (9”) which also keeps me from having to split these. Gary
As a 2020 certified EPA wood stove it is very close to air tight. The reason the stove works with the damper fully closed is that secondary burn tubes have their own air intake that is always open. Also, hard to tell from the video but it looks to me that fire burned too hat for too long. Get yourself a stove thermometer or an IR gun and make sure the stove does not go over the manufacture’s specs. I’m guessing that fire was burning well over a 1000 degrees for a while.
Hello there, I actually do have a stove thermometer and the temp does stay within the safe range. I completely agree that if you are going to do something like this you don't want to over fire your stove! Thanks for the comment!
Thank you just got my epa wood stove, waiting on my mobile home install kit to arrive but tomorrow putting my hearth together and putting up my imperial wall shields. Great vid thank you.
I'm an idiot. I was filling my stove where I was looking at the whole log in front if me instead if how you have it. No wonder it was going out way too fast I could barely get any wood inside
I agree an overloaded woodstove is dangerous! We carefully monitor the stove temp and tried this multiple times during the day before leaving it overnight. Thanks for the comment!
Gauntlet style welders gloves will protect your hands and arms. I had to be careful putting wood in as if it hits the fire brick hard enough to make a sound, the fire brick breaks apart over time and must be replaced. Good video, though.
Question: Should I use the primary air vent or secondary when getting the fire hot? I have three sliders on my fireplace: Primary, secondary and tertiary. Thanks a lot for the video. I have a Northern Flame Azar multifuel fireplace; I’m just acared of overburning if I it heats up as much as yours did.
Hello there! To be honest I am not sure of the answer to your question. I have only one air intake to adjust. I would think if you look up the instruction manual for your stove it should help. As far as the stove overheating, that's why I use a stove thermometer over the firebox to make sure I am keeping a safe temp. Good luck!
Without sounding like a nanny, would you not wear a gauntlet glove when shoving the wood into the back of the fire, just to avoid the risk of being burnt. 🤷
Thanks for the demonstration it seems to be a nice unit thinking about getting one like that for my house. Now, in my shop, I have an old 1920 rugged wood stove, and it burns for a good 10 hours loaded with seasoned wood. Hey take care and God bless
New to wood heating, so thanks for the visual demonstration of stacking for an overnight burn. With this crazy cold front, I'm learning the hard way that a heat pump just isn't enough in negative temps, so it's a crash course in wood heating!
I totally agree, we just put in our heat pump this fall and are trying to avoid using the electric auxiliary heat. We find the heat pump doesn't do enough below freezing temps and can only keep the house up to 15 or 16deg C. With the stove we can get it much more comfortable. Thanks for watching!
I just moved to Mount Shasta and my heat pump went kaboom. A new one will be installed in January. I am down to my wood stove and boy - you have to learn. I love the heat it provides. A question I have is - after you put that big dense log on the hot coals, must you see fire dancing from that log before you are comfortable with the settings? Still learning!!! And I don't have the damper... only a push pull vent on the bottom
I don't know how cold it is where you are or what your draft is like but I have heated my house for 30 years and I don't do all that and think you burned off a lot of wood that could have burned longer into the morning. Good bed of coals absolutely, but then I just pack it as tight as I can, shut the air down the max cuz my 30 year old VC stove is not air tight anymore and it burns all night from 9:30 pm to 6:30 am. I guess what works for you works but it isn't how I do it and like I said I've been doing this for a long time.
I guess it depends on the weather and the size of the house. Our house is over 3000 sqft and weather gets down to minus 20 celcius sometimes. So, a little bit cold here!! Stove does great though!
@@idamandahomestead4221 It gets that cold here too but my house is on 1 level and is 1500 sq ft. Have you ever just kept loading wood into it vs letting it all just burn down to coals so that about 30 minutes before you go to bed you can add a couple of logs to fill the stove vs having nothing but coals and having to spend the time to build the fire? I'd bet that takes a good 15 to 30 minutes. For me, when it is time to hit the sack, I don't want to spend any more time than it takes to go outside, grab a few pieces of wood and shut down the stove for the night.
Haha, yup gloves are a good idea! I don't use them when loading just a piece or two but I do normally use them when loading up for the night. Thanks for the comment and the subscribe!
@@VegasEdo dayum people read those safety sheets, Most stoves arent built to be fired with more than 2 or so kilograms of wood at once .... You Run your stoves twice or tribble as high as they are built for .... Dangerous !!
Very good video. The hot bright spot in the center bottom of your stove looks like an air leak. On my stove that indicates the rope seal around the ash dump drawer is ready for replacement. I don't know if that applies to this stove or not. Thank you for your video.
When I first started burning wood I'd always hear people talk about "banking the fire" for an overnight burn. I did this for the first few years, but since I cleaned my own flue every year I saw just how much creosote can build up if the fire (therefore the flue) isn't how enough. I have a masonry chimney with a terracotta liner. Best thing I invested in was a thermometer for my stovepipe. I like to keep my temp around 400 degrees. I'd rather have to get up in the middle of the night to throw wood in the fire than burn a cool, smouldering fire.
Absolutely. After you burn wood for a few years you can just tell when it's hot enough but someone new to it will try to burn green wood and end up with a flue fire. I never really have to clean my flue, just open the tee in the pipe over my stove and vacuum out the burned creosote that falls down on the baffle plate of my stove.
Thanks for the reply! From what I understand banking a fire involves putting a layer of ash over hot coals/wood to partially smother it and really slow down the burn. I think it would not therefore generate much heat but would preserve hot coals for the morning. What we are doing is keeping the fire going but at a slower rate. I have a woodstove thermometer to help me make sure it doesn't get too hot or cold. I try to keep it out of the creosote range. I have another video on that too if you are interested. Other thoughts/suggestions welcome!
Yeah, get some gloves so you don't keep tossing splits in. You really don't want to keep hitting the secondary burn tubes and slamming the firebricks either.
This is a GREAT video on how to leave a wood stove overloaded and unattended...and at risk for over firing. U arent really supposed to pack as much wood as possible into stove. I actually tried what this woman does in my buck 74 and was rewarded with a glowing stoce that was about 1000 degrees surface temp. DONT DO THIS.
Hello there, I'm not sure what kind of stove you have but this consistently works well for me. I do have a stove thermometer and using this method the stove is in the safe burning range of under 700 degrees Fahrenheit (stovetop temp). Good luck finding a better method that works with your stove. Thanks for the comment.
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Hello! The trick to adding so much wood is that you have to stack it tightly together otherwise it would burn too hot! So if it is stacked together and you close down the air intake (slowly) the wood will burn slowly. I am not sure if you have similar woodstoves in Greece but I think you should be able to load them the same. You can also do this with full logs that would also burn more slowly than the split logs. Let me know if this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
For those of you who use a smoker to cook meat, this is the same technique to lay briquettes down and conduct a controlled burn which last hours. Using round logs, not split, will add some burn time in an overnight burn.
One thing I was hoiping you would explain - why not close the door and flu all the way after loading the wood? Is the concern that the fire would go out? Too much smoke/PM2.5? Thanks.
Hello there and thanks for the comment! Yes, leaving the door open gives the fire more oxygen and helps it get burning faster. Then I close the door and it keeps going. if your fire is really hot to begin with you may not need to do this.
The lever your calling the "flue" control is actually the air intake. These stoves have no flue dampening. You should have a way to monitor either the stove temp or flue gas temp, over firing can cause damage and under firing will cause excess soot. These stoves work by way of a secondary burn. When you reach a certain temperature that's when you'll see the tubes at the top look like gas burners ignite the unburned smoke (wood gas) for a more efficient burn and a cleaner stove. Use larger pieces for longer burn times. For my overnighters I use well seasoned hardwood at 11"x7"x16". I can get 10-12 hours of good heat but will still have coals after 16 hours.
That’s a good idea, I have asked my husband to leave some full logs that are stove size the next time we take down a tree. Our chimney cleaning company has always said we are using good burning practices, always room for improvement though. Thanks!
