For uneven or scarred freehub body, I reccomend using a smooth file, to make sure the whole spline is straight, and don't have bumps, this will keep the cassette fitting straight evry time, and not get stuck, ut eventually you will run out of material so steel freehub or freehub with steel inserts is needed
Thanks for the great tips for cup and cone. Really re-affirms what I've been doing with preloading a little less and assuming the quick release will cinch up the rest.
I have a SRAM ROAM30 XD freehub with 142x12 thru axle, so there’s not QR, but I’ve got a bit of side to side play. About 1mm. What could be the problem?
#AskGMBNTech I recently got a new bike recently with not much money to spare. But I was a bit confused when I went out onto my local trails my suspension fork was only using up a little bit of the suspension no matter how hard I pushed down on it or how big the drop was and I have even adjusted the preload to as much as possible. So I came here to ask if there was anything I could do to make it use most if not all of the unused suspension on my bike or if it was worth me getting a lower leg fork service. By the way, its a coil suspension fork. Thanks. Trax.
#askGMBNTech Hey guys I love the content! A friend of mine wants to upgrade his fork, but his wheels are using QR hubs so I was wondering what would be a fairly modern fork to upgrade to, as the new standard is more toward through axle. Or does a conversion kit exist for this? Thanks
#askgmbntech hey guys, I was just curious if tyres can change geometry, I know you say that fork travel can change head angles but can I bigger tyer do the same?
Help! I’ve been having a ton of problems with the preload, the front hub is a cup and cone with a 20mm axle and the rear one have sealed bearing but still uses a cup and cone style preload system. The problem is the same on both, after a few days they either tighten of loosen even though I try to do a perfect preload. The technique I use is get the first nut at finger tight and then tight the second one with ny fingers too, here it should be some friction when turning the axle, then I use a couple of cone spanners to let the outer nut in place and tight the inner one againts the outer one (gentlely tight), releasing pression out of the bearing. This give a good preload, smooth turning and no playing of the axle. But then I ride and everything screws.
Is it while installed in bike? Or when it soff the bike if its off the bike, it might be a model thst has pull off end caps and the freehub body can move slightly if the caps are not clamped by the frame
Only had free hub damage like that shown when the cassette is made up on single rings, SRAM style single piece cassettes shouldn't cause that kind of issue
Great bike , rides smooth ru-vid.comUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L I added a bigger spring loaded seat to it . Takes a bit of adjusting cables to get brakes and shifting to perfect . I've owned quite a few bikes in the past that were absolutely uncomfortable to ride and they always ended up as garage wall decor . I'm not seeing that with this one. It's pretty light I've only ridden it a few miles but I like it . As for the pedals falling off in the other reviews , the pedal arms are aluminum along with the pedal studs look to be also . I would not overtighten them. I can see it would be very easy to overtighten them and strip the threads right off . All in all I think it's pretty good quality besides the aluminum pedal thing
@@billysbikes8671 If it has been like that for 3 years, there's probably hardly any grease left in there. Grease gets more viscous in the cold and jams the pawls of your free hub, which caused slipping and you basically die.
@@th_js i have re greased it twice sine ive owned it stop worrying about my hub it jast keeps it quiet so i can hear the trails have you heard a carbon trs race e13 hub?
Cup and cone can last forever because you can do a thorough bearing clean and re-pack. Then you know exactly what condition it's in when you go to that remote back country mountain bike trip.
@@newttella1043 While it takes a while, the issue I've had with cup and cone bearings is that the "cup" is non replaceable as it is machined into the hub. Ultimately it is still susceptible to spalling and other standard bearing failure modes. Additionally the slightest variation of preload will accelerate this process. Thus once this does happen (which i've experience with shimano XT hubs before), it requires full replacement /re-lace of the hub as opposed to a simple bearing swap.
Why do you have to wear that stupidly distracting metal on your face? Have you considered wearing a full face helmet on youtube? Equally distracting. It's ridiculous really...
