Great and clear how to video. Glad that you are no nonsense and have no personality when instructing. Just the facts with no "I know something you don't know" that is so typical of show-offs on other videos. I have been playing guitar for 50 years and have never done truss rod adjustments. I have sanded the bridges. Thank you for your clear and valuable teachings. Much success to you!
Great video, perfectly explained. I came to this video as I was trying to lower the action on my Yamaha FX370C. I discovered the pick-up was firmly attached to the saddle, so sanding it down wasn't an option. I discovered that Yamaha put a couple of little shims in the recess that seats the saddle, all I had to do was remove one or both shims to lower the height of the saddle. As an electric player I wasn't aware of this. I hope it helps someone else out there.
have not even finished the video but THANK YOUU. I have this guitar and man the action is ridiculous- I have been waiting a little over a year or for a video like this. praises to you kind sir
I wish you included that a slight bow in the neck is actually very desirable! We want the neck relief to mimic the shape of the string as it vibrates more towards the center. But very high quality video nonetheless, I can tell you put a lot of effort in it.
Yes and no . . I need to do a video on this because there's a lot of misunderstanding on this subject and it's hard to explain. The only time this is always true is when the heal of the neck is above the 12th fret so the bow is around the middle of the neck. On most acoustic guitars the heal is below the 12 fret and on these SLGs the heal is at the 12th fret making it not so clear cut. Sometimes the truss rod anchor point effects whether it should have a bow or not too.
Great video! I just picked up a Yamaha SLG200N and although I love it. I did see the action could use improving. Slightly higher on the back end toward the saddle. Action is better up top. I just picked it up on fathers day. Now I will check the neck using your method. This is awesome! Thank you!
I recently got a Yamaha SLG200N and found the action too high. While I was looking for any explanation for the right height, I found this video which is very informative and just the thing I was looking for. I wonder why Yamaha choses this much height on these guitars.
I have just bought the yamaha slg200n can you tell me what is the lowest height of action i should go for in order to not make a huge buz? The neck is completely straight. Thanks!
An easy way to check the neck relief is to hold down the string at the 13th fret and look for a gap between the string and 7th fret. You can push down on the string to see how far it goes before it hits the fret. If there's a hump, the string will be sitting on the fret. If there's a bow, there will be a gap. Many players like a little bit of relief at the 7th fret.
Absolutely love the detailed descriptions. The ensure you have a spare saddle avice is sound, as it may take a long while to replace. Please do a detailed video on repairing and perhaps replacing the nut.
Gracias señor, lo sigo desde Chile. Su video es muy bueno y no me atrevia a bajar el piazo, hoy lo intentaré siguiendo su magnifico y claro video, saludos desde el fin del mundo.
This excellent video just popped up, probably because I’ve been searching YAMAHA silent guitars on the internet. I’m sure I have not seen a better, clearer explanation regarding the minefield that is adjusting the action on a guitar. Your time and effort making this video is much appreciated, thank you. Note: Did I see the word “hieght” instead of “height”? 😊
Hi all I am brand new to guitars and guitar playing. Not even been a week since I have my first guitar. After extensive research, probably on the wrong topic, I decided to buy a Yamaha silent guitar with Nylon strings. I was totally focused on the "silent" part while worrying that I could not find time to practice with a regular guitar due to my schedule. Walls are paper-thin here; hence you can hear the fly in the other room and who wants to wake up the family at night with guitar lessons. Anyhow, as a total newbie, I was also not aware that a guitar might not work out of the box, and you might have to adjust a guitar to make it more playable, at least for a beginner. After I got the guitar, I found out about the importance of the action height. The action on my guitar was 3.65 mm. I measured the low E-string with a feeler gauge at the 12th fret. I searched for the normal or best height and found varying numbers depending on many things. But I also found the information to get it as low as possible, at least for a beginner, without causing buzzing. I wasn't sure if I could do that and what other problems could come with it. Then I found this video with the impressive cristal clear step-by-step instructions pictures and animation, fantastic. With that information, I was very confident that I could do it. First, I measured the neck straightness using my trusty Starrett precision straight edge. It looked OK, but the feeler gauge could find some 0.2 mm gap in the neck middle, which I did not change. I made 2.5 mm at the 12th fret my goal but wasn't sure if I could achieve it due to the remaining saddle height at the low E-string. I measured the saddle and ordered spare parts. I used a sharp caliper to make a scratchmark on the saddle, marking up to where I wanted to remove material. I used different grades of sanding paper, mostly 120, and ended with 400. I turned the saddle horizontally during sanding to eliminate potential mistakes due to not holding the saddle absolutely perpendicular to the surface. I only worked on the spares and left the original untouched. The first one was too low. The high E-String did not touch the saddle. The next one was better. I did not remove the strings. I just loosened them significantly. What can I say? Thanks to this very detailed video, it worked perfectly, even for me as a total greenhorn. The action was now 2.6 mm at the low E-String 12th fret. Things are now getting more manageable. Also, I don't inadvertently mute strings so often. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR PROVIDING THIS OUTSTANDING VIDEO!!
wow, it's great that you managed to adjust the action on your guitar as a beginner and it's even better that it has made the guitar so much more payable for you . . . great news. Thanks for watching and your feedback as well 😊😃
Glad to see I did my cheap Argos budget Martin Smith guitar the right way a couple of months ago, Next up is converting it to an electro acoustic (which I already know you've covered in another video)
Simply excellent ! The very best information on the subject to be found anywhere. Thank you very much on behalf of many of us, who will benefit greatly from your instructions. Also, fantastic channel of truly great value to any serious guitar player !
Thank you for putting the saddle measurements on screen, I did get the SLG200N and played it live last week, I can play it but it does feel like it could be slightly lower action
Very good advice on this subject. The only thing I would suggest to make sure that the base of the saddle is as flat as possible is to constantly reverse the saddle through 180 degrees after a number of passes whilst sanding it down. I usually do six movements then turn it the other way and do another six. This way you compensate for any natural tendency to lean one way.
@@guitar-academy Very helpful. I've checked the neck and it's flat. But yet my guitar doesn't give enough sustain and pressing is a little bit hard. Can you advise what can I do toake the setup better?
@@ShlomoNizin the first thing that springs to mind is the strings. The heavier the strings are the harder they are to press and all strings over a few months old loose there sustain. Maybe try some lighter strings . . If the action is high the strings will be harder to press because you have to push them further, but higher actioned guitars tend to have better sustain . . . I hope this helps 😊😃
My steel string version of the Yamaha just needed the truss rod tightened and it brought the action down to a very very nice height. I got mine from Sweetwater and i think they loosen the truss rods before they ship acoustics. This is the 2nd one i got where the truss rod was loose. But after doing this, i didnt have to touch the nut or the saddle at all.
The beads are called 'flamenco beads', I did a review of them ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iIPLkeXg4Kk.html the link is under the video 😊😊
Very detailed video. I appreciate the hard work you've put into producing this video! One question. My string height at the bridge/saddle for the high E string, is only 3.5mm so according to your explanation, I need at least 2-3mm of height. So in my case, I could only lower it by max. 2.0mm, correct? Does this rule of min. string height (2-3mm) apply to all the strings? So generally speaking, the limit to lower the saddle height is dictated by the height of the high E string, since it's usually the string that has the least amount of string height, correct? Or could you "even" out the saddle angle that the height of the saddle would be the same across the whole length of the saddle thus making the position of all the strings the same - or would that be a bad idea?
some good questions 😊 . . Just to be clear, it's best to measure the action height at the 12th fret because it is dead centre down the string. The action is best with a little more height on the thick (bottom E) string, because this string moves more when vibrating. Because most of the time Yamaha shape the saddle to fingerboard, I recommend lowering the saddle uniformly. There is no rule regarding string action . . if you're happier with the action as it is or an action that is slightly higher than the examples used, this isn't a problem or wrong. Some people like high action and the sound can be clearer with a high action. I hope this helps 😊
Yes, but you have to go to a shop and ask them to adjust it for you, or you have to buy a second hand one that has been adjusted by the previous owner. Many music shops have guitar techs or luthiers who can do the job for you but Yamaha don't do it out of the factory. 😊
You are an amazing teacher. Simple, logical, and clear instructions. Thank you. When you say low and high e string, I am assuming you mean e6 and e1 respectively, correct?
I found with my SLG200N it wasn't necessary to remove the strings to take the saddle off because with this particular guitar just loosening the strings ...then sliding the saddle out is the quicker way to do it.
Doesn't the fretboard suppose to show a very small bow while holding the string pushed against the 12th fret to eliminate buzzing?. I enjoy your videos. I recently purchased the book collection. Thank you
This is true according to Fender handbooks but many other manufacturers don't recommend it. I find it a good idea on a lot of electric guitars with 25.5 inch necks, but with shorter necks and acoustic guitars I find flat or nearly flat is better. It is important never to have a hump and therefore it's better to have a slight bow if your not sure.
@@ras1500 that's interesting . . I'd recommend to measure the bow from around the 7th fret or better still measure the length of the neck from the nut and measure the bow at the centre point. (I should have put this in my video 🤔). This is because the centre of the neck is where the bow will appear deepest. The 12th fret is the centre of the scale length which goes all the way up to the saddle. All this being said, sticking strictly to construction theory rarely works and everyone has there own setup that they love and every guitar has it's own idiosyncrasies. 😊😊
Great video - thank you. After watching this I am confident in lowering the action on my SLG200S. I know its a personal preference, but what action do you recommend for a beginner to have on this guitar?
Sorry, I really can't answer that question accurately. It's more than personal preference, it also depends on how level the frets are and how straight the neck is. Even on the most expensive guitars there's differences in these things. But as a guide, my slg200s is 2mm at the 12th fret Bottom string and slightly lower 1.9 at the 12th fret top string.
I've been considering buying a Yamaha Silent Guitar (nylon string). Have you had a chance to do a video on adjusting the nut on this guitar? Thank you kindly. Best regards from Montréal Canada.
@@guitar-academy Okay, I can appreciate your predicament. Many musicians and others in the performing arts have been experiencing financial difficulties since the pandemic started. I haven't had a single gig in almost two years now. I've subscribed to your channel and will see if and when you can cover this topic. Thanks for answering my question. It's much appreciated. 🙏 When I can get a Yamaha Silent Guitar nylon string I believe there are 2 models. One is a standard classical width neck 52mm at the nut, and a model with a more narrow width of 50mm. I would most likely get the narrower one. Thanks, take care and stay safe.
@@GlennMichaelThompson Yes, I've got the narrow nut version and it's a nice neck. I think you misunderstood me slightly earlier, I've got all the tools, but I feel guilty putting up a video where I know the tools will cost so much. The price of the correct tools are insane . . oh yeah . . Covid has destroyed my work as well and keeps dragging on and on . . 😒
@@guitar-academy Okay...thanks for the clarification. I always do my own setups except for the nut, unless it's just a matter of lowering the nut by removing some material from the bottom. I've never tried to cut a new nut, or filed the slots to any degree. It's cheaper to pay an experienced repair person/luthier for that than buying the right tools for job. It's also not a problem I've seen very often in 45 years of guitar playing. Sorry to hear that Covid has also affected your work. I hope things change for the better in the not too distant future. You nailed it saying Covid has destroyed your work. Same thing here. My current monthly income is below what my essential bills add up to. This virus has been putting me into debt every month! It's gotten to the point where I have to sell some guitars and other gear just trying to survive. Wishing you all the best. Here's looking forward to things opening up again. 🙏☮🎼🎶
Good and useful review . I need an advice. I agree: the action is too high in my SLGN mainly in the lower part of the neck. For me is important because I Play jazz, I will go to the luthier for this. Do you think I need to let regulate only truss rod or to file the saddle and or the nut? Thanks a lot for your reply and suggestions. Francesco
Every one of these guitar is different. the easiest thing to check is the truss rod and then the saddle, the nut can be hard to setup, which is why I left it out of this tutorial . . . 😊
Somewhat unrelated. I find that the SLG200NW is pretty bass heavy. I was wondering if anyone has had similar experience and whether changing the strings (maybe high tension ?) improved the situation. Thanks!
@@guitar-academy Morning my frets are fine I just measured with the rocker fret, the bridge is ok only leads me to believe that it is a tweak to the truss rod action, and that I just received this guitar from Thomman.... Damn... THX
@@guitar-academy Ohh thanks Yes, I have luthier rulers, But now I noticed that the string in question (D) when I play on the twelfth fret is "lying" on the thirteenth fret, and this indicates that the fret is slightly high I'm sure you think? Because of all the strings playing on the twelfth fret, it's the only one on the tenth that is LITERALLY resting on the thirteenth fret, which is the one humming.
I have ordered (it's on the way) a Yamaha SLG200S like the one in this video but (steel strings). My question is, can the action on this particular guitar be lowered like an electric guitar such as a Telecaster?
Thanks great video! I have the slg200s streel string I really really really want to love this guitar as it has a lot going for it, portability, sound etc. But the action and neck profile is a let down on these! I have many guitars and have always managed to adjust the neck and string action, however this guitar has got the better of me! I purchased it used, and I'm curious why you mentioned that if it's used it's a problem? When I got it the action was incredibly high, so I called Yamaha and they mentioned this is by design to cater for people's different preferences. Anyway I made sure the neck was flat, then attacked the saddle and found that I had to reduce it significantly as much as I could go without the strings touching the bridge, but it's not enough as string height is still a little more than I like it! The neck profile is too fat as I like using my thumb over the neck! Also whilst Yamaha engineers have done a great job in simulating a traditional guitar with a sound hole it's not perfect! If you have the volume over half way and play agressively then it creates clipping compressed undesirable sound! What to do, I play live often and if Yamaha addressed these issues it would be a perfect instrument! Also what is strange is that on all my other steel string guitars I use light gage strings and they are a breeze to play, but on the Yamaha silent guitar it feels like I have to work far harder even though I use the same gage strings!
Thank you for sharing your experiences of the guitar. 😊😃 Yes, out of the 2 guitars, I hardly ever use the 'S' version. Yes, I can see why Yamaha would make the action high for all preferences. Because you can lower action easily enough but to higher the action takes shims or a new saddle. No, I've never had the problem with clipping unless my batteries are going flat or I used cheap low powered ones. I've now modified both mine to make the feel better, but I agree there's something about the neck that takes a lot of getting use too. Strangely though, I love the nylon strung one and use it more than any of my other nylon strung guitars because by classical guitar standards the neck is very slim. 😊
@@guitar-academy thanks for the prompt response For me I have had almost a hundred guitars through my hands and this is a winning format! I'd hope Yamaha can further improve on it, possibly future models. I play the guitar live and the sound guy's always tell me to turn it down, I find that vol 12 o'clock works best. I've also experimented with steel strings that have a nylon core, seems to make it somewhat more playable, however they cost more
Hi, before you lower the action, how straight do you make the neck? I see the manual suggests that the neck should be slightly concave (what defines this?)
There's no exact number for this as it depends on how level the frets are and the natural imperfections of the wood. Another thing that will effect the recommended curve and height is how hard you play the guitar and if you use a plectrum. The harder you play the greater the curve and action should be. Because the heel of the neck comes down to around the 12th fret (it's slightly different on the S and the N) the concave only needs to be very slight, 1mm at most 0.5 is better.
Hi, I have a electric guitar and I want to check my guitar neck reliefe but how can I understand which fret should I use to check with feeler gauge? I know I should use capo on first fret and I know I should push with my finger where my guitar body meet with my neck but I don’t know which fret should I use to check with feeler gauge. I hope you can help me.
You'll find lots of different answers to this question because it's different for most guitars. If you can't find the measuring point recommended by the maker, measure halfway between the joint to the body and the nut. This is usually a good measuring point . . 😊
I want to shave the saddle down on my Yamaha SLG200n but it's about 5mm on low E and 2.75mm on high E, can I shave 2mm off and still be fine on a high E side?
Sorry I couldn't answer that without seeing the guitar because it depends how level the frets are and how straight the neck is. I would suggest that if you're not sure get a spare saddle so you can undo it if the guitar buzzes . . I hope this helps 😊
I see a number of people complaining that their headphones and/or the bluetooth feature on the SLG200 are not functioning. Have you had any of these issues?
Great Video! I'm afraid to try this with the original saddle. Could you please tell me what's the correct width of the saddle or which saddle you would buy as a replacement? I already had another saddle with 3.5mm but it doesnt fit. Now I heard that some people recommend graphtech saddles, but I'm not sure if I should go for 3.26mm, 3.15mm or 2.57mm.
there's slight differences in all hand fitted saddles and if your are going to adjust it you'll need callipers or something similar to make exact measurements. So once you got a measuring tool, you would be wise to measure your existing saddle and start from there.
@@guitar-academy Superb video! I've just ordered an SLG200s, and want to order a replacement saddle while this is on the way. Since you're familiar with the guitar, do you happen to know which Graphtech TUSQ saddle models are a reasonable fit for the 200s? Alternatively, what would be your choice of replacement saddle model for yours? Thanks.
