How to Lower Your Nitrate with a Biological Denitrator 

After reading the other reviews, I thought I will give it a try and in the end De*nitrate really works, brings down my 60 gal overstocked freshwater tank from 80ppm nitrate to a constant 10ppm, however it takes a lot more effort, brain and money on top of the product itself to create an ideal environment for it. And I think it's worth it. First you need a few things: 1. A media reactor cylindrical and clear 2. Liquid flow meter 3. Flow control valve 4. A pre-filter 5. An after-filter 6. A submersible aquarium pump 7. Shut-off valves 8. Stainless/plastic hose clamps and strong cable ties 9. Clear aquarium vinyl tubing 10. 50 micron filter pads Then you connect the submersible pump to a shut-off valve, through a pre-filter, then through media reactor, out through the liquid flow meter, through the flow control valve, then finally an after-filter which is a 50 micron polishing pad tied to the end of the tube submerged in the aquarium. You want the flow rate to be at around 35gph consistently. To do that, you will have to adjust the flow control valve once in a while as the pre-filter catches more and more debris while it slows down the flow little by little. A few things need to be taken into consideration: 1. You need a pump that has a flow rate of at least three times of 35gph just to handle the media reactor and pre-filter, then add roughly additional 100gph for 50 micron polishing pad because it slows down the flow significantly. Finally another 50gph as the flow rate gets slowed down little by little in the long run while it catches more and more debris. 2. You need to use your liquid flow meter to read your current flow rate easily and adjust accordingly. 3. Do not cheap out on a pre-filter, make it big, in diameter, not in length. The bigger diameter it has, the longer it takes to slow down the flow significantly hence the longer time periods it provides until maintenance. 4. Put a 50 micron filtering pad inside your pre-filter. This will provide longer working time for your media reactor before it gets clogged up by debris which then it would require a complete rinsing of the media itself. 5. It can be pain in the ass when it comes to the tubing size. The best case scenario would be one size fits all when your pump, your pre-filter, your media reactor, your flow meter all require the same tube size, if not, then you would need multi-hose adapter which adds to the work and cost. 6. Always use clamps in every joint to prevent potential leak. Use plastic cable ties or hose clamps instead of metal clamps for underwater applications. 7. Add shut-off valve at the ins and outs of your pre-filter and media reactor for easy maintenance. 8. After every time you rinse your media, add tiny bit of sugar at the bottom and middle of your reactor as the anaerobic bacteria need a carbon source to thrive. 9. Last but not least, your will need an alkaline buffer and aquarium minerals because once water change becomes less and less often, maintaining a healthy PH and vital minerals level becomes more and more important.

Hey, I recently purchased a Korallin S-1502 sulfur reactor for my reef tank from Marine Depot and I have a few questions about tuning nitrates. I installed my unit with 50% of the Sulfur media & 100% of the calcium media (wasn’t much) in my 15 gallon refugium for my 60 gallon reef tank (~75 gallons total). Here’s the events of what happened so far: -Nitrates in the tank and reactor started at 40ppm -I let the reactor run at 1 drop/second every day & tested nitrates every day -After 8 days nitrates dropped to 2ppm out of the reactor, the tank was still at 40ppm -I let the reactor run for 3 more days at this rate and watched nitrates reduce from 40ppm to 20ppm to 5ppm in the tank, reactor still outputs 2ppm -I increased to 2 drops/second and ran it for one week, nitrates in the tank reduced to match the sulfur reactor, both are now 2ppm. I stopped doing daily nitrate tests as the instructions said I could stop here -Another week went by and the reactor outputs 2ppm, but the tank rose to about 12ppm -I increased the reactor to 4 drops/second -Within one hour my tank was cloudy (I think it’s the bacteria coming out of the reactor) but I left the reactor run anyways for 3 more days without testing -After that I tested nitrates and saw 20ppm coming out of the reactor and the same for the tank -Using the Korallin instructions I backed down to 2 drops/second and tested everyday -After 2 days the reactor output was back down to 2ppm, and the tank back to 5ppm and let it run another week -Now on the 3rd week of install I am facing the same issue, nitrates in the tank rose to 15ppm and I tried increased the flow to 4 drops/second on the reactor - but the exact same thing happened again and the tank got cloudy - I backed down again to 2 drops/second and the tank nitrates are now sitting around 10ppm *I am asking for advice on the best way to proceed so I do not have to “chase” these nitrates when I see nitrates rise Other users mention they increase the drip rate everytime they hit 0ppm on the reactor’s output until they get to a full stream. I only made it to 2 drops/second which seems very low in comparison to others. On the other hand the Korallin instructions (as bad as they are) read as though you will find a “goldie locks” zone where you stop increasing the output once the tank hits a desired level, in my case this was 2 drops/second. Has anyone seen a tank get cloudy while using a sulfur reactor? Should I move the input/output of the reactor directly into the tank instead of the refugium? Moving forward I am considering the following, and appreciate any input -Let the reactor run at 4 drops/second for another ~8 days to see if it bottoms out again. Maybe I didn’t wait long enough? -Add more sulfur to the reactor, it is rated for 150 gallons so cutting the media in half seemed like a good starting point, however this may not work because I don’t have my reactor output fully open. I would imagine one would add more media when the system is running at full throttle and the nitrates still aren’t low enough.

I used this method for 4 aquariums now. Works great.

I know you folks focus on saltwater but can this method also be used for freshwater? I've been controlling nitrates through water changes but would like to move to something like this. I'm just not sure if the water coming out through the sulphur might be fine for a saltwater environment but is not OK for freshwater. Thanks for this video!

How efficient is this? Can you guys do an upgraded video on the denitrator media only?

biopellets, refugium, 20% wc by weekly haa worked for me but id be willing to try some of these new things.

I have the Aquamaxx reactor but do not feel like it's doing anything. Do you have to use a starter culture in it to establish the bacteria? I have water passing through it and its slowly dripping into the sump but still have high nitrates.

Would love to see a video on the setup and operation of the AquaMaxx TS-1 or 2 Sulfur Denitrators

Thanks a lot 😊😊

Why is the CaribSea LSM no longer available to purchase?

I'm a little confused. If sulfur is added as a carbon source for the anaerobic bacteria to denitrify the water then what is providing the carbon source in something like seachem de*nitrate?

Would one of these nitrate reactors work ina cold water fancy goldfish aquarium?

Hello, I have a question sir. If you are using a sulphur reactor, do you still need to dose carbon?

Great video

hi, currently my nitrate is 200 plus and now im using DVH Biopellets with reactor for 3 weeks but ritrate still around 200. Can i use DVH biopellets reactor and de nitrate reactor run together ? does it help ?

What size would I need for a African cichlid 180? Size or model

There should be a video of it in use on a tank update how it works

Also do I need to continue carbon dosing with no pox if I'm using this method?

do you need to change the denitrate??? I have had it in my tank for almost 1 yr and my nitrates are at 2 ppm or less... which I'm not complaining... but wonder if it needs to be changes at some point???

I am putting together a new 36 gallon and its up and cycled with 3 fish. I have a skimmer to hook up and a media reactor and was going to buy somemore stuff when I order the lights but not sure which way to go being I am a newbie and just have a 10 gallon hob before. So far I have about 30 marine pure bioballs in my sump and were bought live in a bucket with live rock. My nitrates have fallen to looks like zero on an api test kit but next color is 5 which is quite a jump isnt it? Should a person stay around 0.03 or something? I dont have any corals yet and I get up leftover food and change filter socks every 3 days and since skimmer isnt hooked I am changing 15 percent water about evry 8 to 10 days. Is it possible that bioballs work so well I dont need anything alse at least now being I have no corals? Probably best to do a wait and see approach and I do have no pox on hand, a brand new bottle that came with the used tank.. I dont need to dose so I guess all I need for now is lights! I have a new paypal zero interest and the more I spend the longer I get to pay it off with zero interest@ haha I just realized that I am also using microbe lift special care. It is sulpur base and nitrate bacteria. I picked it up to go with their other bactria to use after big water changes. Both were on sale for 5 bucks a bottle at petco and and special care is added once a week for a few months then I think once a month so maybe this stuff or the combo is working just fine and very cheap! Stinks to high heaven! haha

Can you use a media reactor to lower nitrates in fresh water tank and use as a hangover the side style?

Any difference between the korallin and aquamaxx denitrators that would make you recommend one over the other?

I can use any media reactor for this correct? If not what is the design difference on these compared to let's say a phosban 150. thanks!

i have a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and looking to upgrade later. my water source has high nitrate level so doesn't matter how many time i do wc, nitrae still high above 40ppm. will this help lower my nitrate problem? what kind of pump will be suited for this denitrator? will it loud?

I click the link to buy the product and it says me to some bogus website?

We will convert NO3 to SO4 and then we need to treat possible H2S gas. Only if Ca carbonate was used not for this purpose to convert SO4 to CaSO4

The pdf instructions are lacking. Can someone please put together an installation video to show how to properly assemble the korallin product?

How long you need to replace Sulphur? Or is it need refilling? Does reacted need to be clean?

where can you buy that from??

What can you do to control the sulfur smell coming out of the denitrator? I'm starting to smell it in my house. My denitrator has been running for about 2 months now.

Hi I watch the video and I'm going to buy some of the products to help lower my nitrates. I have two filters on my tank. I'm doing water changes once a week. And I feed my fish every other day I still having problems with high nitrates. I was wondering if you can help does a UV sterilizer help lower nitrates??

I've had my Koralin denitrator for about 3 months now, and my nitrates are still at 100 ppm coming out of the reactor. At this point I would say don't waste your money, despite the good reviews on the MD website. I posted a fair review, and it didn't seem to make the page, and when I try to update it, it just tells me I've already reviewed this product. I've been buying products from them for over 10 years, but this makes me go hmmmm.

Will these only work with saltwater tanks, or do these work with freshwater tanks also?

what is your opinion for biohome ultimate? can anyone achieve nitrates reduction ?

I'm having major nitrate problems. 160+ using api test kit. I don't have room for a protein skimmer. I did a water change last night and this afternoon went home to test my water and Nitrites are up to 5+ ppm and nitrates 160+ still. the nitrate test results look as red as blood. and nitrites test results are pure purple. When I did the WC last night I tested all the water before putting it in the tank. I did a 80% water change and did not feed with ammonia or anything else. which i'm trying to avoid cause surely there is something in my tank causing the high nitrites and nitrates. I have about 20 lbs of live rock and 40 lbs of dry rock. hob filter. 60 g. tank, two heaters, two air pumps and a wave maker and live sand.. now at lunch I did readjust the wave maker to blow in the direction of the rock in case there isn't good flow. I'm hoping this will resolve it a little bit by the time I get home. I really don't want to do another major water change. but if I have to. I'll do a 100% WC. Plus this is a brand new aquarium. so i think i'm 30 days in the cycling.

I have question regarding seachem denitrate, I have lots that's bean in storage and developed algae over the course of the year. Can I clean the stones by soaking in thin bleach and ro then soaking them in ro and prime? Like purigen? Or is this totally crazy? Thanks

Hello, I've recently installed a sulfur dinitrator. Inside the unit I have zero nitrates and 20 in my tank. From 45. So it's working great but heres my issue. The unit is very cloudy and every drip is cloudy witch is causing the tank to go cloudy. What could be causing this? Tank size 150true gallons but unit is 8"diameter by 18" tall. 2/3 is sulfur and 1/3 crushed coral and dinitrate rocks. Same as video. Please help

Will these type of denitrators work in a cold water fancy goldfish aquarium?

what product would you recommend for a two little fishes 150? the kent marine? i can give extremely low flow off my manifold.

Ok thanks a lot

Do these methods work in freshwater aquariums?

Hey makeba video how set up the biodenitrator pliz pliz im beggin you

Great info. What about vodka dosing (Aquaripure)? I have been using the Aquripure for a couple of years now. the sulfur looks very interesting. Thanks for your videos.

What are your thought on using seachem hypersorb and or purigen in a reactor in stead of the biopellet, etc...

Do u have to add veovit to the system

How do I use a biodenitrator with out skimmer? I have know way to oxygenate my livestock.

Do u have to change out the lms media out

can this be used in freshwater tanks?

I’m anxiously wanting to be successful and maintain a healthy system, how do I increase my bioload?

does this work for freshwater aquariums

I have a question i been using it for 5 months and the water inside the reactor smells like rotten water is that normal?

my experience has been it takes way longer than 3 or 4 weeks to start working more like 6 months to a year

0:47 It says macroalgae but would phytoplankton do the same if you had a lot of it?

So I know you have to keep the flow rate low when using a de-nitrification reactor. But I don’t know why?

Hoping you are still answering questions on this old video. I’m looking at adding a biopellet reactor to my freshwater tank to help with a heavy overstock/nitrate problem. I’m not overly dangerous levels but no matter how many water changes, filter cleans and gravel vacs I can not get my main tank under 50-60. Not unheard of for a cichlid tank and kids the norm really. But would love to use a reactor to balance out to 20-40ppm and reduce water changes. I’ve done tons of research and can not find the proper answer to this.. when running a reactor on a freshwater aquarium do you need a protein skimmer? In the world of freshwater, protein skimming is a DO NOT do and if done a waste of time. As our bacteria work the same but are different species most protein surface film is simply removed with surface agitation and good filtering. I’ve found a couple short non informative comments on people simply running UV filters which I already have and never having any sort of surface buildup. My fear is I know the carbon based media adds tons of waste through its own breakdown and last thing I want to do is have a redox issue cause of a biofilm. I run two canisters with outlets at or above water surface (depends on current state of evap) plus several air stones so I have tons of water turnover around 13x an hour between power-heads and filters and filtering turnover of around 6-7x and hour w/ media. fine filtration like poly and chemipure along with tons of surface agitation. My gut and experience says I simply need a reactor an no skimmer.

👍👍👍

I’m curious to know if this is a proven method?

Should we change this biological media sometimes or never?

Should I run bio pellets while cycling my tank

I mean lms

media looks so much like cheap pumice.

I don't even have a fish how did i get here