@@yungtooli That's crazy taking the already installed seal out just to have to reinstall it again, because it centre's itself naturally over the crank flange whereas the front seal doesn't have anything to center on so yeah I would use the tool in that case.
Yeah, I think it's funny. This process indicates you either have perfect alignment with the crank or the bottom of the block, but not both? It seems if the cover is even with the bottom of the block, it should be engineered to be centered with the crank. Just thinking out loud. Anyone with a moderate understanding of how this should get a good seal should be able to do this without the centering tool.
@@brianross4057 not exactly ive had to do it ttwo tranny drops going for third either its unlined without the tool or the barbell or galley plug is messed up
pssst you everted the seal when you put it on. That lip is supposed to protrude towards the front of the motor not towards the flywheel mating surface. Should have lubed it a bit and twisted it onto the crank surface so it was oriented correctly, before you drove it into the cover.
GM updated the rear cover and they come with the seal installed, upgraded bigger bolts- and no need to fart around with special "3D printed" tools, just order GM part no 12639250 on amazon
By any chance could I get a copy of ur tool g code file and ur printer settings Ive got a ender 3 V2 pro had it about a year but never printed due to not having skills but kinda have no other choice but to learn bc my trans rebuild has taken savings and vacation days away just about n gotta get this seal n trans done so i get rolling again. Please n thank u
Well done sir. Very nice only thing I wished you mentioned was your preferred Technique on oil pan to rear cover bolts. The long ones you only torque to like 9ft lbs… before/after centering crank with a rotation/torquing rear cover bolts…let me know! Either way very nicely executed tutorial.
I’m no mechanic, but why can’t you just put the seal in the plate and then install onto the block,won’t the seal center it instead of your printed tool?
You're 100% wasting EVERYONE's time here messing with all this unnecessary BS.. Put the friggin pan on. Torque it to the block, 18Lb/Ft. Dab rtv in the corner of the block/pan. put cover on with gasket. put all the bolts in but only start them. the 2 bolts nearest the oil pan that go into the block, turn them with a ratchet just until the ratchet offers resistance. YOU DO NOT WANT IT TIGHT.. then go to the pan and tighten the 2 bolts that hold the cover to the pan. you will see it suck up to the pan which is perfectly flat with the block.. idea is to tighten it up just like you would an intake manifold on a V8. 2 bolts on cover, then 2 bolts on the pan until the bolts get tight. now go back and tighten the rest of the cover bolts. I don't care about this little circus that you're doing, it will result in leaks.. and if you do the same thing in the front and the bottom is not 100% flush with the block, you WILL break your pan or you'll have a leak. Oh and HAMMERING in your barbell with a dry o-ring was a real nice touch. Hope you didn't cut that o-ring and send that shit through your engine to plug a bearing orifice or lifter somewhere. LOL Push those in gently by hand.. If you cant, then it's not lubed or something is wrong. Stick to knitting.
What is wrong with you? He is just showing how he did his engine. He is not telling you or anyone this is the only way to do it. If he was wasting your time, stop watching it. Grow up man.