How To Make 12V 15Amp Lithium Battery Without Spot Welding and Soldering 

Welcome

Why?

​@@easytechzones Because yeah, for me, using a huge pipe and molding it into a battery shape was impressive because you were thinking out of the box, for once I thought you used a UPS battery but I was surprised lol

Excellent analysis. Now I understand why my power bank(power bank case purchased at Amazon & battery placed) is not working as the batteries are to be placed in spring holders.

Wow..... good point about the heat! How does this thing charge? Is it a reverse voltage across the two contacts? Ia that how the BMS board's work?

I have such small battery cases. 1 5V and another 12 V. It is ok for small amp. They give 50% current of normal Powerbank but depending of the use, it can be enough and useful. Camping, emergency, radio, lamp, Bluetooth. Even fan. Will not use it for such a project. Maybe such cases with pure copper exist ?

Welcome

Thanks

Solder would be the best option. And if I might add, a better quality crimped fitting would have been the preferred option. Must confess though that the built is great and I shall try a similar battery but with a three times four cell containers like these. Still, great job.

Welcome

Thanks

Thanks

Thanks a lot

Thanks ✌️

Thanks

Thanks a lot!

Thanks

Thanks

Thanks

Ok

@@easytechzones aa Iaa

@@easytechzones Aa

@@easytechzones a

Thankyou

He used cell holders with steel leaf springs, I doubt he cares about any of that. He didn't even charge/discharge all the cells to the same voltage prior to connecting them. Some of them got one hell of a charging current for a couple seconds.

No

Many thanks!

sections of flattened PVC pipe,like he used for the case.

ভাই আপনারা যে এত ব্যাটারি এখন কোথা থেকে আমি সেটা একটু লিংকটা দেন তো

Thanks

Thanks

No, these are 3C cells so with 15Ah capacity the max. power output would be 15x 3=45A. That's not enough to start a car! The 2nd problem are the cheap battery holders which are limited to handle only low currents. Their clamps are made of steel but for higher currents it needs nickel or copper. And the 3rd Problem are his crimp connections. You want full contact between the copper wires and the connector. To fold it backwards and put the heatshrink in between is not a good idea. The resistance is very high at that spot and can pretty hot and if the insulation melts the wire will come loose. For a car battery replacement you want - 8C cells lor lipo pouch cells with 20C or even higher ratings - best siuted are LFP cells because they have better cycle life (up to 3000 charges) - better connections between the parallel cells to handle high current, nickel or copper - thicker wire for serial connections and from cell pack to outer +/- connectors and better crimp connection(without insulation clamped in) But there is a much better way for a car battery replacement. Simply buy 6 super capacitors like Skeleton or Maxwell 3000μF/2,7v, connect them in series using a BMS especially made for a 6S super capacitor battery and that's it. You only need to pre-charge it once and it can be charged and discharged millions of times and can throw out tons of amps. That would probably be the last battery you would ever need in your life time...

@@o.m.2188 Muchas Gracias por la información lo tendré muy en cuenta.

Needed phone number please

Thanks

Same You I Was Thinking That He Should Sold Both Clips.

And never crimp isolation

I used to think same as you guys but the accepted method and preferred over soldering is "crimping" the connectors. I do think however that his crimping was not of best quality. Oversized crimps for his gauge wire for one and the crimp itself was not ideal.

lol, on high current that crap bms will shut down (trip) and in order to make the trip over you need to either charge it or disassemble it. In most of the videos all of these people doing such stuff knows nothing about it. He built the battery without knowing what battery is.

Crimping is always preferred. Crimping is always superior. And when I say crimping I'm talking about with a real crimping tool.

yes

300W claimed power - about 25Amps

Title also says WITHOUT soldering…….plenty of soldering there