Um, Daniel, didn't you make pretty much an identical video just about 6 weeks before? Randomaker did suggest tinning the rail and ends of the supports, a technique I knew from my electronics days. I tried the method of clipping to the board and using pliers to hold and solder, but I got variance that I didn't like. I'm making "gauges" to hold the rails at a fixed distance that should work for curves and loops and spirals, etc. I'm not sure I'll make a video in a hurry, but using 3/16 plywood (from another project) I cut a strip as wide as the gap between rails, then glued it to more plywood, then added strips to either side with wire for spacers. Sand the top layer so the wire top is above the surface. Then cut in little pieces to use as spacers. I epoxied a powerful disk magnet (again, from another project, but I'll be using more for lifts for the ball bearings) to a bit of scrap wood. that got put on the pair of rails to hold the supports in place for soldering. That leaves two hands free to do the soldering.
Using the copper wire might make the vice optional. I used 14 gauge stainless steel, though you have to pull very hard to get it to straighten but it does work you'll need the vice. :)
@@RandomakerYT Yes. I have several. I guess the person didn't like my detailed review of the project. Why is a mystery as I didn't respond with anything negative at all. I left out the personal part about my self and that is I'm disabled. I have root nerve impinchments that limit me to lifting no more than 10 lbs. As the author doesn't really want to inform people I would be adding anything more to this project. And I'll refer you to the other ones out there.
Thank you for making this video. I watched Daniel de Bruin's video earlier and wanted more detail, which you provided. I did not see you use the flux. What kind do you use? one suggestion: When you complete a section and show it to the camera, please hold it still for a second, especially when you are going to speed up the video. I often stop the video to look closer, but it is hard to stop it at the right instant. Again, thanks.
The solder I was using is flux core solder so it has rosin flux in it already, but you might want to use some extra flux because it didn't stick too well. I may have used a flux pen a little bit, I can't remember.
I just watched your video again and I have one suggestion. Please put something, maybe a sheet of foam core board behind your work. It is difficult to see with the pegboard and tools in the background.
ok, so there are some points that really bothers me: - Quality of most video scenes is bad. You should work on that for the next video. - For my case I find the music displeasing so I muted the video. - This video is a copy of Daniel de Bruins video what is brazen, because you just used his techniques and don't give him any credits! But also good work with your marble run!
I see that you pre-tinned all components to be soldered, which is in contrast to Daniel de Bruin's method. I wonder which is the stronger result. Pre-tinning has some merit as there seems to be less oxidation because the heat is applied for a shorter duration I think? Any comments from anyone about the best way to achieve a strong and aesthetically pleasing soldered joint? Also, is copper "better" than galvanised steel? Thank you for any constructive comments.
Not sure about the tinning, I just did that because I didn't have a good way to hold the parts while I soldered, this way I could just tack one side and then go back and solder the joints correctly. I will say the solder joints didn't hold up very well at all, they kept falling apart. I just used copper wire as it is what I had. Steel would probably be stiffer which would be a plus, but I can't imagine solder would stick to it very well but I could be wrong.
Thanks for the advice. Soldering properly is actually quite difficult to achieve. If not done well a "cold solder" happens and the join is not strong. Stainless steel requires special flux and treatment, but galvanised steel also needs care because the zinc coating is not great for soldering. Uncoated copper wire may be best. I think the secret is to abrade the wire (to clean it and take off any surface coating), use flux, apply a really hot iron to the metal, then introduce solder and let it flow to follow the heat. Short but hot is better than cooler and longer methods, otherwise oxidation becomes a problem and the joint fails. I wonder what tips others might have out there?
I measured one of the marbles I used and they are just over a half inch, so I think that could stay the same. If anything you may need to make the connectors slightly smaller.
This channel simply finds other popular videos, duplicates them, and attempts to pass the ideas off as his own. Please give it a thumbs-down and let other people know as well. Original video is great, and it's right here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kPguktA674w.html
If you would have looked at my other videos you would have seen that this is the only video where I copied the idea from another RU-vidr. I have a section in the video description saying that this is not my idea and there is even a link to the original video, so I'm obviously not trying to get anyone to think this is my idea. please give this guy's comment a thumbs down😀
