I tried this, but I did something a little different. I purchased a 3 in diamter ball bearing , I 3d printed a 2 3/8 half sphere, and used 2in ID pipe. I started pressing it with the ball bearing, then ,once it deflected the top of the pipe away, I pressed in the 3d printed half sphere. The result was awsome. I bolted it to a lose exhaust manifold and poured water on the inside of the pipe between the two surfaces. It didn't leak. You need to start with the ball bearing or the pipe tears into the plastic. I used PLA+.
Needed to flare 4" exhaust pipe flared for a game feeder and your video put me to thinking did not have a 41/2" steel ball so used a 3" to 5" weld pipe reducer worked great they use them a lot in pipe lines and you can find them in the scrap metal yards pretty cheep Thanks for taking to time to do the video.
I think I would heat up the end of the pipe (flared end) with a torch, right before you start the flare. Not red hot, but hot enough to make the metal more malleable. Not so hot that you change the hardness of the metal. And then I would probably put a little oil on the steel plate that you used to flatten out the flange. Just my $.02. Like your videos. I watch hundreds, probably thousands, of videos concerning Mercedes, and I like yours enough to subscribe to your channel. I have and work on my own 2006 CLK500 Coupe and I figure, learn as much as you can wherever you can.
Hi Jose Peixoto! I wish I could take credit for the fabrication, but I purchased it on Amazon. I'll put links in the description for you. Oh, the tow ball will do the trick, but if you need to flare large pipe then I think the steel bearing is a good option as well
Nice video man. The idea though is you use a flare and a straight pipe or inverse flare together, and use two flanges to hold them sealed without a gasket.
Nice process, can even be used for those "flare and ball" exhaust fittings. If you keep pressing the ball down, the pipe will form around it, it won't just keep flaring out. One cheaper way of doing this would be to make a rectangle out of some U-channel steel, and use a regular car jack for pressure. I am not sure how much it takes, but most likely not all 20 tons. Still, at least now you have a press for any other projects. Would be great for next time you need to replace a bearing in something. Lastly, the ball and the pipe won't slip out AS LONG AS everything is square. If the pipe piece is too long and starts bending, then you will have problems as the force will be directed outwards. Same for an angled cut on the pipe, it will re-direct the load. Lubricating the ball would also make the process easier and safer, as it will reduce required forces.
Hello Jeff Lee, I believe for a V band clamp the pipes are kept straight and the collars are welded in place for the clamp. I don't think making a flare would work. If you have a ring gasket then making a flare on the lip of the exhaust pipe would work because then you can use the flare tip with two flanges to create a tight seal around the ring gasket. I hope this helps. Cheers!
Hi Ironwill04, That is an amazing idea! I've never heard, nor thought about doing something like that. With ideas like that, is that where you get your name from? :) Cheers!
I dont think flares go together like that.. with a gasket? You flared it too flat and if you used an exhaust expander after then you can slide the other pipe inside the other and seal with a u bolt.. otherwise youd need one of those special clamps to make the gasket idea work.,
Hello Z Ack, you make a good point. I am currently using a flare that is slightly on the flat side with a metal ring gasket and there are no leaks. Ideally a flare of 45 degrees would work best, but really it depends on the application and specifications.
I know a better, cheaper way. How about just buying the thing? Considering I don't have the saw or the press, the flared pipe would be cheaper to buy. 🤪
Hello Rigo Rangel! You make a good point if the tools aren't available. In my case, I couldn't find a decent part already made with the flare. It was either too small, too large, or didn't come in the material I wanted it in. With this setup, there is more control over materials and specs. :)
@@GarageDynamics if you have a shop and is something you do regularly and will be doing often then you are right and or if you already have the tools. But for most people that don't have the tools, it maybe cheaper to have someone work their exhaust system. None the less very interesting, I would think instead of flaring nicely as it did, it would break specially if the metal is not heated. But as you demonstrated that's not the case. 👍. Cheers 🍻
@@bajaboy27 I agree with you. If it's a one time thing then it's better to just order the thing, or go to an exhaust shop. I thought so too! I guess the size of the ball has something to do with shaping the metal without heat. Cheers brother!
