Not trying to be a jerk or any thing but you could have saved yourself a lot of time and effort just by using the axle from an old chain drive riding lawn mower they already have an identical set up as what you made and a lot lighter
I would think if you are building a differential for the rear drive of a cart, building it as a limited slip differential would yield the most improvement.
I watched this when you built it and I have to say it has truly grown on me. I have been looking to purchase one of these and the places I looked may have had them but what name would you call it. Finally I came back and found your video and now to try and build it. Two years ago I did not even own a lathe and now I have restored one and then found a really great refurbished one in a grandfather's basement. Thank you.
Lawn mower differentials are geared WAY TOO LOW, just stick to a solid rear axle and CVT, you’ll have to do a bit to them before u can make them work for a long period of tome
my immediate reaction: go karts dont need a diff, youll lose all the power because you (almost) lift the inside tire causing the diff to send all the power to it. the I saw the "Go karts" , yeah go for it
You did a very nice job building that diff. BUT, even though you added a grease fitting for the interior parts, if you have a bearing failure, you will have to cut it open to replace the bearing. Also, the welding heat draws the metal such that the internal parts down run true, thus causing increased wear. That's my opinion. Welding should only be used so far. I believe yours was excessive.
from an engineering perspective i would agree. but welding was the easy way out, and i wasnt sure yet how good the diff would work. if i would make one again i would use bolts like you say :)
Love the idea but damn those inner bearings arent gonna last very long and will be a bitch to try and change. Ive had a need for a small diff like this for a while now so good to know its possible. Now i just need a lathe.
It works because the differential also allows the non driven wheel/axle to go faster than the driven axle. The driven wheel will always have power, but momentum will push the non driven axle faster through turns.
Interesting homemade diffy. I think the spider gears are going to wear the inside of the tube and disengage early. You may want to add thrust washers between the spiders and the tube. Looking fwd to seeing your other vids.
@@dangerdylan5005 When you turn the steering wheel on a go kart, the outside front wheel raises up, lowering that side of the kart, while the inside front wheel lowers. (ie while turning the steering wheel to the right, the kart rolls to the left (same roll direction happens when you drive a car in a turn. But in Karting it happens even when you're stationary) ) This makes the outside rear wheel to carry more of the overall weight, and the inside wheel carries less. Now during a turn the inside rear spins faster than it needs to (since there's no differential), and the fact that it's jacked up means that it is free to rotate faster without affecting the stability of the kart or wearing off the tyre too badly. This can only be achieved in karts, since they drive on smooth asphalt. Karts have great power to weight ratios because they forgo suspensions and differentials. They get away with not having a diff by chassis flex and jacking.
@mxrider2strokebraaap54... As with all things, the question isn't whether or not an item is made at home. Rather ask the questions such as does it actually function? How well does it function? How long does it last? I say to ask these questions because all too often you find things look great on video but when it comes time to put them to use? They fall apart immediately or are otherwise non-functional. Give me the substance over style every day of the week and twice on Sunday. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
why's it's typical stuff in R/C cars diff...which strips, wears out. when it slips....slips..you might as will do NONE live ax. or jamm ear plug in it...lmao Most people shim it and or FILL it with super duper THICK OIL...to make sure it works. What he should do is mount another CLUTCH with different gear ratio for a SECOND GEAR..to get the low end torque and retain top speed. It's actually simple..if you have the tools to mill and weld the parts. The clutch is on the axle sort of like drum brake.
Thenujaya Warnakulasuriya thanks, the parts from pretty much any diff will work. Its best to take a diff from a very small FWD car, then the gears are smaller but still plenty strong for a go kart.
There's no way throwing a diff on a kart is something new. However if you can make a full size car that jacks the rear inside wheel up in the air while cornering- now that would be a true novalty :)
Not a huge fan of your choice of music (Mostly the so-called manipulated vocal stuff, 🤯🥴) BUT I'm Huge Fan of your Outstanding work and ideas, Again well done and executed!!!
Good work other than potentially frying the bearings, not allowing any maintenance since there is no way other than grinder to open it, those bearing do not have way to get oiled and grease only have one way out, the bearing seals. Also grease will hamper gears working so its stiffer that could be beneficial in this setup but it should be stiff oil instead.
R.I.P those sealed bearings haha😂 good build though would have liked to see a more serviceable style i.e. with flanges or some sort of bolted mounting instead of welding in some areas but taking into consideration that looks like it was made out of scrap and a couple of new things works well for what it is nice work
I did notice that... perhaps push the bearings into the housings then the assembly onto the shaft? That way, with the right bushings turned up, it wouldn't stuff the bearings.
It seems that if the side gears were beveled the other direction and the spider gears were swapped so the taper faced out instead of in that you could eliminate the housing around them. Do they not make them this way because its hard to make gears that way or because the teeth would be weak? In your case the housing holds the grease in, but in road vehicles there is a larger housing already around them.
The concept is great, I would recommend making flanges for the whole setup so you can replace parts and adjust gear mesh with shims, especially if you are going to put a good amount of power in to it, just an idea I’m sure this is going to work for you and it’s fairly cheap 🏁👍🏻
Well being that all of the drive parts are still car diff gears as well as the spider gear shaft it should be more than any go cart you could put it on.
I actually sold a quad I had for 40mins and bought a road legal buggy straight after as the quad did not have a diff and wanted to push me out of corners
let me rant a moment. the two and a half minute beginning pontification was total crap. there i said it. the diff build was awesome! that is what i clicked here for. leave your dreams at home dude. bring your skills to the shop!!
9:30 at first I thought what a stupid id to drive one of the safts and hoping that some power will find they way to the other side. But your solution is GREAT!!!! Salute my friend!
Unfortunately that differential probably won’t last long. An important piece of the puzzle is that the bearings inside the differential housing are tapered bearings, so they not only support radial load, but also resist axial thrust. As the differential is required to split the rotational needs of each wheel, axial load will be applied through the spider assembly to the bearings. Plain ball bearings will fail as these loads are applied, eventually allowing the spider gears to slip in the housing. Otherwise it’s a very nice piece of diy.
Well, if you don't want to build your own, or don't have all the materials, for the price of the raw materials and a scrap diff, you can just buy a Peerless differential. They are out of riding tractor/mowers and you can bolt a sprocket to the side of it, with only adding a couple holes to your sprocket to match the pattern. I used on in my 1800W power wheels build.
Man, that was painful to watch. Several things for anyone else trying to attempt this: - Gears should be shimmed so that they have proper engagement. - It looks like your spider gears are riding against the tube? That's going to fail quickly. - Holes should be machined AFTER welding. Welding will warp the outer material and misalign the holes. - Diffs use gear oil, not grease. - If you screw up a part to where you are resorting to using a can as a shim, remake that part. If your tolerances are so close that parts aren't fitting, freeze the inner part, heat the outer. - Use thrust bearings. The bearings you used are not made for axial loads. - At least one side of your axle needs splines. This allows the axle to move laterally and prevents lateral forces on the side gears. - Diffs heat and cool and therefore need a vent. - Rotating parts should be balanced. This is a lot of unbalanced rotating mass. - Drilling upside down does not prevent chips from entering a hole. You need a way (diff cover) to inspect and clean the inside after machining. - Use gear marking compound to make sure there is correct engagement on the gears. - Just follow the design of an automotive diff. There are reasons for why they are designed that way! Or just buy the commercially available diffs and save yourself time and money lol.
Not to be "that guy", but you should probably have seated those bearings in the opposite order to obtain maximum support for the bearing race on both pressings. Probably won't matter as there's not a crazy amount of speeds involved, and waaaaay better than most (who just pound them in) fabs I've seen on YT :) Aaaanyway, definitely a sub from me.
I could see the runout in the video. Dial Indicator usage, using a machined surface for referencing on the chuck, design that allows disassembly, bearing face or thrust bearings for the spider gears... these would have made for a FAR better differential. Not trying to piss in your cheerios, just I see this diff vibrating your teeth loose and failing soon.
Great idea, but too much welding! I would have made the housing longer and the bearing carriers (and sprocket mount) bolted in aluminum - easier to machine.
Молодец ! Не побоялся никакой глупой мелочи в своей работе.. Всё сделано из мусора, из того что нашёл..как сумел это сделать без понтов своими руками и мозгами . но, с какой искренностью сремления достичь этого желаемого отличного результата на выходе .Всё просто, гениально и доступно , и главное не лениться и не надеяться на кого-то... Я уважаю таких простых без понтов ребят !
Nice project. but please. don't press bearings like U pressed outer side. force go trough bearing and causing damage. if u r pressing outer side, u must press it directly in outer steel part. this way u don't stress bearings..
now how i understand a diderrenscho is for tanks but how thay are in cars ? i understand how a tank can drive with it but man how does a car drive with that ? one whel is turning clockwise and the other counter clockwise
