Making a lead screw it is not difficult. If you know one little trick, and that's what I show you in this video, enjoy. How to indicate a All Thread Video on RU-vid • Video
Little did I know that seven years later I would need this tutorial on making lead screws. Not sure why I haven't received updated videos from you but thank you for the investment in others future.
Really enjoying some of your techniques and work around for guys like me with a manual lathe and mill. Helping me think outside the box to solve problems. Thanks Dale.
I know that I'm a lurker by some standards. But 30 years in Electronics and many of the things I fixed had electro-mechanical systems. I don't know if you would be interested or want to help but this is on par with the lead screw video. I'm a disabled veteran and I have started a Woodworking shop in my garage. I purchased 3 pieces of equipment from a man several years ago. A DeWalt miter saw, works. A Craftsman table saw, was dropped on the motor side. I was able to get the pivot pins backed out of the motor support. Complete disassembled, removed rust, motor and arbor bearings, alignment, link belt and it runs perfect. Just saying where I'm at in the process. Alas the Craftsman planer-jointer is a different story. On the infeed table side there's a lead screw that raises and lowers the table. The cam is broken into 5 pieces of aluminum. My Son is a welder and he couldn't fix it. Just melted. It's also the FIRST piece to be snatched up on EBAY. 1) Are you or someone else willing to help me? 2) Can it be made out of steel? It has a center screw hole, a cone shaped hole and a straight hole. If someone made 10 of them they could make some money on EBAY. The first thing to break and is unavailable.
Funny thing is I just fabricated a screw the same way ...and just ran across your video. welded and turned the end to developed the shoulder for the bearing ...Also used a bearing bronze nut inserted in the end to take up the wear in the cast iron nut ...very tight and smooth ...thanks for what you do
Dale great idea. May I suggest another possible way. Cut the lead screw material maybe one thousandth over the diameter of the material that is going to be used to make the shoulder. If you can get some "dry ice" (or just small bucket of water & ice & a small amount of salt added, to increase coldness, or if you have access to some liquid nitrogen) Put your lead screw in the ice bucket for approximate 5 - 10 minutes, then very quickly remove lead screw from the ice solution, and hand push the shoulder material onto the lead screw, when it (the lead screw) reaches room temperature, it will expand back to give a great very tight fit. I would guess that if you had access to liquid nitrogen, you would be able get 3 {three thousandth's} maybe as much as 5 (five thousandth's) difference in diameter. When I worked at a major airplane manufacture here in the Pacific Northwest, Washington state, they did this to some of the rivets on the wings, and when they (the rivets) reached room temperature, it sounded like a guy swinging a 40 lb's sludge hammer against the wing. The first time I heard that noise, I ducked down to the ground, and lying there looking / waiting for something to fall. Heard about five more and was able to figure out what was going on. Plus the guy with the big silver mitts (to protect from the liquid nitrogen) was a dead give away.
Nice work! I prefer soldering, but loctite on a tighter fit would be just as good without having to heat. But you knew that already, of course. While turning acme threads is fun..........this was the best solution for a number of reasons. Thanks for the video!
Actually, this was kinda helpful. I've got some drive motors for an car seat adjustment system that have trapezoidal screw shafts. I need to use them in a robotics project, and I had thought about soldering on a shoulder for a bearing, but I wasn't sure how practical that might be. This gives me a little more confidence.
Good job! An example of a job that is not at all complicated but VERY critical. Since the sleeve actually serves no mechanical purpose other than a spacer, I would have just turned the shaft a half thousandth oversize and pressed it on. Still, it never hurts to know how to solder.
Inspiring video, Dale. It's got me thinking about fixing some of my own sloppy machines, plus rethinking how to economically fabricate a shoulder on my current project.
Hi Dale, greeting from Charlotte, N.C. I made a lead-screw similar to yours for my 1980 Kent surface grinder except mine was 10 TPI ACME left hand threads. I chose to machine it complete from mild steel with slightly oversize pitch diameter to compensate for wear in the bronze nut, which I didn't replace. Keep 'em coming, I'm still learning.
That was positively the video I needed see. I am POSITIVE that I need to make a new lead screw/nut for my cross slide. I am POSITIVE, I did not want to turn Acme threads until I fixed the cross slide. I am POSITIVE, I will be using your technique to make what I need. In all seriousness, I hope I can "Build Something That Cool" for my lathe. Great video.
Another way (I used for the cross slide screw on my South Bend) is to simply cut the original at the end of the shoulder, bore it to just under the minor dia of the new threads. Turn down new leadscrew to tight press fit (insert to whatever length you bored) inside the old bored end, and then secure with bearing sleeve retainer. No heat...
The first shop I worked in bad 2 of those Howa brand lathes. They're the most comfortable lathes I've ever used. Everything is at a easy to reach area and smooth as glass.
I like your style. You focus on one point at a time but, don't belabor your points. You get in, say your piece and then cut the lecture. Clean. Very clean.
Well I have to say it's depressing to see that there are just as many nit picking squawkers complaining about really not important "issues" here as elsewhere. Gives me some admiration for the folks who post these videos. I think I would get discouraged with the amount of comments that are??? Seems like these people only watch how to videos to tell the poster what they did wrong. Usually in a very derogatory way. I don't know if it was always like this or the current political climate has made people feel like common curtesy is no longer required. Not that this particular video has that many nasty comments but I just watched a few other of Dales videos and some of the comments there were... Good video Dale, gave me another way to skin the cat.
Great idea, much easier than cutting the thread yourself. If that unthreaded section isn't needed you could have shouldered the bearing directly to the turned down thread. I would always have been taught to use a silver/hard solder but a soft/lead solder in this application is perfect, good call.
Great video. When you said solder I thought you were going to brake or hard solder but then I realized that the collar wasn't under severe torque, just supporting the bearings and collars.
Dale . . . I'm a new member to your channel. I don't have a shop right now but will is the future. That's a neat trick you used. It would have taken me some thinking to come up with such a simple and clever idea. Thanks for sharing! If this is just of the kinds of videos you put up, then I am in the right place. As a novice "machinist", I have a lot more to learn. There are a lot of great guys on RU-vid that I have learned from. I know I will learn a lot of tips and tricks of the trade from you. Thanks again. Have a good one! Dave
Cool, as always there is a lathe in our shop with enough slop that I won't even try to chase thread's with it. Thanks for the tip and I'll be looking for the nut video.
Enjoyed watching this video Dale. I'm like you, not much of a super glue kinda guy, more of a solder guy too. I liked how you then turned down to match the original, I don't think I would have thought to do it that way. Very clever.
I am working converting my small milling machine to CNC . I just bought lead screws.. if I watched this video before I should Have done it myself.. may be next time. Thanks for the video
Nice video. Need to do the same on my 1954 Cincinnati lathe. Would be nice to know the type of solder and temp you were seeking. Also, notice the soft jaws, probably copper pipe? Subscribed!
Novel way to "fill in" the threads. Thanks for the tip. I was a bit worried when I didn't see any heating of the shaft for the soldering. It seemed to work, though. Sometime I'd like to see a solder joint like that milled away so we could see just how far the solder penetrated without heating the shaft. (Even a tiny bit of penetration should suffice in this application.)
+Peter W. Meek Good Point. I edit out some of the soldering to shorten the video. It took about 4 min to heat it up. Convection heated up the shaft. it was plenty hot for the solder. Thanks for the great comment.
Great video Dale. Thanks for sharing. I noticed you use a few different types of carbide inserts to turn that part. I would love for a video explaining the different types, and where to use those different types of Carbide tools.
I agree. I'd have made the collar an interference fit, and sweated it on. If I felt I needed even more security (probably not necessary in this case), I'd have cross drilled a few times, and lock-tite'd in some pins, them turned down the sleeve to finished size. I'm not a bit fan of solder, for torsional loads.
The solder was a good idea, however if you really needed to hold it in place, say due to the stress on the shoulder, I would suggest using JB Weld for the formatting substance.
I would have made a press fit instead of the soldering but I guess it's another way of doing it. Would love to know what it takes to break the solder in a hydraulic press against other methods like Super glue and other methods mentioned in the comments. Great videos BTW.
bluehandsvideo That's cool, I'm going to be there next week. I thought it would be fun to come by your shop and say hi. But my schedule just changed, and Im not going to be able to make the time. Maybe on my next visit to portland.
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry) That would be very cool!! It would be great to meet you in person! Everyone says the shop looks a lot more impressive in the vids. lol Definitely keep it in mind for your next trip. :)
I think it would have been easier to press the sleeve on and pin it, but hey, different strokes. Thanks for the video! I've got some minor repairs to make on an enco 92010 that I stole a few days ago. I'll be watching your vids to get amped up! Keep up the good work!
Thanks Dale, I have a very very, did I say very old lath where the cross slide screws are worn so I have been looking for a method to replace them, looking forward the how you do the nut as that really is the part that is worn on my old lathe
I have used silver solder alone on the lathe to build up a worn shaft then turn back to size. Kinda messy but worked well. Great if you miss your measurement by a thou or two assuming the solder is hard enough for the intended purpose., ie shaft running through a bearing race.
Nice job Dale! To avoid the issue that may arise from heat would not a light press fit and Loctite have been a better option? You are doing good with the Friday tips and should be close if not beyond the point where this has become habitual and thus past the hard part. Congrats!
Hi Dale, this is great! I need to make a new compound lead screw for my SB Heavy 10 and never thought of using all thread and solder - awesome technique, thanks!
Good insight into smart engineering solutions. My concern is about how strong is the bond between the hollow sleeve and the rod on which it was fitted?
I don't think you have made any mistake by naming your video like this. There are many different recepies to make the same food or a pice of furniture or... You could use different methods to attack a leg to the chair, and no matter how you attack it, the name of it is how to " leg.....chair " :) Dont listen to people who's hubby/hope/life.....is about finding something to bring others down. There is a reason those who have enough power and money call some of us for useless eaters...:) Ya I know harsh words. sorry! Anyways. Love your video's, and I am fan. Keep them coming and in the same time keep getting better and teach us how to do the same :)
Interesting -- what was the nut made from? I've pulled screws off machines that were not bad, but the nut was TRASHED. The screw in that case was steel, the nut was bearing bronze.
Wish I had a lathe like that. Accidentally bought unmachinned lead screws for my cnc, so now I need new ones. It will be cheaper than paying someone to do it where I live.
love your videos, I have learned quite a bit from watching them, even the stuff you don't cover In detail, I have picked up better methods of going about solving a problem from watching you, keep up the good work and wear your PPE!
While I did watch this to find out how to make a lead screw from scratch I found it instructive all the same. Sometimes you just don't need to reinvent the wheel. I do have a question regarding the solder. It looked to be regular plumbing solder-was it?
Nice job! Wouldn't an alternative also be to cool the shaft and heat the sleeve in order to get a secure fit? That might work even without glue or solder.
positive comments I really enjoy your lessons it would be nice to see you make a foundry and make a part and then machine it .and thanks for making these video's
Hi,If you need something with more strength you could you have put a thread in your sleeve, screwed it on the all thread with Loctite and maybe put a set screw in it.
