Great idea, especially the locking mechanism! A trick I’ve learned when tapping holes in wood, is to put a drop of thin CA glue into the holes to stiffen the wood fibers before tapping. Spritz a little accelerator too. Haven’t had any screws wallow out yet.
I've spent the last few days looking at zero clearance insert videos for my shiny new 7491. Yours was the best video hands down. I especially like the way you showed different blade configurations for it, because I also bought a dado stack, so i need to build several inserts for different thicknesses. I don't have an oscillating tool to use for the notches so I'll use my Dremel tool (er... my store-brand version of a Dremel... ). Loved the effects at the end. Thanks for the awesome video!
Thankyou! I have one other video on making inserts that may be helpful in case you haven't seen it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BPmVncv9fWM.html
Thanks for this! I was just struggling to make a throat plate for mine last week. Same general approach as you, but mine was very poorly executed! I picked up some great tips here and will make another attempt this weekend. Look forward to more of your videos!
This is probably a little late but instead of screwing the lock slides to the underside you could use wood glue or ca glue and then it wouldn't matter if the blade hits it, then it really would be one size fits all. 😉 great video also btw!
same thinking, can use epoxy or polyurethane. instead of scroll saw, hit the edge with router using bottom tracking bit, following the existing newly made insert edge. Router can carve epoxy without trouble.
Great tips! Welcome back. Suggestions if I may- how about one on your vac set up? And your dual saws? I haven’t figured out how you keep the fence parallel on wide cuts.
Thanks! The lock is an option. I don't have a lock on my main saw but the insert on that saw is a very tight fit. These inserts have a little play and the lock doesn't let them rattle around. I have another video on my channel where I make 5 different types of inserts for this saw if you're interested. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BPmVncv9fWM.html
Another ace vid Tony with all the workshop excellence and editing skills I associate with Slow and Expensive. Very enjoyable mate, thank you. Incidentally, where can I get one of those one-shot-hacksaws? I could really use one of those...
Nicely done. As for the locking mechanism on the leading edge of the insert- I haven’t used one in 15 years. It’s the back end that I want locked with even just a simple tab to keep the blade from lifting the back end of the insert off the table. At the front edge the rotational force of the blade holds the insert down. Just my .02😎
I just re-read your article about this to refresh my memory from reading it one year ago and came back to re-watch your video. Found this newer video and it is fantastic. I have a new DW7490 and will be trying to make these for it. May I ask if you have more info or comments to make about using 2 or 3 of the 7 1/4 blades on this saw which according to the manual will not take a dado blade? Like you I want to slot drawers for 1/4" bottoms as well as grooves for 1/4" hardboard dividers. Thanks for taking the time to read this rather long post.
Thank you! If you have any old 7 1/4 blades you may find a combination that works. The three that I use for drawer bottoms (5.2mm) are as follows: 24t Irwin framing blade (inside) 60t Diablo ultra finish (middle) 40t Avanti fine finish (outside) Many blades vary in width by type and manufacturer so stacking different blades will slightly vary the width of the groove.
Just watched this video; best I've ever seen!. It's the only one that I've found that mentions the lock-down device. Also, Bevan Stuart mentions "your article". Where is this article?
On the locking mechanism, you put the wood “lock” flush with the front and the screw also all the way to the front. That won’t allow the locking mechanism to go forward anymore and therefore not locking the plate.
The dimensions: the two side pieces are 5/16" wide x 1/4" x 2" long. The lock is made from 1/4" plywood and is 2" long x 1 1/8" wide and then there is a small piece of wood that is glued to the 1/4" plywood part is a 1/4" tall x 5/8" wide x 1 1/2" long. I hope that helps. Sorry it took so long to respond. I didn't get a notification about your comment and just found it today :)
I made a different video that shows how I did it. I had to cut a notch in the knife but it does come off the Dewalt saw so I'm not sure if you can do the same with the Metabo. Good luck! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BPmVncv9fWM.html
I have been working on a zero clearance insert for my (cheap) table saw and found some features in yours that I will probably incorporate into mine. I was really impressed with your mechanism to lock the insert into place. I like using the 7-1/4 thin kerf blade and have had a few problems making a splitter just a bit thinner than the blade. Making it out of wood makes the splitter way too weak. How did you mount the metal one you have on your 7-1/4 blade insert? Thanks for a great video.
Hey Mike, I used a simpson strong tie metal bracket and screwed it on with 1/2 screws. The width matches the diablo blades I use perfectly.I don't use that particular insert very often but if I did I might be inclined to add a little glue as well just to insure it wasn't able to vibrate loose. This video shows the build and there is also a link for the bracket in the video description. You can get it at the home depot for a couple bucks. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Terrific video and the doWhat gig. A couple of questions: What are all these different types of blades you are using? The only blade I know of is the 10" single blade and the dado stack (which doesn't work with many of the Dewalt saws). In particular, I did not know that they make a 1/4" thin kerf blade. I have a glue line, thin kerf blade from Freud and it is 1/8".
Thank you! They are 7 1/4" circular saw blades. The kerf varies from blade to blade but is around 1/16". Some inserts have splitters, some are blade only, and some are for dados. I use smaller blades most of the time on my small saws. Dust collection works better and the saw doesn't have to work as hard to spin smaller thinner blades. Cut depth is limited but all else is golden. The little dado stack at the end of the video is three different 7 1/4" blades stacked. I use this setup for making drawer bottom grooves. The 7491 saw does take a regular dado stack up to 13/16". There is a link in the description for the video making the 5 different types of inserts if you are interested.
actually, there are specific dewalt model of jobsite table saws are made with long arbor spindle and handle dado blades. if yours cant, then you bought the table-saw with short arbor spindle.
I think it would be a whole lot easier if they made the hole with 90 degree ends. Rounded may not catch the work piece as easy, but then if made correctly a square edge would not as well.
Once the glue has set up, you dont need the screws, so you can remove the not important hold screws that hold parts together, becuse most sawblades are carbide tiped today you can use aluminum screws these wont wreck a blade i slso think you could do a hold down with plastic parts only home made. Maybe use parts off a plastic soda bottel. Or just a washer shaped as a cam lobe and 1 screw. With a stop carving into the incert. Not reak smart using a metal splitter system unless its bolted to the table saw. You can glue thin plywood parts into the blade kerf. Or buy the micro jig splitter system. These use different push in plastic parts for thin or fat blades. Me I dont own a dewalt table saw, ive got the porter cable version Both saws were made by Stanly tools. Both were made in the same factory in twain. I also have a Jet hybrid with cast iron wings and a Grizzly cabnit saw. No one makes a incert plate for the 2017 version of the proshop II jet And ive got sevral incerts plates from grizzly for my saw they are still being sold even though the saw is close to 20 years old. All these tools were made in the same factory in Taiwan.
Try using less metal parts and more plastics. Lowes and home depot have speclity finiture screws and some are plastic, if you hit metals with a spinning blade you risk dammage to the blade or a bullet flying at your head should the blade hit it. Plastic just going to get cut. You could also use a soft non ferris metal like brass, copper or aluminum but plastics are a better option. Even the adjustment screws on the edges. My porter cable saw i put my blade guard on the saw fliped on the saw and got hit 1/2" away from my eye with the guard as it came off the saw at 100mph i wasnt even cutting anything yet hadnt put on my safty glasses yet. Always stand to the side of the table just turning on the saw. Even a brand new blade can toss a carbide tip if it wasnt welded on right and its moving 100 to 200 mph off the blade fast enough the go into you skin. You do not know how the blades been treated before you got it or if your kids have knocked it off the nail it hung on the wall with. Just a basball can dammage a blade. Same rules as grinding stones. You put a lot of rmp's on a tool spinning it can fly apart. You dont want to be in the way of flying parts.
Instead of making several inserts with different kerfs, you could make an insert insert. Easier shape, less material, less storage. Please do not say 'perfect'- there is no such animal. (It is a Platonic absolute.) You want it to be 'fit for purpose'.
