LaingEj, you are unbelievable! I am going to RC my trolling motor with many of your ideas! You did a fabulous job of engineering! Even inserting a small PWM to limit the speed of the the gear motor was truly ingenious! Thank you for documenting your construction. It is invaluable! Sir, My hat is off to you!!
Thank you for being so helpful, all the detail information really helps the community. Love the fact you demonstrate and share how and why. Super useful information. 🙏
BIG THUMBS UP! I recently released an hour long step by step video on how to build a similar setup and made sure to link to your video. Thanks for the great ideas!
Great videa,I had already put this to thought since I happen to have the motors and gear box from a power wheel I got from a dump run from a job years back. So this video is going to help with my setting up kayak as cheap as I can. I think this will help with a pole anchor set-up with the other power wheel gear box. I had pick up four motors with gear boxs. Great video
On a different note- You made me get a 20hp lol!! I was going to go with the 9.9 and modify like you, but cost-wise it didn't make much financial sense. I actually ended up selling an older 15hp Johnson and then found a used 2014 DF20A EFI in really good shape. I found it had everything still original including impeller which was shot, but overall in good shape, (seemingly) it looks like very few hours were put on it. I already ordered the diagnostic kit so will know total run time and hours soon. Only thing that scares me is it still has the original timing belt, which as you know, is a 4yr service life (regardless of hours). Thoughts?
But I digress from my original question... lol: I noticed you put yours on a kaboat with an air floor. Now these lil engines are heavy as all hell.. and powerful!!... does yours put a lot of stress on the tubes and transom brackets? Also, do you get any weird flexing on the floor, almost like riding a wake, that lifts and almost bends the floor up when accelerating, and even after getting on plane, do you get that same wake, followed by cavitation and over revving? I ask because I took it out a couple of days ago for the first time with my 11' inflatable boat (also made by Saturn) with air floor and it seemed sketchy as hell, just how heavy it is and how much it pulls on that transom (felt like it was going to rip it out). I also got that wave-like bending, over revving and cavitation, even with OB trimmed all the way down on the first hole. Both boat and OB are short shaft, so I'm confused and disappointed.. almost wish I had gone for the aluminum floor model instead. Wondering if it just an under pressure issue, or....? And wondering if a cut piece of plywood (either on top or under entire length of floor might help the situation..)? Would love to hear your thoughts.. Sorry for the novel 😁🙋♂️
@@CUBICHI1985 yes i remember you told me. Good deal. No biggie change the timing belt is easy. better to do all the maintenance work. You dont want to break down on the water lol not fun
@LaingEj Yup. I got the manual and joined RIB.net (very good info and lots of support from those guys). I'm just a bit skeptical to do timing belt cuz 1) I've never done one before, on a car or otherwise.. and 2) because it calls for some specialized tools, one for holding down flywheel and another for actually removing and torquing down the flywheel bolt. I did go through it completely (was kinda proud of myself), checking/replacing the usual stuff like: lower unit, impeller, crankcase oil, prop. But also checked and cleaned out anodes, thermostat and their housings (which were very full of crystalized salt/mineral deposits). And after I received/replaced all my parts and had it out on the water I got a lil more peace of mind, cuz it ran really well. Aside from the whole cavitation problem of course (more on that above ☝️)..
I used a model plane remote the flysky, pwm relays and a linear actuator for steering. I needed RC boat because the houseboat I had no place on shore to tie up the dingy so I use RC remote to anchor the dinghy after jumping off on land. Thats the most difficult thing with cruising and livaboard boats finding a place on land to tie the dinghy. Had to use secondary relay for the high amp draw winch for the anchor. And the diode for the flyback the relays coil inductance not fry my pwm relay. I will upload a video eventually.
You have motivated me to start working on this project. Hoping to tie in a Hobbywing ESC instead and use 12v version of the gearbox. Hoping to get motivated enough to add in a flight controller with iNav and see if I can get some GPS and anchor functionality but just ordered parts to get phase 1 going.
Project going slow but I did order gearbox; esc; bike seat clamp and clamp collar. Decided to draw up and print a collar that had teeth to sit inside powerwheels gearbox cog/gear and use bike seatpost clamp to hold it in place. Hoping to get this thing done so I can start fishing while trolling shoreline hands free.
@@ChandlerWoodruff How is it going? I am about to try to do this, making a list of all the parts with links. I would like to add GPS and an anchor ability, but that might be later.
@@johns2590 Another project that was started but not completed. I purchased the power wheels motor and cored it to fit; I have ESC and programmmer but have not programmed and I have collars but still not installed. I even deviated and thought about going old school and purchased a triangle but put on the other trolling motor and have done nothing with it either. Purchased a 4hp Mercury and was using it a bunch but been stuck on creek and kayak fishing recently. I will get to this eventually as having this linked with a flight controller and iNav would be a dream.
@@ChandlerWoodruff chasing that same train of thought! I’m going the ds600/ quicrun 800 ESC route. I forgot about INav! That should be a pretty straight port over as you’ve only got to deal with 2 dimension’s instead of 3! Thanks for the original post and the reminder that I don’t have to reinvent the gps guided wheel!!
@@fishesfromtupperware let me know. I have too many hobbies at the moment but would love to compare some notes. I did buy that same ESC in March of 2023 and it's just sitting there waiting on me to get started on this project.
Please tell me your not sacking groceries somewhere for a living. Knowledge like yours needs to be utilized and challenged. Plus your not afraid to experiment and make mistakes. That’s what separates the sellers from the buyers.
Thanks for this useful information that I’m going to use for mine. Have you thought of a way to create a trim up/down method? I was planning on putting mine on the opposite side of my pirogue for weight distribution purposes. Having the motor’s adjustable lever remote friendly would be perfect
Can you show a diagram on how you wired the small pwm to the steering ref transmitter? I was thinking of just using a step down converter from 12v to 3v instead of a small pwm. I’m curious what wires go where from the steering rf transmitter?
@steffen You can use a step down too but you will be stuck with that slow turning speed. With the small pwm is better you can adjust the speed. Ok you got the remote relay receiver right? Need a 2ch (2 relays) 12v coming from battery the batt go to the pwd .. wich you adjust it down to 3v output go to the input of the remote relay inputs split the wire into and but relay inputs is 3v. Keep in mind the receiver does need 12v to work. But the relays will operate on the adjustable 3v supplied by the pwd. Your ground is straigh from battery. Check this diagram used the one to drive a motor.images.app.goo.gl/g3JUyJ5zpYq9pM817 but dont connect 12v to the C terminals connect the 3v from pwd. A terminals ground and B terminals go both to the two steering motor wires
Hi. I am trying to install the power wheel gearbox but not sure how to program the remote to turn it. Can you please explain how you did it? Thank you.
I’ve been able to successfully replicate this project except for one thing. When I connect the small pwm to the switch relay (the one that controls the right and left motor), I’m losing power. It works for a second and then dies out. When I connect the right and left switch directly to the battery, it works fine which means there’s something wrong with the pwm potentiometer. Any thoughts on what I’m missing? Is it a fuse issue? I tested all the wires and they’re all doing fine. Would love some direction. Thanks.
Got it working except....how do I do reverse? The remote for the main/large PWM that controls speed works but A and B buttons seem to do the same thing.
Good design but I'm just wondering since the steering assembly is made out of kid's toy and probably made in china, on how much can this assembly withstand a saltwater environment and weather challenges, including waterproofing and rust inhibitors.
Did you use the 24volt 7r motor with the larger axle hole? Or did you use the 12volt 7r motor with small axle hole? I know you are only powering with 12 volt but the 24 volt motor would still work on 12v supply just at a slower speed. I’m concerned that the smaller axle hole may not accommodate the trolling motor shaft. I know you had to bore your out some. I have the same trolling motor as you.
What everyone could do is buy a trolling motor steering motor made for the trolling motors and wire it up this way. Saves the headaches and it’s made for these applications. Makes it a lot easier.
Love your content ! You made me order the things to tune my 15hp suzuki to a 20hp modell, my stock prop is the 9,25 x 10 and i reach maximum rpm of 5900 with my boat now. After the tuning my rpms will rise, right ? So do i need a 11 or 12 pitch then ?
Wow you 100 rpm away from redlining the 15hp hahahaha. It tops at 6000rpm. yes you might need a bigger prop with 20 horse maybe not.. maybe you will stay right below 6300 rpm. 6300 is the redline for the 20hp. Just try it before ordering a 11” prop.
@@laingej yup you are right :) i just wasnt sure if the 5 more hp will get me over 6300 or not. but anyway, thats the best way to try it first and then select the prop. am i right when i say that the maximum hp of the outboard is at the maximum rpm? so its always the best to go as near as possible to the limit to get the highest performance?
@@barschgeil3150 yeah nothing wrong being close to the redline.. you will get the most out of it . But actually you could be loosing power/speed. With a bigger prop you could be at lower rpm but faster speed to really you have to try
Can you send me a wiring diagram I don’t understand the need for 2 pwm did you have to remove the yellow and blue wire from trolling motor to get it to work
Yes i cut off and covered with tape the yellow and blue wires on the trolling motor. You dont need them. They are for the power wasting speed coils. The pwm will control your prop speed now. The second tiny pwm is for the steering motor ..to adjust the steering speed as desired. The big pwm controls the propeller speed. I dont have a diagram.
Okay so I got the red and black going to the pwm then the pwm to remote but the remote will not provide power to the pwm in order for the remote control to work
@@angryfrogfishing2388 The remote doesnt supply the battery power. You need to connect read and black from the battery to the pwm aswell.. the remote relay connects to the on /off switch of the pwm thats how i turn in on or off.
