In this video I will be showing you how to make a ski rack for your garage, basement, or where ever else you’d like wall mounted storage for your ski equipment. This is a fairly simple design requiring minimal tools. #oemtools #garageorganization #skiing
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First is knowing how many skis this rack will be for. Each pair of skis will sit between wood dowels, therefore for each ski, two lengths of dowels are required. The dowels will need to be at least the same width of the widest skis plus at least a 1/2”, plus the board it’ll be mounted on. After some calculations, each dowel will be 6.5” in length, leaving 5” for the skis. The dowel I’m using for this project is 5/8” in diameter.
Laying out the dowels on the backer board, this will be a 2x4. This will give plenty of strength for the dowels and how it’s fastened on the wall. To make this easier, I marked out the center of each right dowel, so this is 3” from the end. The thickness of the skis is up to 3/4”. To figure out the position of the next dowel for the one pair of skis, add 5/8 to 3/4. This works out to 1-3/8”, so this is the center distance between both of the dowels.
Mark out the other dowels. The maximum binding height for the skis is about 3-1/2”, it’s good to have spacing a little more just in case. So the center for every first dowel on the right is 9”, giving 4-1/2” of room for each ski from the center line where they’re mounted.
Now the center is marked for each dowel location, this is just the center of the 2x4.
I was able to determine the total length by marking 3” over from the outside dowel, the same as I started with on the opposite side. The board can then be cut to length.
All the holes are pre-drilled with a pilot hole, meaning a small bit ensuring the accuracy is maintained. This is done on a drill pressing so that the holes are perpendicular to the board. You can also use a handheld drill if you wish.
Now a 5/8” drill bit is used, the same size as a dowel. The dowel will fit snug in all these holes. These holes are drilled through the board.
Before the dowels are installed, the outer edge of the board is routered with a 1/2” radius for a cleaner look.
The board is then sanded using 150 grit and then finished with 220 grit.
I did a test run and found the down did split easily with a nail, so everything is pre-drilled slightly smaller than the nail. First the board is drilled and after the dowels will be drilled once they’re in place.
Wood glue is then applied on the side of each of the holes.
More glue is applied on the outside of the dowel, the portion which will be inserted in the rear board.
Each dowel is installed in the rear board, they’re hammered into place using a dead blow hammer. Use a hammer that won’t damage the wood dowels.
The holes are then drilled into the dowels.
Finally nails are installed into each of the dowels, both the glue and nails work together to keep everything in place. Screws can also be used if you wish.
This is continued for the rest of the dowels. Use a damp cloth to wipe away any exposed glue. The glue will need to dry anywhere from 12-24hrs depending on the project.
Check the backboard to ensure the dowels are flush and reference from the front as well making sure they’re all aligned.
Once the glue was dried, the wood was then sanded down removing any glue residue which may affect how a final wood finish is applied. The wood was then cleaned to remove any dust before applying a stain.
Wood finish will vary based on your personal preference. I used a wood stain I had laying around just to help provide some form of protection on the wood. This will be mounted in a garage so there’s no chance of it being exposed to any weather.
After the stain soaked into the wood for about 10 minutes, it was then wiped using a clean cloth.
The stain was then applied to the front using the same process. When applying a stain, go with the grain. The longer the stain soaks into the wood, the more it’ll soak into the wood. Multiple coats can be applied if you wish.
Once down, it was then mounted on the wall. The hole locations were not symmetrical with each side based on the location it was mounted on the wall. 3-1/2” screws were used and this was fastened directly to the studs ensuring it’s properly supported. Only two screws were needed, the studs here are 16” on center, I was able to install the screws 32” apart.
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1 июн 2023
