The method I use for squaring up a block is to put it up in the vise and machine the perimeter of all 4 sides. It would mean you would have to use conventional milling for the sides. Afterwards I would machine the top. For the final step you would flip block over and machine the bottom face to size. Great video I always enjoy your tutorials.
Nice job... Glad I found your channel... just getting my 6012 out of cobwebs to start for 1st time. Need to find a total new start up video. Have Mach 3.
I was thinking that while watching also. Need to machine the top surface, then do 2 sides without moving it in the clamp using the side of the bit. That will result in 2 parallel sides square to another face.
Good point. So actually dug into this a bit further and yes not being perfectly square wouldn't have helped but actually the calculations in the software for the second circle were off and this was reflected in the 3d model as well 😞
For those without a CNC, You can do this fee hand with Forstner bits and a drill press. You just need to not be in a hurry! The block must be square and you need to find the centers of the sides very carefully.
Absolutely brilliant James you're my man very inspiring ... One thing it's just gone through my mind I don't do a lot of cnc because with wood because of dust mostly ,just laser because of my machine location. But you know I never considered doing any aluminium. This could potentially give me a whole new option for me to try out . Though I don't know if the "master pro " will be the ideal machine for it ...thank again 👍
Having just installed a new control board in my 3018pro, I would recommend putting some kind of shield around the control board when cutting metal. A random piece of brass got onto the board and shorted out the power switch and probably something else. Brass dust all over it, even with the nice plastic box it came in. Now I use a quick shot of oil to keep down on the metal dust...
Can anyone make any comment regards the precision and equally important the consistency of the precision. I am not looking for very high precision, definitely not at this price point, but would to achieve some basic sub mm control when making aluminium parts\brackets for my FDM printer designs. Thanks in advance Boothy
Awesome video! Do you think you could make a video of trying steel to see if it would be rigid enough to mill? I am serious thinking of buying this CNC for small parts
Hi James, an other great video. which CNC machine were you using for this demo? Also as an ex tool maker, your really should be deburring the two machined faces that go back into the vice jaws each time, this will greatly reduce errors and will go a long way to stopping your work piece coming loose. cheers Phil,
It is the 3030 Prover Max, from Sainsmart. Agree on the deburring, I do mention about doing this at one point in the video but didn't specifically state it for the jaws though but probably should have
Great video, I may try and make this on my 3018 prover v2! I was wondering if you are going to do a review of the new L8 laser cutter from sainsmart and if so, when?
Great work, very inspiring. Simpler identifying cube faces is imaging a dice. Opposite faces add up to 7, 6&1, 5&2, 4&3. If you reduced the stepover is thisvthe same cube design that would allow the inner cubes to rattle around but be constrained and not fall out? When debugging, you said one of your measurements was off. What should they have been please?
yes in theory but to my knowledge you usually leave the cubes still attached slightly and cut the corners otherwise the cube can technically fall out. So when I looked into it further, the software was actually producing the wrong measurements for he second cube. You can just about see it on the 3d model I produced that the second cube is thinner than the rest. Some user error will still play a part but that was the main culprit.
I love your videos James. I am just getting into Milling and Turning on the lathe. I have been taking classes at a local college. I discovered your channel after I purchased the Genimtsu Proverxl 4030, though I wish I would have waited. Not soon after delivery I discovered a V2 had been released. Hopefully an upgrade kit will be released, or someone will come out with a bill of materials to source the individual parts. Ultimately, I am hoping to move from woodworking to metalworking. I am interested in what machine you are using in this video. Can you provide this information?
Looks great, I might try it with wood. Ill make it 49mm and just screen shot your specs. I have my 3018pro running decently... ish... looking forward to more projects. Im having a problem related to this topic. Ive been carving coin blanks and having trouble getting them level on the bed. Ive seen videos where people do a "mapping" run with the probe to let the software know the contours of a piece, but never a how to on doing that process. Do you have one? If not... ??
Did you take any special steps to tram that vise? It looks like it is aluminum, so I was wondering if you closed it tight and then surfaced those lips to ensure they're parallel to the x-y plane of your router. Have you tried using a two-piece machine vise like the one This Old Tony built? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9UGY8iJH_aY.html That would allow you to use your spoil board as a base which is parallel to the x-y plane if you surfaced it. Great video as always. I can't wait to make one of those cubes.
