You can coat the wood with used motor oil as a release agent to make the mold easier to pull out of the cement. May still have to wash it off some, but this may make it easier to work with.
Very nice looks very realistic. Now you need to grout it. Would you like a couple of tips and yes I know this was all done like a year ago, but maybe it'll help someone else. A simple pattern would have made life easier. There's a pattern that those of us in the business call a pinwheel pattern that will give you a similar look and it only takes 2 sizes. Also the way it works there are no lines that are continuous throughout the floor. Take a piece of paper and draw one square, maybe even some graph paper. For example start with a 2' x 2' square. Now on the top right corner or NNE draw a square 1' x 1'. Then face east (on the first square) and do another 1' x 1' on the same spot and continue all the way around. If you used graph paper and did it based on the scale of the paper you will have four squares outlined and then on the corner of this square you will have 1' x 1' squares (4 of them) around the first square creating the appearance of a pinwheel sort of. So now if you continue on by drawing 4 more of the 2' x 2' squares to the right of the first 1' x 1' square starting at the top of the 1'x 1' going out 2' then down 2' and back 1' to the second 1' x 1' square that you did having created another 2' x 2' and repeat over and over. This seemed much easier to explain in my head, so sorry for how long this has taken and even more so if you didn't get it. If you did you'll see how simple it is in application. Also if you draw out a decent portion of your page you'll notice that there are no continuous lines or grout joints like in the example that we just watched. This is very forgiving and is a great pattern for a new DIY job whether this job or laying ceramic tile. Another tip would be to use wood for the frame that was thinner, at least down to 1/2" thick wood or even 3/8" would be better. 3/4" and bigger are huge grout joints and will be a real pain in the butt when grouting. Last tip, in the tile business when working with natural stone or any product that has a rough finish we will seal it with what we call grout release, but in this case any kind of sealer even if it was only Thompson's water based sealer. A couple of coats should be enough but the more the better otherwise it'll be a lot of work getting the grout off of the cement pavers. Hope this helped someone. And Robert I look forward to your finished patio, looking good.
Impecable!! Yo estoy haciendo el piso de mi jardín con cemento. Voy a hacer el molde. Muchas gracias por compartir tus videos los he mirado a todos. Uno mejor que el otro!! Gracias gracias gracias . Vann
No problem 👍 Have you seen these two videos too? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aZ8ObrpBj6Y.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rvMpGdIMcEs.html
Vraiment bien pensé, avec des couleurs pastels, ça rend super bien , bravo, je vais prendre ton exemple et commencer mon chantier , merci pour ta bonne humeur’ Je suis en nouvelle Calédonie, , continue ,
Great job! How long do you let set before pulling out mold? Update- I recently tried this method and it basically took 1 concrete bag per. So here in Canada a bag of easy mix concrete is $7.50 at home Depot. Just a heads up.
Hi, first of all really great work. Great inspiration!!!Congrats!!! I need to pave like that a large parking lot, aprox 800 sq meters !!!!and cars will be driving on slow pace though, also there are around 500 more sq meters that there is a slope , pretty steep, so i have few questions pls, i need to do it myself as they are asking a lot of money and i can do it slowly at my own pace, no need to do it at once!!! First you mention mixing should be 3 times sand and one cement, should i increase the cement ratio to make it more robust and strong? also i will add rebars, metal bars on the bottom and i ll have to level ground as my ground is very rocky in Greece and not flat, so will add also gravel , i hope i do not need to place also levelling sand do you agree? so how thick do you think the cement should be in order to cover also the rebar in the bottom 12 cms more than that 15 ?? maybe, thats a lot of cement and i may need to buy it ready to avoid destroying!!! my arms and legs.... also if i add motor oil to the wooden moulds can it stay there for long so i can carry on working with the rest or will it be impossible to remove it then when the cement is dry for the slope which is steep !!!!can i do that too??? with rebars attached on the ground with metal spikes deep in ground around 40cms ?? to hold the rebars in place? thanks in advance
Holaa Que buena idea. Y muy económica. Si me animo lo voy hacer. Y si puedo cuando esté listo subo la foto y usted califica el trabajo. Gracias por compartir esas enseñanzas. Dios lo bendiga !!
try painting a few heavy coats of vegetable oil on the mold before you use it - it will help prevent the compo sticking to the wood and also make it easier to clean - this is something I learned a a youngster 30 years ago when casting concrete window sills
The patio looks very inviting and professional! You will enjoy spending lots of time there, I'm sure. Do you plan to put screen or some kind of skirting around the addition? Where I am in Arizona USA, we need to beware of snakes, mice, bees, and other animals and insects getting into spaces like that. Just wondering if you have similar concerns.
Very good job! I can tell from your intro about the hard work and physical demand! Question: Do you think if you made each concrete stone as individual pavers (all different sizes) before hand, vs. doing the whole group mold? For example, make the individual pavers first, lay down leveling sand and paved them...would that been less of physical demand on your body?
I’m not sure there would be less work. I worked on this system because I didn’t want to level the ground. The problem was also the hot weather was 35 C all the time
Yes, it is suitable for cars, but it must be at least 12cm thick. If you drive on these pavers, you need to add paint when mixing concrete, along with cement and gravel.
Awesome job there. Just to ask will you reduce the spacing between the pavers or will you fill with something? Also are you putting anything underneath like a black plastic sheet to prevent weed growth between the pavers?
Looks great! Any suggestions for using a mold against a curved edge? My “patio” area has a sidewalk bordering it that has a curve. I can’t figure out how to do the areas where the mold will go over the curved concrete sidewalk.
You might be able to make individual bricks from the mold separately then place them in a curve shape. Will be more of a pain that just pulling the mold but might be easier than making curved molds.
we use centimeters the exact size is 4.5cm x 2cm have you seen more of my videos in cement pavers? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aZ8ObrpBj6Y.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rvMpGdIMcEs.html
One thing I might change is to make 1 or 2 partial molds so I won't have the continuous grout line running the entire distance. I think this needs to be broken up since the style is a broken grout line style
