LOL -- "I like to use my finger. It's always there and I know where it is." Awesome summary of the process, and starting with the board break test is brilliant -- sell the technique, *then* show the technique. Thank you!
For someone like me, I have only had a few wood working skills. This is so informative, along with comments below, I can now see how a glued edge to edge is very strong. This is the start of making my own cutting board. This is going to be fantastic. Yes, I do understand that I have to use hard wood for that project, like oak, birch, hard maple, mahogany, etc. I have been working on learning about epoxy tables as well, so I can show off my handiwork to my family.
Good solid presentation of information. I'm just a beginner, but I think I read somewhere that the University of Michigan did a study (They are always' studying something up there.) that found a glue joint is 40% stronger if glue is applied to BOTH surfaces. I don't know about that but have taken to doing it, just in case. -Veteran '66-68
That kinda makes sense in that both surfaces are equally "wetted" before joining. But since the joint is already stronger than the wood, it probably doesn't make much difference. Maybe if you're using a very dense, tight-grain wood in a stressed situation it would. Interesting, and not a bad practice nonetheless.
Thank you for producing this video. The little trick accounting for variations from 90 degrees saved me a significant amount of time. Additionally thank you for demonstrating how to check if boards are aligned properly with the double square.
Good instruction, one glue up complete using the table saw and this technique. Did recheck the alignment of the blade, had to realign and reset the angle to 90 degrees, then things smoothed out completely.
Make certain that you have a straight or planed edge on the outboard side of the cut. I had a mild bow on my outboard edge on a board causing an uneven edge for the glue joint.
I want to join 2 boards of different thickness and still have one surface flush. Any advice? I don’t need perfection, I want to use, not glue, but flat steel irons-just 2 or 3.
While these instructions are accurate, they are over simplified. Here are a couple of additional tips: - when choosing board orientation for a seam, study grain direction and color. This will minimize the appearance of the joint. - if using the table saw method- the quality of the saw is important. Smaller more affordable hobby or jobs often do not have flat surfaces so this may not work as easy as displayed. Also, if you have a HQ saw, it needs to be finely tuned/adjusted. - after the glue-up, do not sand or work the joint for a few days. The surrounding wood would had absorbed some of the moisture, slightly swelling the material along the joint, and if your work the material to early - and the material moisture equalizes after you sand the joint - it will shrink resulting in a slightly uneven surface along the glue joint. Please comment and add your additional suggestions
Protect your clamps and joint by using some waxed paper between the clamp and wood. With bar clamps as demonstrated, the zinc in the pipe will react and discolor wood, particularly oak unless you are planning to plane the board sown after the glue-up.
Great video. Is this process any different for thicker heavier boards? For instance, if I wanted to join two 3-foot pieces of 1.5 inch thick birch for a total length of 6 feet for use as a table. The table will not only be heavy by its own weight but also potentially hold one to two hundred pounds of unevenly distributed weight on top, once set up. Is it worth considering using dowels or biscuits or even creating a tongue & groove edge instead?
I don't understand why you wouldn't wipe the beads of squeezed-out glue immediately, while they're still very liquid and super easy to wipe away, or at the very latest--a few minutes after clamping.
Finished face of the boards up/down on the table saw is a great tip! I futz around a lot to make the blade perfectly vertical but flipping the boards means it doesn’t have to be perfect. (Insert forehead slap here)
Lovely pieces of wood there. I always say NEVER sand the mating edges. It can seal the edges and the glue may not sink into the wood. Sawn edges are best, planed edges are okay. Excellent video.
i went to glue up a panel the other day ad was talking to my self about how much glue to use and i said out loud 'just enough squeeze out' and my son heard me and said "I think the Mafia says that too!" I was on the floor in tears!!!!!!!
What I don't understand is why a tutorial which is ostensibly for beginners uses tools to create the flat edges which, in all likelihood, are not going to be owned, or accessible, to most of the aforesaid beginners. How do beginners with limited access to power tools going to create the required straight edges?
@@2shoestoo Sorry, that's BS. A table saw or joiner is not an entry-level level tool, and certainly not at the level of how to glue two bits of wood together.
Kurt Adkins and what do you do to sharpen a knife? Go rub it on a rock?, no you purchase a knife sharpener to do the job right just like woodworking. What an idiot!!!
please show how to do this without using any power tools. I have hand saw, small plane, 3 chisels, mallet, hammer, screwdrivers, T- square, ruler and pencil. And mothers kitchen table. thank you.
Great video. I am working on a project and about to glue up some walnut. This video confirms everything I was taught and I know my panel will come out good. As they are 48" I am using #20 biscuits too just to keep things straight.
Dear sir... Very nice and clear video and useful information... However the script at the bottom is s annoying... Hopefully in future you move the script to top RHS. Regards
