I did this before watching your video. Picked up one tip ...the radius. I found rib bones aged in the yard "my dog buried them years ago" and the sound from bone to plastic nuts is warmer with bone nut
Came to the comments to make exactly the same comment if I didn’t find it here. I have had to remove a few nuts which have been overzealously glued, and I now make a point of only adding a wee drop of something not too aggressive when I’m gluing a nut.
Nice work. If I make a suggestion, when you glue a nut, put the drops on the end grain of the fretboard. That way if you ever have to pull it off it won't take chunks out of the headstock. Just a tip.
I honestly think the glue is unnecessary since the base it's sitting on is flat and the tension of the strings would keep it in place anyway...at least that's what I do, and I've never encountered any problem with it
Nice Tanya just found your shorts. I did custom nuts for years at guitar companies, gotta have good hands and attention to detail its a technical and rewarding thing to know how to do. Cool shorts!
A custom unbleached bone nut for a Lester Polsfus Custom with Imperials using a StewMac nut spacing rule. Nice work. I did this exact task yesterday on a 73 LP BB, FW
Instead of using feeler gauges to mark the nut, have you tried using a half pencil by grinding down a carpenters pencil in half, then just mark the nut by sliding the half pencil along the frets.
I first want to point out that I don't do this professionally, so there's a good chance I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that applying the glue to the end of the fingerboard decreases the difficulty of removing the nut in future without damaging the instrument.
Feel like a bone nut is something that has a lot of levels of quality. It is just a matter of how much time you are willing to put in to it or pay someone to put into it. It can get as fine as setting up the truss rod and bridge saddle height and intonation then bringing the slots down slowly to .020" to .015" then knocking down the top of the nut till the lower strings are 2/3rds in the slots and high strings are barely in. Roll off the back edge of the nut so the strings gently bend towards the tuners. It's just a matter of time and energy and money. And wether you are doing it for yourself or getting paid to do it. And how much someone is willing to pay. There is a functional nut and there is as close to perfect as humanly possible. Of course everyone has blown a nut and had to start from scratch.
подумывал купить себе такую, но оттолкнул вклеенный гриф , я давольно рукожопое существо , мне лучше такой инструмент в руки не давать, было интересно наблюдать за работой, спасибо)
WHOA!! U R Truly a skilled Craftsman!! (Women) 2 me it's SO impressive 2 watch that front 2 back!! PEOPLE: THAT'S WHY ITS SO EXPENSIVE 2 HAVE A "TRUE LUTHIER" work on &/or fix ur Guitar......😉
I would try using less glue, and putting the glue on the end grain of the fretboard rather than on the bottom of the nut channel. There’s a very good chance that if that nut ever needs to be removed in the future, a bunch of wood is going to come with it.
You shouldn’t glue the nut down on the base. A small amount of glue against the edge of the fingerboard will secure it and prevent damage when removed again in the future.
Ehm, when you have made one, do the same to a chunk of antler, and believe me or not, a strip of red copper. The metal version sounds great, when your bridge saddle(s) is metal, too. Doing such things yourself is a very very very good idea.
The break, the very end of the Chord Length s/b straight; on the Machine head side obviously relieve binding angle if you have angled string pull, a nice mini curve has no negatives at all.
If that was CA glue to put that nut in, DON'T use it. A couple drops of wood glue is enough, just enough to hold it in. You want to be able to get it out easily if need be. Dave Reaume knows.
