i watched 10 "How to make stretcher frame videos" and none of them understud what the stretcher part in a stretcher frame is and all of them made a frame. Happy to see you video of someone how knows what it is and how to make it. Thank you very mutch
I am also married to an artist. So many people (including artists) don't know the difference between a stretcher and a strainer frame. I thought I would never be able to build a proper stretcher, but you have devised a brilliant technique. This is going to score many points for me, thank you!
I have been searching for a few years,ways to make stretcher bars but found way too many videos with specialized machinery. I can finally stop using strainers. YOU,SIR ARE A GENIUS.
Thank you Mr Saunders! I came her looking for a video teaching me the way to to it in one piece. But this is way better! And structurally speaking, it's better than one-piece bars, on the same principle that plywood is more structurally stable than solid wood. And the risk of detachment between the pieces is almost 0 if a good glue is used thanks to the fact that the contact surface is very wide. Thank you very much, greetings from Mexico.
Good to hear it's of use to you. And as you say, it is structurally stronger. Many thanks for the comment and greetings from Finland, where my wife and I have almost finished our summer long stay.
Agreed! I would imagine that in practice a router approach would require two passes for each end of the bars since the blade is too large to pass safely between anything but the largest, most expensive and somewhat dangerously-sized router bits. Both passes would be at opposing trailing/leading 45° angles, and not an efficient process. I think that when making these, lamination as per Rod's approach is valid for anything less than production level. Work like this with a router is a nice technical exercise, but not one of efficiency....and certainly not worth buying pricy router bits for!
Wow. Thank you very much for posting this sir! I am a graduate student of painting and all of my professors just knew how to make them with simple miter joints glued together, but this is fantastically better. I appreciate you posting it.
Thank you for making this video. I do wood trim for a living and I thought I’d need a dado saw to build these. I’m so happy! I have lots of canvas art work coming in the mail soon.
Thank you so much for the video! I am making a jarrah stretcher and needed a solution that didn't rely on expensive equipment. Also, your kitten was a delight!
Excellent video, thank you. I’ve seen several videos for making stretchers with a more rigid joinery (pocket holes, nailed back supports) but those don’t explain how stretcher keys would fit into the picture. Bit of a head scratcher. I was intimidated by the tongue and groove miter joint but now I see it can simply be laminated. Thanks so much!
Thanks! Very kind. My wife has a show in a gallery in Helsinki this month. We disassembled the stretchers to travel from London with them and will reassemble them in time for their display.
I am so thankful for your video, i am so lucky to find it. i was looking for something like this, something that would allow me re-tighten the canvas. i like the thickness and how you made them. NO need for expensive tools. thanks a lot.
Glad it 's usefull for your framing needs. It takes time, but the costs of the materials are peanuts compared to buying a ready made one from an Art craft shop...and you have the satisfaction of making them yourself. All the best.
That's when I Say old people have a Lot to share because You guys have already run all the way awesome and young people have to listen show some respect
Thanks! this was SO useful. All videos out there that claim to be making stretchers are actually for strainers... This is a real stretcher! I sort of knew how the joint was made up, but I always assumed it was cut. I never realized it could be done laminating. Laminating is actually better for preventing warping in the bars themselves too...
This is the first vedeo of building real stretcher bars with tongue and groove joints. All the other vedeos I found showed how to make strainers bars not the real article. Thanks so much for this. But I have to say the this would be a huge lot of very painstaking and accurate level of work to produce a single set of bars for just one picture. I guess the strainers would be much easier and faster alternative. Thanks again.
thank you so much for posting this - I'm a senior art student, I can't really afford to buy stretcher bars for my large finished paintings (painted them stretched on the wall) -- I made a strainer with nailed corners for now. next time I make one I'll be able to do it properly
Thank you so much dear Rod. your video is amazing and a rare find. So simple and so professional. All painters should watch this video will share it on FB page..thanks alot
@@rodsaunders149 I’m a carpenter by trade, so I immediately went to a mitred bridle joint, with one blade. Not to sure if I can describe it well enough. One corner of the joint would have been cut at 45 and then taken the middle 3rd out to form a socket for the blade to sit in. The other would be cut square and the top and bottom 3rds taken off at a 45 leaving the middle 3rd square and projecting out. End result is a single blade 45 mitre with room for one key. All this can be done on a table saw and is reasonably quick and doesn’t require laminating the boards together. I’m curious though, is this the standard way to make the frame for canvas pictures? I also watched some restoration videos to get ideas, and they all seemed to use mitred bridle joints.
I don't know if my method is the standard way of making a mitred joint. I couldn't find a video of how to do it on RU-vid, so figured out this way myself. Your method sounds good, try both and see how they turn out. My wife is the artist in the house and she says all conservation stretcher bars are made with bridle joints. The manufactured wooden ones, of varying degrees of quality e.g. thinner wood, and cheap canvas, are made with the bridle joint, as well.
@@rodsaunders149 I would say that no, your way is not standard!! For this though I think it is superior to a standard bridal joint. I've done bridal joints before, that's why I was happy to see another method. I've already got the frame made, it worked wonderfully. Thanks again for enlightening me!
Thanks for the video! I work in industrial woodworking (cruise ships, fine furniture, public spaces, etc) and would likely use the approach of making single-piece stretcher bars using a spindle moulder rather than laminating. Still, it's great to see a fully-realised stretcher bar frame being made from the absolute basics upwards, and in all honesty I like the lack of hassle this approach produces. Very commendable. I think that all I could add to this would be to apply more even clamping pressure when laminating the pieces with a basic (what looks like D2) PVAc glue, preferably by gang-clamping sets. In use however, the keys bearing onto the ends of the inner laminate would be unlikely to cause issue with the lamination joints, however it is feasible that splitting from sideways key pressure is possible. They can develop a lot of force for such a small component; the secret to the frame's successful operation, after all. Perhaps a couple of off-grain aligned glued cross dowels through the laminate sets an inch or so in from the ends would allay this, even if it is likely a non-issue. Belt and braces, always! Greetings from Finland.
Thanks Tristan for the tips. When I next make stretcher bars for my wife I'll include doweling (since I posted the video, I've started using hard wood scraps for the keys instead of the pine off-cuts). I've never used a spindle moulder and would be very interested to see how you would make stretcher bars using one. Any plans to do a video?
I'm unsure, Rod. I'd have to do some thinking about the purposes of a video more than anything, mostly because shaping with a spindle moulder isn't exactly in most people's arsenals. For those who they are, it's simply a case of setting up a correctly-shimmed cutter stack to run stock through, and that's more or less par for the course. In principle, it would be stock with the bead milled in, then pieces sent past the cutter stack at 45° to establish tongue/blades and corresponding grooves. On reflection (and having now verbalised the idea) I believe that your method is more relevant unless one was making a reasonable batch of stretcher frames that a more complex procedure would benefit. I actually decided to research stretcher bar frames after having watched the fantastic restoration videos on the Baumgartner Restoration channel here on RU-vid. His frames have nice neat ideas such as attaching the keys to the bars using short lengths of string should they ever decide to go on walkabout. My own personal project for which I am undertaking this is a John Atkinson Grimshaw print that will be installed into a custom Mahogany and Ebony frame. Mostly I'm trying to establish how best to stretch the canvas efficiently with as low a profile stretcher frame as possible. This is the sort of design puzzle that I enjoy most....the confluence of engineering and art. Have a great weekend!
Genius! I will be making my first experimental prototype today! This looks very difficult at first glance but actually, it is very simple in essence. Thank you, Rod, but only one such video in two years? You must have a few more tricks up your sleeve ?! A perfect tutorial
Thanks, Jeff. As you say, looks more difficult than it is. The only thing I change is cutting the bottom blades and bottom stretcher pieces 5 -10mm shorter so when it all goes together, the front mitre joints are tight, and the back mitre joints have a small gap...aesthetics. As for more videos, everything I make is pretty well covered by others, so I'd just be repeating things.
@@rodsaunders149 I made my first prototype effort today out of some strips of MDF. Just one corner, mind. A little confusing at times but it was very successful and accurate! When I get to B&Q I'll make some proper stretcher bars from pine and then stretch up some linen. Excellent!
@@jeff77hatt Well done! Another small change I've made is using off-cuts of hardwood for the keys. They probably last longer than the pine keys when being tapped in to re-tension the canvas...
I made a jig for my table saw that allows me to cut the tongue and both angled slots from a single piece of timber but it's a touch and go method if I'm not concentrating. I have yet to see another video on RU-vid that shows how to make a proper stretcher bar. Cheers Rod.
Thank you Rod for the informative video. Very well done. I think you're the only one I've found that explains how these are built. I just noticed that you have holes drilled on the right side fronts just below the beveled piece. Are these just for your reference for placement or do they have another function?
Glad it helps! On some of my wife's larger stretchers I made a central support with dowels at each end. I then made a 4" slot either end of the bar, below the dowels, which then had a sliding piece of wood attached to it with small nuts and bolts, which could be adjusted upwards and tightened, to take the slack out of the middle of the stretcher, when necessary. The other crossbar had to be made in two parts, using the same adjusting method, and joining the central support using dowels, It's not a simple method and because the pressure on the laminate is not on the face of the bar, which is its weakest part, but downwards, which is its strongest, I've gone up to 1m x 1m size canvases without the cross supports and they hold up. It's not the best solution and when I think of a better one I'll make a video.
The support looks superb and I can’t wait to give this a go - any idea on cost difference between your materials and the ready made bars from the art store? I’m interested to know the costs of both, as I don’t mind doing the work myself to put these together. Cheers!
I put this 90cm x 50cm with a depth of 50mm stretcher bar frame for about £8, but I buy the timber in packs of 12 from any B&Qs, Wickes etc. There are many online outlets that sell stretcher bars, though usually 18mm depth. 50mm depth is museum quality and you will pay more. If you have the time to make them yourself you'll get a great deal of satisfaction from doing it.
What are your thoughts on using thin plywood for the ‘canvas’ and gluing and nailing everything together? I started doing this but don’t know whether it’s frowned upon. I suppose the glue between the plys in the plywood could become questionable in terms of being archival.
Hi, I can't advise you on this; it sounds like a lot of work though. Art material suppliers sell block boards in different wood e.g. Baltic birch and Japanese woods.
Hi Rod, thank you for publishing such a fantastic and useful video, I very much appreciate it! Is there any chance you can make a similar follow-up video of the dimensions for keyed/adjustable cross-brace supports and how to cut and install them in a large or very large canvas frame? Also, what type of adhesive would you recommend? I'm not sure how to determine whether a glue is archival or not. Thank you.
Thanks for the very complementary comment. 🙂 I made that video because I couldn't find any other method for a DIYer to make one, outside of owning some serious tools. I've made adjustable cross braces, but not with keys. I make them using 3cm x 3cm hardwood. 1 piece goes across the longest inside edges of the stretcher and 2 pieces go either side of it forming the square to the other inside edges of the stretcher. The 2 shorter pieces forming the square are fixed to the long piece with dowels, tight, without glue. Again, I use dowels where the square brace meets the inside edge of the stretcher. Just drill the holes for the dowels, which are inserted into the ends of the braces leaving half the dowel projecting out the end, again tight with no glue. The corresponding holes for the other end of the dowels in the inside of the stretcher bars can be slightly larger than the dowels to facilitate movement when you adjust them. To adjust them make a 40mm L x 15mm W slots, 40mm down from the ends of the braces where they go against the inside of the stretcher bar. Cut a 60mm x 30mm x 15mm piece of hardwood batten and drill 2 holes in it 10mm from each end. Fix it on top of the slot with 2 small nuts and bolt (I use plastic), with washers large enough to cover the slots to stop the bolts going through when they are tightened. Before the bolt is tightened you can slide it up and down. You need to fit the brace to three sides of your stretcher frame and then tap on the last bar. When the stretcher is adjusted with the keys, the brace will be loose and can be tightened by loosening the nut and bolt and adjusting the brace to edges of the stretcher, then retightening. It sounds complicated and is a bit finicky, but I don't have the time (or the enthusiasm to make another video), but I hope this helps.
@@rodsaunders149 Thank you for that description. Sorry you aren't interested in making another video, but I get it, it's a lot of work. Which adhesives are archival that you would recommend for this project?
@@lowslow3612 The wood glues I've been using aren't labelled as archival and I haven't come across one when making my wife's stretchers. My description of these stretchers being 'archival' is that the canvas can be re-tensioned by gently tapping the keys into the slots. However, when I first put the video up one person responded that a gallery would not tighten a canvas with this method but would use a fixed stretcher and when the canvas needed tightening, the staples would be removed and the canvas re-stretched using the hand tool and re-stapled.
Re: cross-brace supports. I've just come across brace bar brackets which fit to the ends of the brace bars and are adjustable, allowing a key to be inserted after the corner keys are tapped in to re-tension the canvas, keeping everything square. I've no connection with this firm which sell them: www.lionpic.co.uk/search?q=brace+bar+brackets
Great work! I was looking to frame a canvas which is 150 x 100 cm and thinking I would need some bracing for this. I notice that you haven't glued anything to allow the keys to restretch the canvas. I assume you would also not glue the cross bracing. Is that true?
Thanks! Yes, you assumed right. You make it a tight fit. A frame this size would need a bracing cross. You could glue small wooden stops on one side of the underside of the stretcher where the cross meets, and angle the cut of the tops of the cross, allowing you to tap in a key on the other side of the stop.
Thanks for the reply Rod :) very helpful and I think I can visualise what you are describing, so that's great! On previous canvas stretch frames, I have sliced the top face of the frame with a table saw to create an angle (so that the highest edge is on the outside and the lowest is on the inside). I assume this is for the same reason you have the semi-circular beads (to avoid the "ghost frame" effect). Is there a reason you would go for the beads over an angled face on the frame or is it just availability of tools/materials?
@@maverick040690 I used the bead because I had it, but I also use quadrant when I have that...whatever is at hand. But I prefer either of these options than ripping the timber down for the angle, though I suppose it does make it lighter.
@@rodsaunders149 fair enough. I was thinking it makes a smoother edge and there is less chance of paint cracking as you strech over the corners rather than angling the face. I guess you could always route the edge if you wanted to achieve the effect. Thanks for the help Rod! Will give this a go :)
Thank you so much for this ! How do reckon this will age ? Do you trust the glue over centuries ? Will try the method on a 100x100cm frame, can't wait. Good day to you, sir.
I hadn't given a thought to the longevity, into centuries, of my stretchers. When I've pulled a laminate apart (because of an error) after a few hours or so of being glued, the joint doesn't separate at the glue, it tears the wood to separate. The glue is stronger than the wood. If you are making 100x100cm frame, you'll need to fit central brace bars. I tried all kinds of complicated methods in making adjustable brace bars and have now found that you can purchase Brace Bar Brackets. They fix to ends of the brace bars and are adjustable allowing a central key to be inserted after you've adjusted the corner keys to re-tension the canvas
Thanks asddasads. If you come across one let me know. I bought a small, top stretcher bar piece (very expensive) from an art and crafts shop (Jacksons in London) to see how it was made and the wood was fixed together in strips, like in my method only with finer joints because of factory processing. They were only visible because of the grain going in opposite directions.
Further to your comment about 'some tool that can make a cut in wood...' I have a router and if you used a straight bit it could, of course, cut a squared groove in the wood. The problem is that you would need a factory type jig to hold the bar in position for the grooves at each end, while leaving the blades formed.
Glad it helps you. I use pine for the stretchers and, originally cut-offs from the pine for the keys. I've since got a lot of old oak cladding boards (1930s house opposite being renovated), and amongst the uses for it, being hardwood, the off-cuts from that make very strong keys.
@@rodsaunders149 ok thank you great advice, i was shown how to do this when i was young and forgot, now i remember it was a great show thank you again i will be using this, i was looking for this video a long time and it just appeared, many people say they are doing it right, this is the true way to do it. when u say putting in a brace in middle i imagine you just leave a slot in the middle for a brace made just like the edge pieces, now would you use a key to stretch from the middle, say i am trying to stretch a canvas 1 meter 2 meters,?
@@soylientgreen8618 The Oak would make the bars stronger, but they are laminate by the time you glue the four pieces that go into one bar together, and they are very rigid.
Sorry I missed your post. No! don't seal it. The whole idea is that it can expand when the keys are tapped further in, making the canvas taught if it has slackened off.
@@rodsaunders149 thanks so much! i think your video is the only video on youtube on how to make these style of joints for art framing! thank you for making this video for those of us who want to do a good replication of this technique - very very helpful
@@rodsaunders149 ive been painting for 35 yrs but always used board mdf ect, and just started usibg canvas. Im thinking of using pvc batterns what dont shrink.
It's a lot easier to make a fixed stretcher frame, but as I said, if you want to tension the canvas once it slackens you will have to go through more work removing it than just (gently) tapping in the keys to add tension
It depends on how big you want the bars to be. The larger the finished product you need the blades to be thick enough to hold it tightly together. If they are too thin, then when you tap the keys in to tension the canvas they will snap. Also aesthetically, in my opinion, the painted canvas looks more impressive with a thicker depth of bar, than a 'flimsy' thin one. But you could disguise this by framing thin depth bars with what ever depth you wanted.
OK. I made this video because I couldn't find any video showing how to make adjustable stretcher bars. Make a video using those plans. I'd be interested to see the finished product.
Rod.... I apologize for my behaviour yesterday....I was pissed off at something, and you got the brunt of it! My apologies. Bill I'm going to delete that terrible review......please forgive me and forget I even spoke!
Purple Helm is right. I was using my laptop camera. I didn't get your meaning when you wrote 'copping' instead of copying. Why would anyone waist their time copying someone else's video?
