Great explanation of how to make the jig, and using feeler gauges and tape to dial it in. Definitely a good reference video for anyone that wants or needs to make these joints. Thanks for sharing Matthew!
I've been a great admirer of the Green and Green design in finished woodwork. I've built several furniture pieces with that model in mind with perhaps my own variation but not too way out still a Green and Green inspired piece of work. However, I would suggest that All your spacer blocks be of One piece and not putting several on the sled with the working blade so near at hand. One 3" block is much better than the two pieces you were using. On the other hand, it is better to make your layout just like dovetailing align your layout with the Zero clearance cut on your sled and transfer your templet onto the adjoining board and do the same leaving the pencil line, just like hand cutting dovetails. Far better than having to use all the blocks and clamps. Just a thought.
i was surprised you chose to use a box joint not the standard through dovetail for greene and greene. that is very precise i have to admit, though i could never make money taking that long for a joint. nothing better than learning to cut accurately with a hand saw or free handing on the table saw.
+Tayler Made The nice thing about this is once you dial this in, you can cut all of your drawers joinery at one time. Yes, cutting free hand is a great skill to master. If you head over to the Greene & Greene archives (cwis.usc.edu/dept/architecture/greeneandgreene/) and take a look at many of the larger pieces, you'll find that the drawers were mainly finger/box joints.
Great job! Box joints can be nasty things if your measurements are out by a hair. You address that in building the sled as well as joint measuring process you utilize. Really like the looks and skill set and patience’s you have. Thx
Beautiful table... great tip. I love that the drawers come out from both sides... and just looking at the video I can see you made a runner but it doesn't go all the way out the front, does that mean that the drawers get locked in? I'm gonna have to take a look at those plans cuz I love this.
+Jorge Araujo (HANDCRAFTED CREATIVE) thanks Jorge. This table takes inspiration from a few tables in the living room of the Gamble House. In larger Greene & Greene the drawers just slide back and forth. The runners go all the way to the front, minus about 1/32" on each side. I will be "locking" the drawers in though using a ball and catch on one side.
+MM Wood Studio Awesome... I love your work and care you give to what is obviously a passion for the Greene and Greene. Living here in LA its hard not to be inspired by the gamble house. One of my favorite locations in LA, Pasadena technically I know.
+scott walmsley You could use a Number 1 grind blade (flat bottomed). A dado stack usually doesn't have as many teeth as a box cutting set. This Frued set has 20 flat bottomed teeth per blade. On this cut, the more teeth the better to reduce the chance of tear out. As for a regular blade. Not unless you are going to chisel back to your lines. An alternate tooth bevel blade will not leave a flat surface.
+Dar Hoo an Alternate Tooth Bevel Blade will not leave a flat surface. You have to use a blade that does. As for a crosscut sled? Sure. Just put a new temporary bottom and fence on it to provide zero clearance support.
