How To Make Lincoln Logs 

I love to hear that! It's not hard at all, is it? Did you follow the same procedure pretty closely?

Almost the identical procedure, save using a sled for the table saw portions. When I do it again, I may discover further optimizations. I'm also curious to try making a set of logs with *seven* notches rather than four, centered every 1.5 inches. That's two more router table setups, but I feel like it would open up more building possibilities.

Woo! Update! I'm *probably* going to lead a group session cranking these out at my local makerspace, Artisan's Asylum. I've just talked with the staff and they're psyched! I'll let you know how it goes!

James Scheffler how'd it go?

Best comment of the day award.

If anyone can pull that shirt off, it's you! Hey, can I post a PDF or something for this tutorial on your site? I've already been asked for the text, and I don't have a site. It seems like a good idea, you know, networking and all. As for making these, it's the easiest thing ever to make, since the sanding is virtually zero. You may have noticed by now that sanding sucks ;)

That is the best quote i heard in a long time!

pocket83 Absolutely! Still got my email? Just send it over and I'll put it up when I do an update tomorrow morning.

I don't have it ready yet. But I'll get it to you soon. I have to get away from the computer for a bit!

No, he's an alpha carpenter

Second

Thanks. And go for it. If you have a router and a table-saw, this project is a breeze. Kids go crazy over these.

Glad it worked out for you! I just checked the link to the truss design, and it's working. The trusses are the tough part. You are right about the log process being pretty easy.

@@pocket83squared Thank you, The link works. It was my error.

Great to hear. Thanks for letting me know it!

I appreciate that ;)

+pocket83 almost 100K subs

At the same time I don't want you to make 10 videos a week and have 9 of them be crap.

Never played Myst. Not much of a PC gamer. No reason for it, just never went down that path. I have to say though, _Falling Water_ is just a drive into the country from where I live, so I've explored the grounds there: It seriously feels like you're in a game environment. It has weird little nooks with statues and/or fountains in them, and dead-end paths, and neat little sitting areas with views and such. Reminds me of some grown-in Resident Evil map; one expects a pop-up to say: "found silver key- keep/discard?"

I figured they'd be up your alley with the whole puzzle thing. They're hard games to recommend since they're all kind of janky in different ways. Myst 1 is very basic. Riven is excellent and presents the game's story in an interesting way where the puzzles are also parts of the game's world, like machinery that serves a purpose, but it's slideshow presentation and the fact it's hard to get running on modern PCs are difficult to get used to. Uru is totally bizarre in that they followed up the success of their earlier games with trying to make a Puzzle MMO of all things, and while it's playable in singleplayer it has some weird holdovers from the failed MMO part. 3 and 5 aren't super great and 4 is hot garbage. I find the difference between console and PC games interesting though. I'd say the big difference in philosophy is PC games letting players muck about with the game's mechanics to find fun things the devs never intended. As a comparison, Thief 2 gives you alot of tools to mess about and break the game with but something like MGS3 is full of things to play around with but they always feel intentional. Like disabling guard's radios or assassinating The End. And while MGS3 is a great game, it's just not quite the same as doing things that werent intended. It's like going on a walk into some untouched woodlands but all along the way you're finding discarded bottles and wrappers.

Umm, yes. But I'm not sure how to make that public easily. I don't want to build a site today, either. In the meantime, you may want to just printscreen the parts you need, and take some notes on the measurements. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

That's a better solution than printing. I can just screen cap your video from my phone. Then i have all the pictures in a small, organized, compact form. Plus where my tools are it gets really windy most days and my phone isn't going to blow around like a stack of papers would. I cant wait to get started. Thank you so much for your videos. They're always awesome to watch. I get excited every time i see a new video from you in my sub feed.

It should be mild after a week. Be sure to let air get to them (maybe even run a fan over them), and put them in sunlight if possible. That's a lot of surface area! I don't think that Minwax would change their formula, so you shouldn't have anything to worry about. Thanks for letting me know you made them!

pocket83 Thanks for your reply! Yeah, I had a feeling a was being impatient. Just can't wait to play with them lol. Got me wanting to start a homemade Lincoln Logs etsy account. Haha.

This one is not bad, I promise. The fact that you don't have to sand much makes it go quick. And you don't have to do an entire 8' board if you don't want to.

It's really not bad at all. I used two 8' 1x6's from the home center and did *zero* sanding. It all went reasonably quickly. Using a crosscut sled on the table saw to rip the logs from the billets and also to slice the logs in half really simplified some of the sketchier operations.

He says in the video.

I still remember the ride home from the store with that golden game box on my lap. C'mon, mom- let's go!!! Damn. I'm getting old.

Agreed. Much easier to dream than to DO. Especially if you're getting paid for it.

Yes.

Thanks, but I don't sell stuff. I do always try to reply to comments, though! The set featured here is many, many hours worth of labor. You would probably jump out of your skin of I were to give you a price that would still be fair to me. What most people would want to pay probably wouldn't even cover shipping expenses. Sorry.

Yes, I DO have the pattern. Busy today, but I will get it scanned soon. I'll be back with the link in a day or two.

Here you go: postimg.org/image/st60gn8wj/

pocket83 it does not show measurements. My 72 yr old dad would be cutting it. Btw John loved the lincoln logs I created and wanted more

The joy of these logs has brought a boy is immeasurable with the parental loss he has gone thru. Thank for make the process simple and quick.

well I lost the laptop with the saved image of the truss. can you post it again since the link does not work any more.

Rule #1: Don't make any cuts that you're uncomfortable with. If it feels risky, it is. When in doubt, change something-there's always another way to make a cut. Table-saw: Get a zero-clearance plate on your saw right away. Use a 7.25" blade in your table-saw whenever possible, even if it was designed for a 10" blade. Whenever you make a through-cut in a piece of stock, set your saw blade's height to only just above the surface of the material you're about to cut.Remember that one part of that piece should be held firm, and the other part should (usually) be free to gently fall away. After the cut has ended, while still holding the part that isn't the cutoff firmly, freeze, turn it off, and let the saw come to a complete stop. If the saw ever starts to whine or bind, freeze, turn it off, and let the saw come to a complete stop. Don't, ever, try to push through a cut when it seems as though something might go wrong. Keep your stock firmly pressed flat against both the fence and the table at the same time. A piece of stock should not rock or move even a little bit during the course of a cut. I'll repeat that, just so you get how important this is: firmly press your stock flat against both the fence and the table at the same time. Routing: Make sure that your router has a speed adjustment; if it doesn't, buy one for it. A router that spins too quickly will cause burning, and too slow will cause it to catch and/or tear. Your feed rate should be constant but not too quick. Try not to stop without moving the material slightly away from the bit. Don't try to rout an entire profile in one pass. Most routing operations require multiple passes. Starting out, don't try to rout away more than 1/8" of material in a pass, at least until you start to get the hang of it. Try to read up on router table feed direction, because there is (usually) a correct way for any given operation. As long as you aren't trying to take away too much material in one pass, the pickiness of feed direction will be a bit more forgiving. Use a fence on your router table whenever possible, even when your bit has a guide bearing. Clean your router bit with alcohol before using it, for two reasons: 1) a clean cutting edge will make a nicer rout, and 2) a clean shank will be grabbed more securely by a collet. Also watch that the fillet on the bit doesn't prevent it from being secure in the collet. Ask any questions. I'm happy to help, and so are lots of other people here! Good luck, and remember: don't make any cuts that you're uncomfortable with!

You have to admit, that is HOME DEPOT's specialty.

I did make a block set that was a pretty unique hybrid once. There's a vid for it. But Legos? No. It would simply be far too labor intensive. Even though they are so overpriced, making a copy version would exceed that price by far.

Sad to hear! Thanks for responding though. :)

If you're talking about the bottom of page 12, yes, I forgot to add the Oxford comma. "Dirt-cheap" is an idiom.

There's really not much risk involved with cutting halfway through a 10.5" part while the blade is only proud of the deck by 0.75". You'll be hard pressed to invent a jig that'll give you the same amount of control. That's not to say it isn't possible, just that it's nowhere near "simple" as far a jig-making goes. Note (before you respond with your detailed plan indicating the ways in which I'm wrong) that if I were to be setting up for Lincoln Log production, I would unquestionably make a jig as you're describing. The first thing that comes to mind is a locking-toothed push block that would capture both parts. After doing 20 or so of these, reaching in to grab the cut parts would get old. At least a 7.25" blade will stop spinning pretty quick, due to its lessened rotational inertia. But time _is_ money. If you're still reading, you might realize that I evaluate risk as exposure over time; it's easy to hold tight attention over a few questionable operations, but mistakes become certain when those end up installed as SOP. As usual, this is another case of determining what is appropriate for what _you_ are doing.

Because history got rewritten by 2 guys who can't spell!

Metric is the mark of a weak mind. The easy way only applies to cowards.

lol. Then why are you here? Do you want me do give you an insult, to help speed you on your way?

nah.. just tell me how could i have known this video sucked when 98% of your videos are great. tell me how to see in the future so SJW(you seem to be infectec) would leave me alone for leaving shitty comments to shitty videos. make it out of oak. you asked why im here. im here so you can teach me to make a chrystal ball out of pinewood so i could see what i would like to watch before i start watching. also.. im here for more game reviews although i guess they are on the other channel..