I have a hobby sawmill and been thinking of doing a little lob cabin build. This is hands down the most informative video I've watched for the one part of the process I know the least about...the dovetail joints. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this! I'm just down the road in Jasper, GA. Just subscribed!
There was areason, the Hand Hewn logs were left round, because it helps to repewl the water, also use impella rods in the lower level logs, and under windows and doors!! You can make your on rods, cut a PVC pipe in two, and make your mixture of boric acid, in stainless steel boiler, it has to be heated to boil and make the mixture! Then tape up the 1/2 ft pipes and poor them full, let the dry , cut to 2 or 3 inches, they go e very 16 inches!! Pour water in the hole after the rod!! --Impeelas rods are very costly but worth the cost, even if you don't want to make them yourselves!!-- Best product to spray on your logs while building!! Best Product to seal your logs is TWP think its at Sherwin Williams,
@@oldbluffsawmill5235 I'm a 69 year old, life long Log home restorer, designer, Builder, starting at 9 years old on a standing 19835 hand hewn house here on the family farm still building log homes, think I've got one more in me, I also spent 20 years out in Seattle building scribe to fit, Scandinavian houses, there and Japan!! There s just something about a hand Crafted Log Home or simple cabins!! Love your layout, and presentation, I'm dislexic, so I learn best by doing or watching!! I have always just done it with a center line and a framing square!! I build with old logs and they tend to be different, I'm designing a French Style hand Hewn, which used timbers , morticed with tonges on the log ends for setaling!! Timber framed, I have a lot of shorter logs , and nothin g numbered, so out of the box thinking on this one!!
Sounds like you’ve got quite a background in log construction. This being my first one I’ve had to learn on the fly, if you know what I mean. I really appreciate your input and conversation. I’m 66 myself and plan to build a couple of A frames before I sell my sawmill. I’ve enjoyed doing this cabin, it’s hard work for one man but Ol Precious and me are just about ready to build the trusses for the interior ceiling. Thanks again for your comments and for watching. Take care and be safe.
Man that's alot of work. You sure have put alot of thought into it, You will have a nice cabin. Are you going to get some help setting those logs, I bet they will be pretty heavy?
It’s a first for me but I think me and precious can do it. It’s just gonna be slow no matter what. I’m enjoying the heck out of this though. Thanks for your comment and Merry Christmas
They worked from the center line on each end of the logs. Chinking space and notch drop can vary to compensate for different widths of the log ends. Good question, thanks for watching.
Did you say what product you are using for chinking? Perma chink or log jam..something like that? Do those products react with the foam insulation? I know when you use foam board you need to use special adhesive that wont react and dissolve the foam...just wondering if you looked into that? Whatever chemicals are in the chinking may "eat" the foam insulation board.
Good question but in heavy discussions with permachink, their product does not adhere to the polystyrene foam. It sticks to the wood. That’s why they recommend a thickness of no less than 3/8” at the point of contact with the wood. I hope that helps
@@oldbluffsawmill5235 thanks good to know! I DO like the idea of using the foam board vs foam backer rod, or old school fiberglass insulation with lathe nailed over it, seems like the foam board would do a much better job and provide better Rvalue..good luck and keep the videos coming, I love that stuff!
