Thanks for the vinegar tip. I always let the milk go sour to separate the curds and whey. I'll share a tip with you, if that's ok. Use an immersion blender to mix your paint. You'll have no lumps. You will get a lot of foam which you can easily scoop off. Now you won't need to shake your jars of paint. Try it and see if it works for you. Re the immersion blender: don't use the kind with the wire whip. You want the one with the four little cutouts on the sides.
Thank you! My boys are reading The Journeyman by Elizabeth Yates for school. Your video really helped them to understand the book more as well as appreciate the efforts of artisans. Yes, now we'll go make milk paint after watching more of your videos to first build a project that needs to be painted...
Great video I learned so much, not only about paint but that you almost made cheese, I can pee into an automotive funnel to catch kidney stones and how to store my paint. Excellent video, would definitely like to see some video of some furniture that has been used a few years to see how well it has aged with this paint method.
I love using milk paint on my furniture projects and have always wondered how to make it myself. Definitely going to try it out and wanted to let you know your video was very informative and helpful!
Very good tutorial. I prefer milk paint simply b/c it looks right. Modern paints all seem to be so 'plastic', imo. For bare wood, I use pine tar to seal and finish, letting the grain show through. The pine tar protects against bugs and mold, and I'm told that it was once added to milk paint to make the paint more reliable over the long-term. Not sure what that means. Also heard that linseed oil was added, so maybe the pine tar was there to keep the paint from rotting, allowing you to make large batches that you could use for months? The anti-microbial properties of the pine tar certainly would prevent nasties from taking hold, I guess.
Nicely done Joshua.I have made my own milk paint and milk/lime paint for my home of a mix of ferro cement and earth walls and have had great results.I did though do one batch a bit too strong with the casein and had a bit of cracking which I am about to fix.I make my quark from skim milk powder,not sure if powder or fresh is better.One ingredient I do add which helps create a better glue and stops the growth of mold,is borax.I have had some casein/lime paint sitting in a sealed bucket on my verandah for a couple of months and it is better now than it was fresh,the borax and the alkalinity of the lime helps it store for a long time.Cheers
I am ready to try this, need to get pigments, but I am getting 2 gallons a milk daily from my goats. Maybe I can paint the whole house. I suppose I need to experiment with whole milk, it is not easy to skim goat milk down to 1%. Thanks for the great video and the clear instructions.
Thank you so much for sharing. This has to be one of your best videos by far. Again thank you so much I can't wait to do this finish on my Dutch tool chest.
Thank you for showing us how to make it. I plan to try it. I am a PhD chemist as well. I have a though regarding how to easily fix the foaming. Buy one of those anti-gas pills you swallow. They contain dimethicone (sp). At least look for the ones that have this anti foaming agent. Grind it up and mix it with the raw pigment. I'm guessing it would solve the problem.
This video is exactly what we were looking for! Two questions for you 1) can we epoxy over the milk paint? 2) Will milk paint hold up in high humidity like in a bathroom? Thanks so much for making such a great vid! - Brian + Erin
I really did enjoy watching you work!😅 I actually didnt know milk paint was a thing, I learned something today. The other thing I learned was that you have a great sense of humor!! Question, why did you use the reddish brown color as the base coat?😊
Hi I am so glad I stumbled upon your channel I was getting really confused about milk paints and chalk paints and now I think I have a handle on it so cheers from Adelaide Australia
Holy crap that is an involved process just to coat a bench! The "Separation" you mention is the sheen of the milk paint forming a surface layer, much like most enamel paints do- and once cured, you'll find that they resist most any watery liquid going onto them briefly. Sanding or a prewash of a slightly acidic solution will alleviate this from happening or, you can do what you did, and just keep brushing it till it adheres consistently into the surface! Many paints do this, I have encountered it many times on certain paint brands.
that was a quite educational video and I appreciate you taking as much time as you did and going over all the process cuz I learned something new i appreciate it thank you so much
Is the purpose of the red undercoat to achieve a warm black? I am planning on painting 30 x 7m raised garden beds black and want to streamline the process as much as possible. The black will help the beds warm up sooner and extend the growing season and assist with seed germination. But I also want it to look great. Do you think I should treat it with red underneath? Thanks so much for this fantastic video!
Wonderful! I’m inspired! I wonder could you use this to paint walls? Plaster or wallpaper? I have this nagging thought in my mind that my house might just always smell slightly of cheese 🤭 Thanks for the video
I am thinking of making milk paint for a project not just for the experience, but to use some of the milk we are getting in our school lunches, as we can't keep up with it. I have acid-based dyes for yarn. Would those work as a pigment? There is a certain satisfaction in using what we already have.
If someone lives in German speaking areas, you can just buy "Magerquark" in the super market. You don't have to go through the smelly process of making your own Quark.
@@alexandrahubner6736 As I've learned now, if you add 2/3rs the amount of hydrated lime to the quark, you get casein glue. A very tough, water proof wood glue :D
This was really nice and thorough - I've seen a number of "DIY milk paint" tutorials over the years, but this one has the sort of attention to detail and possible drawbacks and how to overcome them that the others don't. Thank you. So I feel more confident to ask... Do you know the amount of curds / quark you get out of this recipe? I'm Czech, and around here you can just buy quark in grocery shops. Even skim quark. It would also come a _lot_ cheaper than curdling a big amount of milk because inversely I can't buy whole galons of milk here. So I've long been pondering doing this and skipping the curdling process because I can, and that way I could also much more easily make a smaller batch for an experiment and just alter the amounts... if I knew what the amount of quark involved was. :-) So could you please give me a ballpark figure for that?
P.S. Woodworking is a bit outside my usual experience but also something I've been low-key interested in for a while so I think you've just gained a new subscriber. I like your presentation style.
So I'm curious to know why you painted The Bench red and then covered it up with the black? I assumed you were going to distress it a little more so that the red could pop through but that wasn't the case
I missed the purpose of using the red paint under the black, does it give the black a multidimensional visual quality? I'd like to try making a slightly minty milk paint. To use on endtables, create the weathered beach bleached look🌊🐚
Has anyone ever tried drying the base to turn it into a fine powder to create a base that could be preserved longer? I'm wondering if it would be possible to make it into a powder and simply add water and the desired pigment to make small batch quickly. I'm very interested in this technique, but I would only be doing small projects with it, and it would be time-consuming to make a batch every time, with a lot of waste. Are there any preservation methods? Thank's 🦊
just came across milk paint for the first time..ever. Also been watching other techniques for using nature found "color pigments"..flowers, rocks..etc. I was wondering if you have ever tried these types of pigments, and what kind of results did you get?
If I were to use less water in making the paint (in order to have a thicker consistency for painting) do you think a chippy appearance could be achieved? I’ve been watching lots of videos on how to create the crackle/chippy look with milk paint and the consistency is much, much thicker than what you’ve demonstrated here. The powdered/pre-made chalk paints are just pricey so I started researching recipes to make my own and stumbled across your video. Thank you for your time in making this tutorial. I learned quite a bit!
First thankyou for posting. I think you covered the subject well. One thing tho, is two diffrent pigments required? or the fade/ used to red the look you were after and was that (two pigment) used in what time frame?
Tnx for this video. I have only two questions - is the lime in 25 kilos bag for plaster good for this and is the color pigment for epoxy good for this or need to be earth pigment?
I tried this but when it's dry the pigment very easily rubs off on my hand when I touch it. How do I make the paint more sticky? I tried adding more base to the pigment but it just becomes watery
I've made casein milk paint by dissolving the curd in ammonia. It's a thicker consistency that can be used as glue or for impasto painting techniques. I assume it can be diluted to a thinner consistency.
Hi, I'm thinking of using this to paint my interior walls. Do you notice if the end product smells like sour milk? I realize the lactose and bacteria are removed, but odor is produce from sugar and protein. I'm really excited to try this, what are your oppinions?
Maybe it was my device, but your vids were blacked out on YT so it was impossible to like or comment. Restarted the app now it works. It was only happening with your vids. Idk wierd.
Why acrylic paint, you already have the medium ? You can make your own colors (beet juice and lemon…for example, a google search might help) . Not sure food coloring is lightfast, though. Easy way to test if your paint holds its color is to let the piece sit for some days in the sun.
Have a question about the 2% milk. They didn’t have 2% milk back in the day. They had full fat whole milk. You said in a comment full fat milk causes problems getting the mixture to work. How did they get it to work?
I liked the video, found it informative and helpful. However, I believe that it would have been much more useful for those deciding if you had taken a moment to show close up of the finished finish. As it stands we see nothing of the effects of sanding through to expose the undercoat, etc. Otherwise, good video, but for future you might want to include that. Thank you.
@@musclvr377 Upon rewatching of the video, I see that my complaint was unwarranted. The close up showing the red paint coming through was clearly shown. It was just so slight that you could easily miss it. Which brings up your point. That is a lot of paint to apply just to cover up and have so tiny an amount show through. Still, nice video and nice looking paint/finish.