For those who don't to use thinner at all because of the fumes on the stainless steel, use alcohol it comes right off and for the fun of it, I tried with Dominican Rum, works like charm 😀. Thank you for another video!
That lube can be found at auto stores, hobby shops, and some gun shops may have it. Amazon is great, but always try to buy local. Great info by the way brother, keep it up
Great video thank you. I saw another video where he lit a candle under the metal and it was coated with the black soot which worked great and easy to wipe off.
Awesome video. Love my ortur master 2 but I’m getting a 80W fiber to get into some serious metal art and deep engraving. Uncoated stainless steel hip flask is definitely on the going fast list
Dude I have been watching your vids all day.. my Xtool D1 should be here Momday so by next Friday I should have something ready to show..we shall see if my 3rd grade edumaction pays off or not. Keep up the great work!
Hey...I just wanted to thank you. As i am new to laser engraving i was wanting to do tublers and everyone i found suggest a spray for stainless steal a blacken spray that cost a small fortune. Thanks to you i am now engraving tumblers. 2 videos and 3 experiments later im engraving and believe me...if you can teach me tech you can teach pigs to write a book 🤷♂️
Highly recommend the Enduramark Blu spray for cleaning the coated metal after engraving. Quick, easy, and shiny results. (I'm not affiliated or have any interest in the company. Just sharing what I've found that works.)
@@BuildDadBuild have your tried the enduramark laser spray on the stainless steel using the D1? I tried dry moly but limited (think I need thicker coat)
Awesome content mate keep it up. Do you run air assist and how often do you clean the head? I’m running a 20w D1 pro, just starting out but having a great time with it
@@BuildDadBuild I'm new to the laser world, just bought my first, one and only so far, laserpecker2 last week. My comment wasn't meant to sound "know it all" but I see those laser sprays are expensive and as for the moly spray, I'm not familiar with it. Does spray paint work? Sorry for the newb question as maybe this is a known to experienced laser jockeys.
Could you do a video on cutting Kaizen foam with the X1. Not much out there on this topic, but would be incredibly useful for making custom Pelican cases / tool organization. Thanks. Love the channel!
@@colourmein1425 I’ve used it 5 times so far, 3 failed projects, 2 successful. User error. Waiting on cold galvanizing compound to try and etch on glass. I like it so far.
Could you do a stainless with the frist machine? To see the difference in the 2 machines. I bought the frist machine and I’m curious. I really enjoy you videos.
Don't forget to factor in the sales taxes that you paid, it is part of your overhead/costs. And your tests are business losses, so they're tax deductible.
First off, been enjoying your Chanel. 2nd, what were your final settings on power and speed? I grabbed some of the Moly Lube but my burns are not that dark when finished. Thanks for any help
Awesome videos. You should get the M1, since it is the one with the least videos. Been trying to apply some of your videos techniques to the M1 laser. How you cleaned the dry moly lube? Can you use Dry moly lube on tumblers?
I love the M1. I honestly just haven't had enough time to play with it. I clean the dry moly with acetone. And yes you can use dry moly on tumblers. Cheers!
First off great video. I noticed when marking my SS flask that the area marked has a little bit of warping to the steel. I tried it again with the flask filled with water and there was a lot of popping and fizzing but it came out the same and no warping. Any reason I should not do this?
Thank you for the video. I know this is not a latest video, but I do go back and forth to it for reference. Do you have an ideal setting for speed and pwer to start with for Atomstack A5 pRO, 10OZ STAINLESS Steel Flask.
@@BuildDadBuild do you have anyone that can assist with providing information as such. Not being funny but many people starting out are using Atomstack because of the starting prices and there is a big environment out there that would like the same information.
Hi I am a new beginner so excuse me for the noob question, but I thought the xtool D1 runs on either lightburn or Xtool creative space software, but I like what you are using it seems simple. Can you use Laserbox as a control sowftare, or just design and then import it to Xtool creative space é lightburn? Thank you!
I have noticed on my d1 that when I position the cross and frame my image or text it shows correctly for my project but when it burns it's always off to the right never dead on like you show, why is that? Thanks again for your help.
I feel like that had something to do with a software update. Check out your version. If you're running anything over V 1.2.0 unistall and reinstall the stable version: support.xtool.com/hc/en-us/articles/4408889202199-Software-for-xTool-D1 Cheers
Yo this is absolutely amazing! I just got a 10w laser, I'm trying to engrave enameled bottles for my friends. Do you have recommended settings for power and speed?
Just curious why you didn’t use the xtool to etch or engrave the stainless steel flask? I’m trying to engrave stainless steel charms about 1-2” rounds but when I process it they come out very pale and a little bluish would my settings be off?
Hello I have a question. I'm hoping you would have an answer to. So I will have the M1 by Xtool. Do you think this method your doing will work with the M1? Thanks Shar
Do you prefer the results with Eduramark or Dry Moly most? I see the Enduramark is more expensive but less prep work and Dry Moly is more prep but much less expensive.
Enduramark. Hands down. The time it saves is worth the money. If you want to check it out use Promo Code: BuildDadBuild for 20% off all products Cheers
So the end result looked great on the stainless. You swapped lasers. My question, can the Aufero Laser 2 do that also. I was so interested in the result but a different laser was used in the end. Thanks!
You're engraving time was faster than actual time. My first one estimated time was 11 minutes and real time is a couple hours. Do I have an issue? Also, yours look completely black until cleaned and mine just need a few wipes to clean it up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
1st time getting a laser engraver i got a Latitool F50 we are also using laser GRBL been watching your videos and trying to figure ours out lol they cant be to much difference any tips on what to use like have u ever tried laserGRBL or used a latitool engraver any kind of help would be great thank you very much
Can you use these to cut foam? Or would it just melt? I have a foam cutting table, but if you could use this to cut out shapes from foam to frame items, that would be pretty neat-oh.
Isn't it easier to center by cutting outline in the paper and just position the object in that outline and than remove the outline from laser layer and boom your have centerest object to every mm.
Hey man, its me again :-) I did both of the flash, the black and the stainless steel. Did you face that too, that you get bumps and dents in the stainless steel flasks?I dont know if this happens because i didnt engrave it with the clasp open, so maybe it happens from the heated air in!? i really dont know, but the black coated ones came out fan-fucking-tastic
@@mariewood8267 it was my mistake. It does works as he shows. The portion I tried to do was aluminum. (It never occurred to me it had some parts of stainless steel, like the rim and bottom portion, and some aluminum)
@@BuildDadBuild Have you run this process with LightBurn? I'm having an issue with the 30oz Yeti Stainless Steel tumbler. Dry moly (with some work) rubs off after marking. I've tried 500mm/min @100% and even 180mm/min @100% and same results. Pointers?
I guess I'm a long way down in the comments now, But .... Does anyone in the UK have either an alternative to the Dry Moly, or a source that isn't costing £70 for a tin?.
sometimes when I do insulated water bottles, the laser etched part doesn't come out silver. The exact settings on one bottle may result in nice results and other times it looks like there still a tiny bit of paint left. Any advice? I'm at 100% at 2.75 in/sec at 260 lines/in on a 10 W diode.
It might just be the color of the paint. They all react differently. And when you get closer to a blue color you'll notice discrepancies due to the color of the beam of the laser.
FYI: I was going to subscribe to your channel but there are way too many Shorts. I hate those in my subscription feed. No hard feelings, just thought you might like to know that some people despise Shorts.