I've found purchasing empty caulking tubes beforehand and loading them with the thickened resin sure makes it easier to fill in gaps, and it's a lot faster than having to spatula it into the openings. The smaller sized caulking tubes will hold about 300 grams, unless loaded with micro-balloons. Then only about 220 grams due to the fact it thickens and expands the resin some. To load the tubes just shove it down inside them with a paint mixing stick. Make sure the opening on the pointy end is open and free first, so the air can escape out the other end. Catalyze at 1 % mekp. I haven't tried using the larger sized caulking tubes that hold a quart. It might be a challenge to use that much before it starts to gel, unless you really lay it out fast. Also to reach hard to access areas you can slip a needed length of clear tygon tubing over the caulking tube end and get it into areas that may be hard to fit the caulking gun. The rule of thumb is to add cabosil until the mix will hang on a mixing stick without falling off. If it won't, then it will move around some after it's applied and run. There's almost no applications where that consistency would be needed.
I put the hardener after I put the silica and haven't had any problems. I will make a huge batch and store it. Then when I do need it I take what I need and add hardener whenever I need it.
It is REALLY important that you wear a respirator during these activities. Particularly with the silica. That stuff is incredibly dangerous. It does sand well, but micro bubbles will allow it to sand even better.
Wow... I love your video series Thank you!!! This March I begin the complete rebuild of my boat floor just as you have demonstrated. Is there a video that lists the fiberglass needed? For example the rough fiber and then the strong fiber that goes over the top? Also, where can I get it? I bought a new crate motor and I am so excited to drop it into a new completely refurbished boat interior. I will watch your videos with greater concentration as I progress through each phase. I am a novice at DYI.
Quick to the point video appreciate it.Been searching and wading thru long videos for this very thing and boom on the 10th one you mail it in couple mins
U can use cabisil and chopped strand fibers just like he did u can also take the fiberglass dust from grinding and cutting old glass out as long as u "sift" big chunk out,but frisco the man i love his boat rebuilding vids,so helpful and diy,thanks jay!
Im not to sure if you have thought this through. But when you are mixing any filler with resin. By putting the micro fibres in first and letting it soak up, means when you add the catalyst/hardner, there is a possibility that the fibre's with soaked in resin will not see the catalyst Be careful adding catalyst last
Brother, how much work time do I have with this? You didn't show how much hardener you used. I'm going to make some to put a transom into place and need a little time to spread it on both the new transom and the shell I'm adhering it to. Thank you for your help
hey Frisco, I have been watching your videos and am currious, are you using "poly resin" or "epoxy resin"? I have a 22' Baja that needs some floor work. All the help would be great!!!
could this be used as a paste for a complete GRP moulding? How strong would this be compared with 3 layers of csm layup if it was troweled on 1/4" thick? More expensive in materials but way faster to do.
Hi, I’m an artist and I am wondering how to thicken polycrylic or resin for a specific technique. I was wondering if you could help. I have heard from other artists that cornstarch works to thicken acrylic paint, but I’m wondering if that would change the clarity and transparency of the crystal clear medium? You seem like you know a lot in this area, do you have any advice? Thanks!
Question please, for peanut butter hardner only add finally prior to the application right?. Also what will be the hardner/MEKP ratio is that 2% of the total weight included silica ,resin & 1/4 inch finer glass piece or based on the resin?. Pleaae clear
I just had a go at it and I think where I screwed up was by using the west system 205 fast hardner.. It turned into a brick in the blink of an eye.. it completely skipped the peanut butter part.. went straight to brick
Given the time to mix and thicken the resin with the silica, what percentage MEK-P do you use? My reasoning is that if one adds, say, 1.5%, and then spend some time thickening the mix, then it leaves less time to apply the paste before the stuff kicks? Right? Am I making sense here??
I bought a glastron hpv 165 last year for my birthday and the second day out buddies bondo work popped loose and my 5 foot cracks down the strakes of my hull showed themselves. So to make a long story short everything I have cut and ground out of the boat hull and have done allot of reading since, my question to you is would u pack a resin,milled fiber,silica, 1/4 csm type mixture into the tapered out and cleaned cracks which I have masking taped from the underside then layups overtop or would u just use simple resin and catalyst then glass overtop? I thought the mixture would kinda give the crack a bit of structural paste ontop of my layup after which will consist of 1.5 csm, woven 18oz, 1.5 csm. The boat will be flipped over and glassed from the other side after aswell. Any input would be greatly appreciated at this point as im feeling a bit stuck on a decision here and not much warmer weather left to take advantage of up here in Ontario Canada
drew2truth i think your idea of the resin and matt fibreglass probably three layers built up for added strength...than once that fully hardens and sets fooat it in with a fibreglass reinforced filler sand that than some regular bondo for finishing should be extremely strong just my personal opinion...cheers from another mate from ontario!!
Thanks for the video but you should have had a respirator on since you had a cloud of silica dust everywhere. When I use this stuff without a respirator I am very careful no to have it floating around and you should as well
Is it laminating resin..?? Laminating is the process you use in a repair, using resin and chop strand matt to laminate a repair, polyester resin is used on most repairs on standard runabout boats or powered boats, epoxy resin is used on most sailed boats or unpowered boats, Now for the gelcoat question..... unless you are making a product from a mould you don't use gelcoat for a repair, you need to use gelcoat with wax and styrene in it to make into flow coat to cure it as you have asked you need to use catalyst this is an activator and will harden the flow coat.
I have a question for you. IAM replacing the stringers in my fiberglass boat. I used epoxy resin,milled glass and cabosil. all the other batches I did started drying clear to a like pinkish. the very last batch I did has dried a yellow color. any ideas. thanks
Nice Vids FJ, thanks for sharing. I've used Talc powder to thicken Poly resin to make a fairing compound for exterior hull repair...seems to do the same as Fumed Silica or flour (the talc actually is easy to spread and dries smooth.) Any reservations about using it in this application, instead of fumed Silica?
I made peanut butter with finishing resin . Anybody know if that’s okay? I used up all the laminating resin so all I had was the finishing resin . Using total boat poly resin.
Actually, if you want it to have structurally strength, you do. The fibers add the binding agent to everything. Resin is very weak without it. Take a piece of resin thickened with cabosil and one with cabosil and fibers. If you hit it with a hammer, the one without will shatter.
Where do you buy the chopped glass and fumed silica at? would lows or home depot have it iv been looking around and can not find this stuff. Need help at the point on my boat were the floors are ready to go in but i need this before i start that section. Great videos sir
