You just made my life so much easier…was about to risk the aesthetics of the entirety of a fence job by trying to cut the post tops after installation…with a skill saw…freehand. However now I will cut the 2” off the top of each post and use what I’ve just learned to make a more accurate and pleasing cut to make the pyramid shape and reinstall on the post while preserving the look of uniformity by utilizing the same grain pattern on each post. BOOM THANK YOU
Boom is right. - It works for me. - I reiterate: Do NOT get your fingers close to the blade. - Practice using the push stick or riding your hands along the fence in a manner impossible they can interact with the blade.
A lot of safety orientated comments here, appreciated and listened to here, thanks,,, but also I like your videos as being a beginner too you gotta learn somewhere, keep em coming , ps watch your fingers mate, I need more videos
The reason there are a lot of safety oriented comments is because table saws are dangerous. - But, NO MATTER what you do, you can't be cut if you're not near the blade. - I try very hard to keep the saw deck the perimeter of my hands.
Thank you for positively making my day. Keep up the good work. We post on the socials, too if you're on them. All our stuff--FB, IG, Twitter--is @myfixituplife
Cool technique, you obviously don't need anymore safety critique. Finishing up a backyard fence rebuild; I'm short (4) 8" x 8" copper pyramid post tops. Nevermind finding them, difficult at best; but holy moo what they want for them. Being the end of the job the ones that need tops are back around the corner nobody will get a chance to scrutinize. Copper colored paint and your idea to the rescue, of my project and my wallet. Thank you, thank you! You kind of remind me of J Mantzel. Ex-pat (Canadian) RU-vidr that has all kinds of projects going in Central America; solar powered boats, building a house, also a cathedral. If you haven't heard of him check him out; very interesting fella, takes you through his problem solving during projects. Again thanks! 👍 ✌
i came here, travelled all the way from Australia to find a solution to my barren top posts. I then realised my posts do not matter, its my outdoor furniture that really needs these post caps.
Hey, safety concerns aside, great informative video. Who wants to pay $$ per post cap when you can customize your own! Dumb question from a newbie woodworker - what is the cast aluminum piece that you have screwed to your sacrificial fence? Trying to figure out what that is so I can find where to buy it. Gotta to protect those fingers. thanks!
Hey TD - Thank you! Yes, a cross-cut sled might be a better play here for safety. I appreciate your kind words nonetheless. I think what you're seeing is the stock fence on this table saw which was the ill-fated Bosch Reaxx (competitor to SawStop). Saw is long gone. Using the Skilsaw wormdrive now and I can tell you it's powerful and heavy.
They absolutely will. Trim them to the size you need for the post you want a cap for and go to town. I like to use the table saw for that. As always, be careful.
Danger, danger, danger! NEVER use the miter gauge or your hand to move a piece of wood through the blade pushing on the left side of the blade with the wood against the fence. Yeah, it works but it's also a great way to accomplish kickback. That piece of wood to the right of the blade could jam and then the blade throws the whole darn thing at you at 100 miles an hour. It will hurt and it happens in a split second. Additionally, I see no riving knife on the table saw and the blade guard has been removed. Very unsafe.
Mike - I appreciate your comment. While I've never had a post cap kick back, I have had a piece or two javelin back at me and what you are saying NO JOKE. What I found with the pieces that did kick back was that my fence wasn't parallel to the blade. the piece pinched and--boom--back it came. -- In hindsight--heck I knew it while I was shooting this, but not enough to do anything about it--I should have made a cross-cut sled. -- Again, your comment is appreciated and respected. Keep the greasy side down.
It goes without saying that you could be called stumpy nubs 2 for the risk of having you hand pulled into the blade despite you thinking you were far enough away. The actual end product was good. Get some Ready Seal stain & preservative next time you make pallet furniture so it doesn’t go to hell like the stuff shown.
I've probably cut 50-post caps like this. Push sticks and hands on the fence. - As for pallet furniture, that was a thing, but I'm pretty sure my days of pallet work are over. Good tip, though.
Lots of criticism! Cabinet maker for 35+ years.. I've done much worse than that.. jobs gotta get done.. we just know the risks and are very careful.. well done sir!!!
Never use your fence as a stop block. Instead clamp a piece of scrap to your fence in front of the blade to act as your stop so the piece can't bind between the blade and the fence.
I think I get what you're saying, but I'm not sure. - I'm not using the fence as anything other than the fence. Binding happens, in my experience, if the fence and blade aren't parallel. - And that could very much happen here--it didn't--using a miter gauge not cinched tight. - Comment appreciated.
@@myfixituplife in a nutshell.. when you were making your repeated crosscuts to get your caps cut to length there was a pinch hazard. clamp a small piece of scrap to the fence in front of the blade, it acts as a spacer, so once you start making the cut there is no chance for your workpiece to pinch itself between the blade and fence causing a catastrophic kickback. This operation in your video is a very risky cut. Yes your blade absolutely needs to be parallel to the miter slot but that's a separate topic. I'd highly encourage you to watch some stumpy nubs, he has a plethora of videos on table saw safety.
@@myfixituplifeEven if your fence is parallel to the blade, the part that you are cutting off can change shape as you are cutting it due to the release of internal tensions in the wood. Also, as the cut is completed, the nub that you cut off can twist and jam. Once it jams from wood movement or from twisting, the momentum of the blade doesn’t stop, and clears the jam all at once. Then the cutoff becomes a projectile. If you’re going to make miter cuts against the grain, you’re best off making a sled and building a jig to hold everything.
All kind of things wrong with the way you’re setting up the cuts. Makes for a dangerous tutorial if someone unfamiliar with tablesaws does it like you’ve shown.
I do and don't disagree. This is an advanced table saw technique. On the other hand, it shows someone who doesn't know table saws what's at stake, right? Thank you.
All engagement with power tool is inherently risky. I take precautions and have years of experience doing this. I'd never publish something I thought would get people hurt. At the same time, I acknowledge that there is a safer way to do this and say so in the video. The point is to be as careful as you know how. And learn ways to get better.
Yeah, I know. And I hear you. I have, albeit subtle, muscle memory rules to keep my digits out of harm's way. I appreciate your comment and others should take heed, as will I.
I can’t believe you’ve kept this up. It’s a lawsuit waiting to happen. Make a vertical panel jig and say everyone’s fingers. You’re going to get a new person maimed. Jesus
A vertical panel jig is a good idea. Last time I checked, I wasn't forcing anybody to do anything. I have a healthy respect for 3500-rpm. I know what it's capable of and that steel doesn't distinguish between wood and people.
@@johnvogler5335 I've posted hundreds of videos, written thousands of articles and blogs. I get that you don't like this--and if I get that it can be done more safely; what I'm doing is not reckless, but it could be safer for sure--what makes you think I haven't considered the well being of who consumes my content?
GOD forbid some Noob sees this and tries this on a table saw...you are going to get someone killed if not yourself. If you keep this video up...you should turn it into WHAT NOT TO DO...and make it a safety video lesson. They really should require disclaimers on videos with such blatant disregard. You might not care or worry about your own safety...but as a content creator you should consider the people who watch this and try to imitate it.
I appreciate your insight. Using the miter gauge proves tricky for this. cross-cut sled would probably be the safest option. I care very much for my safety, however.
I was going to comment myself but you and others have said it already, thank you! I cringed watching this video, it’s dangerous and should not be posted, especially for new and inexperienced woodworkers as a how- to video!
You are doing one of the most dangerous work on a table saw. When you crosscut the first piece I had to close my eyes!!! Never, never, NEVER crosscut a piece using the fence in the way that you do: if the piece of wood between the fence and the blade rotate a little bit, you have a fatal kickback, VERY DANGEROUS!! there are a lot of videos showing how to properly make this operation. Never do this!!!
I 100% agree that this is dangerous work on a table saw. But you know what else is dangerous? A table saw. - I try to produce content for real world-ers. I've been at this for decades and, yeah, I should have made a cross-cut sled. But I didn't make a cross-cut sled. So here we are. 3500 RPM is dangerous. It's loud. - Let's make it as safe and productive as we can.
I appreciate the accolade. At the same time, we try things. Yeah, the pallet phase has passed (thank you!) but even today, I try new things on every deck I build. I try to refine wasted motion, pack in quality and customer service into an everything-is-a-prototype business model. AND record it as I go. Bumps, meet Road.
