How To Make Rad Short Turns the Easy Way 

Always try to keep some bloopers. Crashing is often the best part of skiing

I was just about to leave the same comment 😊. Like ur channel even more now❤

@@jmswng77 Thank you 🥰

​@@StompItTutorialshahaha pain is gain! Thanks for the vid!

Thats amazing thank you very :) I put in about 15 days of training last winter then did the level 4. Great time and I can feel how much I improved.

Came to comment this. Massive improvements all around over even just the last season.

@@lkvt123 Thank you. Cant wait to train more and get better on all things ski related.

53 years WOW

I'm 52, have only skied 28 yrs. I'm so envious of you Master OG!

Thank you 🙏 I’m glad you find it helpful as it takes a lot more time doing those too. 😀

how is he not pissing off the other skiers on the slope though? two people taking up a huge portion of the trail would irritate me...

Thank you Nesh 😊

Thank you :)

Thank you for that Philip! :D

Thank you 🙏

Glad you liked it!

Tack!

Good luck! Its cool to think about the bananas but what might help is to try to use the movements from the carved turns in the short turns. Thats atleast what was a game changer for myself.

Tack Johan!

Happy to help!

Thank you Tom! Something clicked last winter just before getting the level 4 tech. I’m surprised to say it but I’m so into short turns.

@@StompItTutorials when they get to this point they are really such a fun rewarding challenge

@@Bigpictureskiing They sure are! 😎

Mittens, Black Diamond Spark is great. Hestra makes some nice ones too.

Thank you Roman!

Atomic S9 FIS

It matters. 13-16R should be fine.

What a lovely comment. Thank you very much :)

The Bentchetler Pole

Correct.

I'm 5'5" and I use these techniques with skis that are 93 wide and 189 long.

It's going to depend on the skis. Do they have a short radius for a pow ski? A lot of camber underfoot? Metal? I think you can use the same techniques with such skis. The results would be better on a dedicated carving ski though.

it's about the radius not the waist width. Width will add a slight delay adge to edge but since we're not racing it's not a big deal. Radius will determine if you can carve a turn with this shape (16m or less radius) or if you'll have to skid this shape turn no matter what (20m+). I ski on 3 skis for this reason, line blades, 181cm, 13.5m radius, armada stranger, 180cm, 15.8m radius and fatypus m5s, 188cm, 15m radius. The blades are the narrowest underfoot at 95 but also have the widest shovels. The armadas and fatypus are both 100mm+ underfoot.

Atomic something like Revent

Dude, you're definitely not an advanced skier if you've never owned skis, or haven't skied a lot of powder.

Try demo-ing some all mountain skis before taking the big plunge. Some shops apply your rentals to your purchase price.

yes! much more interested in getting on an edge, and then you can start to pressurise said edge :)

Any slalom type ski. Standard slalom is really fun but in this video I ski a FIS version of the Atomic S9. Very fun but I am just about good enough to handle it.

For anyone looking for a short-radius carver without having to deal with the demands and restrictions of an FIS slalom, I would recommend my two favorite carving skis. The Head e-SLR which has an 11.5 meter radius in a standard slalom length of 165 or the more versatile Head e-Original which has a 12.1 meter radius in a longer 170 length. Both have quick 66 mm waists and two sheets of metal without being overly stiff.

A shorter ski will be easier to turn and be a lot of fun in perfect conditions. Longer skis will have a smoother ride, better edge grip on firm, icy slopes and generally be faster. The better your skills, the bigger you are and the faster you go will all point you towards a longer ski. For frontside carving purposes a 160cm would be short, a 180cm would be long. If you don't know where you stand on the spectrum go for a 170cm. Have fun!

Try nice slow short turns on 1 leg on the outside ski. Pay extra attention to your weaker leg.

@@StompItTutorials sorry not necassarily for carving, more for tricks 😅 im a confident carver

Not sure what you mean.

@@StompItTutorials Jens, I reviewed my question and can see that its confusing. I should be able to answer my own question performing a movement analysis. // Marshall

No, the moment you transition from turn to turn, the ski's actually carve. On the midpoint of the turn, the skis already slide. What causes the slide is your weight being forward in the turn. Actually it's really easy to feel/replicate. If you shift your balance forward throughout the whole turn, your tails will slip. Just make turns with your balance way way forward.... you'll end up going backwards because your tails slip out while your tips go up the mountain. The hard part is to find the balance: how much forward do you need for a little slip? And when will you shift balance backwards to your tails again, and at which rate to grip in time before the end of the turn? Because getting the tails to slide is quite easy, but most people with brushed turns cannot go into a full carve at the end of the turn because they slipped out too much. That is a very inefficient way as your transition gets slaughtered.

@@davesmulders3931 Dave, I don’t believe Jen's purpose was to create a skid. My understanding is skidding in a short radius turn is the result of overturning the skis, making the turn radius tighter than the inherent turning radius of the ski. I was questioning Jens because he said something about the steering action lightening the tails, which I didn't comprehend.

@@gogglebro9421 Yeah, you obviously miss the point I'm afraid. You lighten the tails, so that they skid. There is no other reason to lighten the tails. How would you make the banana shape if you cannot skid the ski? The whole point of the video is to show a controlled skid in every turn, for smaller turn radius and additional speed control.

I don’t personally think that you need to, but I’m no pro. Having a ski with a shorter turn radius (something like 17-19m) helps a lot in my opinion. Regardless of what ski you’re on you can always improve, don’t let yourself get too much into the mindset of thinking you need different equipment to get better. Keep at it!

Probably its your technique thats lacking and not the gear. Changing to a pure piste ski can help but you still need to put in the training.

i had this problem too, all mountain skis can carve but you gotta keep more speed going to actually get them to work properly. They're stiff and the side-cut radius makes a huge turn if u wanna carve without skidding.

@@jamesrosenberg1612 thanks. This makes a lot of sense to me. Have definitely been finding a need to pick up a lot of speed. I felt my long sweeping carves were okay but I've been struggling more with consistent short turns. I'm sure a better skiier could force the short turns but it's probably not optimal to learn this way... I will keep at it regardless! But maybe I'll treat myself to some new skiis at some point :)

@@iceicebabys one thing that helped me was some exercises from triggerboy62 on how to carve low. Essentially being lower and more knee bent from the center position, makes it easier to get the skis on edge for short turns

@@the.hiphopapotamus I'm curious if there is a short turn style that could be done at a slower speed?

@@the.hiphopapotamus That's funny, I was just about to add a reply to ski backwards!

Do some drills. Try turns where you balance entirely on the outside ski and the inside ski is lifted 100% off the snow. If it's hard, then your balance is probably off. Alternately, try skiing only on one ski. Another option is to ski slowish parallel turns, focus on your edge change and see if you can get both skis to change edges at the same time and rate. That's a start. :)

He mentioned it briefly when talking about couloirs. Short turns have much tighter radii (shorter turns), so you can control your speed in tight terrain like moguls, couloirs, trees, etc.

It's like a different gears for different terrain. You could consider short turns as low range on a 4x4. The idea is to keep control not have the speed run away.

Well it's quite easy to imagine. Carved turns are restricted in radius by the ski's radius, and are the most efficient as it is the way with the least friction. So when do you need short turns? When you want a shorter/tighter turn, and when you want to brush off some speed. In a carved turn you can control speed by angulation in the lower part of the turn and effectively holding the turn longer in the lower part (in contrast to angulation in the top part: this will actually propel you down the hill faster). If that range of control of speed is not enough, you will need to do a short turn and litterally brush off speed with the tails of your ski. And the other obvious reason to use a short turn is when you are in a narrow space: you let your ski's slip at the back to make the turn shorter. The third reason to use a short turn is when it is very icy. The angulation needed for your ski's to be able to come to their designed radius, is sometimes too flat for the grip you have on the hardpack/ice. So you'll effectively turn your 13m slalomskis into 35m GS skis. By sliding your tails, you can still maintain a shorter turn shape, while not having to risk your skis sliding away underneath of you. Like what happened to Jens. It is true that you probably could make it stick/carve on icy hardpack, but you'll need to sharpen your skis every other day and probably run a 87 to 85 degree sidewall for that, and a consistent 0.5 degree tuning (not a radial tuning where it flares off). You need a torsion-stiff ski for that as well. You effectively then made your ski into a race ski and it'll only want to carve no matter the conditions. So that is why us mere mortals use a short turn.

Thank you all, for the insightful responses!

@@davesmulders3931 great explanation! Do you mind explaining what you meant about angulation in the top part making you go faster? I can kind of picture what you mean from personal experience but I’m trying to wrap my head around why it causes acceleration and not deceleration.

165cm S9 FIS

@@StompItTutorials Thanks a lot

I need help understanding the question? I rode a S9 FIS about 13m.

@@StompItTutorials ah I see, it's just that it seems like a lot of expert skier are demonstrating short turns on GS type skis with larger sidecut radius to help with the blending of edging and sliding, so I'm just very curious about the difference of doing short turns on short radius skis (say less than 16m) and doing short turns on long radius skis (say over 18m) is all about. Thanks

Your absolutely right. I typically do it religiously when filming it sometimes get screwed up.

Your absolutely right. When filming my routine of doing so gets messed up occasionally. I´ll do better.

@@StompItTutorials Good on you Jens for accepting and learning from this across multiple comments. Takes a big man to say "I can do better"!

Yes and its fine but I am working on pulling it of without flying into the next one. See Marcel Hirscher here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ardYbiGuFSg.html

Thanks, will do!

Thought the same thing. There was a lot of space....

🤷🏼‍♂️

True, I messed up.

Haha I can relate. I used to feel a bit like you. As I´ve gotten better at it I love it as its an easy way to experience forces that I cant quite control on a normal slope :P But as you say not all the time, too tiring.

What genre would you prefer?

Thank you Jeremy thats constructive criticism. Im expecting my first child with my lady since 8 years and I continuously improve my skiing which I love to share on the internet, my mistakes and lessons I learned over the year. Rewarding to share what its like to do double corks to short turns. Your next. What is is like to be you acting in such a nice way on the internet?