Looks awesome! Personally I like the more transparent look with the larger bases. You can see further into them and don’t loose all of the details you put closer to the middle. Plus it gives more of a shallow water look IMO
These are so beautiful. When I first started getting into Sigmar, I wanted to choose the Deepkin because their model designs are so lovely, and these bases look like the perfect complement.
Im wondering if for making large amounts of these it would be easier to make a mould that the base can fit into out of a material that can flex and doesn't stick to resin. Then you build your base on a flat disk the size of the top of the base, put that at the bottom of the mould and then pour the resin over the top. Afterwards stick the puck to the base.
thanks a ton I was really happy with how they came out. they were my very first attempt at doing anything with resin so I figured I should share with the community how easy it was to do!
Thank you for this video, I've been using this video as a reference for my Skaven army for a couple of years now. I've based about 200 models in this style. Like you said, it's a lot easier than it looks to work with. I mix mine with some lime green pigment powder. I use the containment molds from Greenstuff world, which doesn't feature all of the base sizes, so I've had to build a mold myself each time that occurs. For the multitudes of Clanrats to get them batch-gunged, I used 25mm cap ends. A few things I've done differently: - I didn't paint the rim on the base. The resin will be going over the rim, so a coloured rim just looks weird. Either paint it in the colour of the rest of the base or the colour of the resin if you're using coloured resin. - I did this and it's a word of warning: varnishing the model on the base will either make the bases' resin opaque or cloudy. I coloured my resin before pouring which was already translucent, but the varnish obscures almost all details I put inside the resin. If you don't want that, remove the model from the base before varnishing.
I just poured my resin using your technique dude ! I'm about to wait for 24-84 hours and then remove the plastic sheets. Thank you so much, my Idoneths will look gorgeous thanks to you !
95% Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol) will release the hot glue. Just let capillary action pull a few drops between the hot glue and surface and it will release in short order.
the fact that you hadda point out "you don't HAVE TO go buy a specific shade, you can just mix paint to taste..." is genuinely terrifying. i worry about anyone who would argue against mixing tones/shades yourself.
I don't get do this myself because of time and space for materials among other things,but it's awesome watching you work.. Also what is that song in your back ground,I couldn't stop listening to it 😂
These are quite easy to do - the main thing is to ensure you seal the resin properly. I use a thin strip of laminate (shiny side in) which I then sellotape, bit by bit to the base (I do NOT start by taping the strip to the base, as it can leave a mark). Once it is secured, you just pour in your resin mix, leave it for around 12-15 hours and remove the strip. Then leave it for another 24 hours to harden properly. If you muck about with it before then, it can still leave finger marks/prints etc....
Hearing Vallejo paints make me sad 😆 bought a bunch of vallejo model air if memory serves me right and tried airbrushing (my gunpla) and a couple more for hand paiting but i didnt push thru with and its been sitting in storage for 4 plus years.... Btw, new fan here of your channel. Been reading W40K for a few years now, i started with Yarrick when i saw the cover of the book in my local bookstore and boom! Hooked ever since and yeah i followed with the Horus Heresy. Imho w40k universe is more exciting than my other book collection, Star Wars, but i do have like 30 plus books and illustrstions of SW and have em figures and vehicles. WH40K is tied to my Aliens, AVP and Predator books.. Hopefully, i could start collecting WH40K tabletop figs and probably try playing it or go with the 6" or was it 3.75 inch figures that i think is already out in the market. More power man and MTFBWY! -tambay guy from SoCal and Philippines
Very good tutorial I love the water effect but like everyone else I hated the damn music, couldn't stand it after a minute. Every time you weren't talking I was just pushing the right arrow key to skip forward
Hey I'm building some water bases for my exocrine but can't find a link for letchin, if some one could comment a link where I could buy some it would be greatly appreciated, thanks
Love this tutorial, going to try it very soon!! I used to work with resin, and wanted to offer a tip (hopefully it will help, if not as much as this video helped me) - you can go over your resin in the cup before pouring with a lighter or a heat gun to pop the bubbles, or give it a quick squirt with isopropyl alcohol :) definitely don't use isopropyl once it's poured though; it strips acrylic paint and will ruin your rocks
can you list the products used so I can copy your method exactly? It seems there are a few different water resin videos and they all use different stuff. I like your method the best by far~!
@@LoftOfTheUniverse Yes! you can also bevile the edges at the top with the knife as well. if your worried about it you can use a less thick plastic to make the dam so you will get a much subtly mold line ( if any at all) and additionally most of the ones you make ( if your careful ) wont show a line at all. I didnt have really any lines show up on the ones I did as part of the deepkin army I made :)
Yup. You can make it as high and deep as you want. Bare in mind if you use uv resin you'll need more than a simple uv torch to cure it, but with epoxy it will be fine
Great tutorial! This is going to make expanding on my old Death Guard (who are marching through a swamp) waaaay easier. Only thing I would add is that I saw another video where the figures were placed into the water effect. The guy used a kid's Tylenol syringe to pump the resin around the figure. They seem pretty cheap online, too. Thanks again for showing this process!