I use a very similar method but bend the wire up into the center hole in the points. The outer tube is glued in place and covered with scenic. It's a simple method that works as well now as it always has. Good on you for showing everyone. Cheers!
Glad to see a foray back in OO. Nothing against N, it's just a bit small for me. I think this is the first time I've seen an instruction video on wire and tube turnout controls - thanks for doing this! Simple and effective.
Simple is good, well done. I've had success using brake/gear cables from bicycles either new from the shop, or scavenged from an old bike. They are flexible so can have the control knobs (good idea the pencil sections) located exactly where required. Cheers, David, Tasmania.
Thank you Mike for reminding us of this low cost turnout control method. For those in North America, Hobby Lobby has similar components, in addition to the floral wire, K&S brass wire and tubes are available. BTW the jewelery beads also make great handles.
Sometimes, old tech is simpler :o) Thinking back to about 60 years ago, the advice then was to cut back the tube slightly and include an 'omega loop' in line somewhere along the wire. This acted as a safety feature if the wire was pushed or pulled too enthusiastically - in normal use the loop just transmitted the force in either direction, but if there was excessive movement the loop either closed up or opened up to compensate, protecting the point. A tip I was recently given for tension lock couplings (but haven't tried yet) was to glue a magnet to the end of a tube/pencil or something and then you just dip it on to the top of the couplings and it will lift both link bars. I suppose you could just magnetise an ordinary screw or nail!
Great solution again. Not for every brand though, a brand like Roco has points that wont stay put unless a manual throw or point motor is attached. Easy solution for that would be a screw at the end to turn it in the desired position and lock it in place.
I have been reviewing all the videos on this topic as my layout does not presently have point motors. “Just like that” Tommy must have had a hand in this. 👍💥🔥
Well done Mike, how wonderfully simple! I'd have thought Doug could have 3D printed some pretty knobs rather than using a pencil - but the main thing is that it works😃
N is great but since I have H0 and OO, I am glad with this video. Great idea for a remote control of switches 👍 I didn't know about the smaller frog in Peco points, I should have checked that before buying my Hornby points. The frog is indeed bigger and it seems quite elevated, wheelsets with larger flanges tend to jump over them... 🐸
Hi Mike i love this sort of thing,no need for expensive point motors and wiring is there! I have seen this before some where,but this person had his mounted under the baseboard.But both are great ideas.Playing with trains should be fun and easy😀
Thanks for posting this video. I've just done this on my OO inglenook this afternoon. A length of plastruct tube and two lengths of brass wire set me back the huge total of £2.06 from my local model shop (The Model Shop, Northampton) and works beautifully. I used hot glue to attach the tube to the board and cut down some spare dowels from flat-pack furniture for the knobs on the end of the wire.
This is a great idea, love it, defo gonna do this to my own when I get started. Glad ur back to making a inglenook shunting layout in 00... but loving the N too... keep these grwat videos and tips coming please, my fav model railways channel... the simple things are the best ideas 👌🏻
Back in the 1970's, a hobby shop used bent down nails instead of a pencil, hooked to the wire. It protruded up near the edge of the board. It was neat for a similar switching layout. That was back before Tortoise switch machines and plastic hand throws.
Yes! Perfect. RC airplanes use this system and there so many lengths and diameters. They come as a set wire and tube you don't need to buy separate. If you wanted, you could drive them with a simple servo and servo test controller. It would better to have the servos away from the switch so they are easier to access and no long runs of wires. Running them under the table and even being able to have flexibility of the tubes leaves lots of options. I think you could go up to 3' with no issue as long as you secure your tubing.
I bought some model aircraft actuator wire and found it too hard and almost impossible to cut to length - it would ruin Xuron track cutters. I think I used a hacksaw in the end. It looks as if you found a better solution.
@DavidJones-hd1jj yes, dremel cut off wheel. That said, never had an issue cutting with linesman plyers. Maybe you are using the heavery gauge. You need the smaller stuff. Like for park flyers and such. I will look up the gauges when i get a chance.
Love the thinking, the value and open approach. Will enjoy hearing about your adventures with a MRC. I've found a club really helpful in giving fresh perspectives and ideas as well as sharing the pleasure of the hobby in person.
Thanks for this Mike. I am planning to do a simple, long, shelf style layout along one wall- station to fiddle yard in 00. This system will be perfect for that...
I use a similar system for my N gauge. I use half-unwound paper clips with a little hook at the end and put it in the hole next to the dimple. I hold it down with a piece of card glued either side of it. There's going to be a wall between the track and the other end of the paper clip. I call it the 'remote hand of god'.
I use Walthers code 83 turnouts , there is a hole at each side of the throw bar, just need a 90 degree bent in the piano wire, I don’t use Peco turnouts, but the idea is cool
Looks good Mike, but is there any chance you could add the product information to the video description, please? I'd like to try this on a shunting layout I'm making, but I'm not having much luck finding slaters rods which are actually tubes.
Sorry, I bought the slaters tube from Kernow models, it has no packaging etc, so can't give product codes etc. The florist wire is as the packaging I showed and came from hobby craft. Worth remembering that this will only do short straight runs
Just the vid I need for my floating shelf TTn42 Inglenook. Been trying to figure this out. Can Inglenooks use automatic decouplers? Where would they be placed?
Hi, This could be very useful as I have just used a wire system made out of what was in the house so Mains cable, tap washers, washers and a hot glue gun with some bought in knobs £1 each as on the 8ftx1ft 6in end to end I am building wanted it to be simple unlike my iTrains controlled layout in the loft so if you had uploaded this before mine which went live in the last week it could have helped me however your system is straight can it be bent and still work as on mine which is installed under the baseboard does need to. But well done for showing this and if anyone wishes to do the same and does not have spare mains cable your parts and method would help. Cheers Robert.
Hi, I would think it could be bent using a more flexible tube, the length of the wire might be an issue. I did make long bendy runs on another layout using 3d printer tube and filament
@@BudgetModelRailways Hi thanks for the reply if you look at what I have done a bendy run is easy to do and I have with my run around points changed both with one wire pull push. Cheers Robert.
Any chance you could check your emails. I've order a double controller box 1st March and no word about it getting sent or any contract just pending on your website
Sorry, we usually quote 28 days delivery but have had a sudden huge influx which has pushed things back. It will arrive we have the order but will be delayed sorry
It's difficult to give exact delivery as each order is unique and takes a different time to print, we will get it too you as soon as possible, or can refund if you would prefer. Probably another week to ten days
Why not use RC pushrods. They have wire and tube all as a set. Just need to cut to length, they're designed to work as a set, no trying to match the tube with the wire.
the plastic tubes can be bought from most model shops, even brass ones along with lengths of stiff wire, tell them what you want them for and they will help you choose the right ones.
