Recording MIG to accurately depict what the Welder sees is difficult but you've done as good a job as I've seen anywhere on RU-vid. Recording TIG during a Direct Current Steel weld is much nicer to watch. You've done a great job learning these processes and that's not easy at 50+. Keep up the great work Mark!
The human eye (and brain ;-) just has quite some huge dynamic range. Much more than camera and screen can depict. If activate a strong additional illumination and spread the contrast more (gamma-correction) it might even closer depict what the welder experiences. Also gives a good Video: Hook up the welding trigger switch to a relay to active a strong halogen light-source ---> the welding videos will look even better.
I usually have issues with adhesion on 3d prints due to the relatively rough surface, which is why I prefer ABS as it is much easier to sand/file smooth if I need to use tape.
@@RotarySMPWith the printer being what it is, PLA remains your best option. Just don't use the prints in spaces where it can get warm, like a car. Or an airplane.
@@RotarySMP Either way, they tend to lose their mechanical integrity above 60°C already. That's about the only drawback of PLA. Modified PLA can be very robust otherwise, especially when you print with a large nozzle and a bit on the hot side.
Hi Alexander. I wanted to make sure it all works properly before making a mixer, but since I weld so little, and need to stay in practice with TIG, I am not sure how much I will MIG.
@@RotarySMP the small addition of CO2 to argon in MIG shielding mixtures is to "activate" the weld pool to give penetration. It is not surprising running 100% CO2 results in spatter central welds. Yes spatter not splatter. google the difference ;)
@@RotarySMP Anyway, pure CO2 produces more spatter. But for the small welds where 90% of the time is setup and making sure everything stays straight, I agree, TIG doesn't have much of a speed penalty. And with the new welder you can avoid the problems you had before, like always blowing a crater in your weld at the end.
Looks good. About the only way I can think to improve the image is a very bright flood light, to bring the rest of the image a little closer to the brightness of the arc.
I was hoping for a set up, where I dont need separate settings for the set, and the weld. It is a real PITA to play around with the camera, when you have the gloves and helmet on, and cables draped around you. But this still needs some tweaking, and I might try two custom set up's so I can just switch between the two with the C2 and C3 knob positions.
Mark, thanks for shot of the HPSOV/PRSOV, p/n 3215302. We designed and qualified this valve back in the early ‘90s for use on all three B777 engine variants. I can still remember very long hours performing analysis and many late nights conducting qualification testing. Hope it is still performing well. 👍😎👍
Yep Mark, everyone on our team that developed this bleed air equipment for the B777 has since retired. Those were great days. We learned a ton. We learned to always be curious. Now with RU-vid I spend my time learning machining, welding, fabricating, casting, forging, 3D printing. Thanks for the weekly doses of inspiration. Your use of 3D printing in this episode was spot on 👍👍
Instead of a auto lens you could try a solid filter from Phillips-Safety, they are expensive but ive found, for eye balls atleast, that they are super consistent and give better clarity. they would probably help you with your own welding too. it just means that you are going to have to frame the shot and then mount the filter lense.
I'm not convinced you really can tune 3d printed holes coming out undersized. Like it's just the result of the concave and enclosed plastic features shrinking as they cool. Any kind of software solution would probably have to be in the clever simulation realm and add alot of time to the slicing... but it's not too much of a hassle to just to manually add a percentage to the hole diameters in CAD, estimated through intuition and gumption, and manually clean up the ones you got slightly wrong.
@@RotarySMP I have a vague memory of using pure argon on my MIG when I ran out of mix. Sadly I don't recall the results. Looking forward to the T-ing the bottles together hack.
nice job. I find welding very similar to marksmanship, as far as learning and maintaining the skill. For me, after getting the basics down, it's really about living in the moment, concentrating on breathing, and enjoying the experience. I find it very calming, so I agree with your music choice during the welding montages. You know there is the physical effort required to keep a steady sight picture and just the repetition of keeping everything lined up and moving along. Happy Sunday and Enjoy the journey! Thx for posting the great videos! Remember to breath!
Jeez, I wish my eyes could see the weld puddle as well as the camera can. Then maybe my welds would looks less like a blind monkey on a merry-go-round was holding the gun.
That really does work well! Spent all day Friday welding up my leaky woodburner, and managed to use nearly all my gas up! My local calor depot keeps mig mix in stock and It gets delivered to my door for £30 a bottle! Keep up the good videos! Phil, UK
@@RotarySMP good grief! I don’t have bottle rental now because of that! I used to have a BOC account for many years, but changed to AP when BOC became ludicrously expensive. I paid a one time deposit on my mig gas bottle which is a small commercial size, and my argon is from a rental free company in Liverpool although i may be changing that to hobbygas as they have a local depot . Tig was £200 deposit and £60 a bottle for gas but it is twice the size of the mig bottle
or just a few slices of a tin can, or drink can as shims to keep it in place... or with a heat gun, melt a few drops of wax or plastic and drop in a ready made seal.
The camera will correct the sensitivity to what it sees to an average of 18% gray (even with the filter). When you have a small bright spot surrounded with a large dark area, everything will be 'made' lighter. Dark area become gray, the bright spot much too bright (overexposed). Because the camera average the lighting. (Opposite: a small black object on a bright white surface: the camera will underexpose it. No detail of the black object is visible anymore and the white surface becomes grayer.) Use a manual setting instead of automatic, tune the balance and you will notice the difference. Good luck!, Greetings
I used to shoot everything manual with the G81, but since I got the GH5S i typically shoot manual, with auto-ISO. However yesterday i set up two custom profiles with full manual, white balanced with the filter for showing the part, and stopped down to the arc.
At 8:50, if the MIG wire touches the puddle, isn't that called "Short Circuit MIG"? Shouldn't you limit SC-MIG to thin sheet metal and the like? Can you turn up your voltage for your heavier plate welding projects? Thanks for this video and project idea!
It is interesting that you have this splattery mess of mig. I also use mig with only with Co2, the difference is that I use a big bottle and my welds aro not nearly as splattery. Cheers from Austia-Koroška slovenia
@RotarySMP Yes, no problem. I use Co2 because it is the cheapest option.... ever that is relatively expensive at 55 Euro refill. I dont have the guts to ask whats the price on the mixed gas lol 😆
Hi Michel. I think the modern ones are much more reliable, and auto sort themselves out. This is an old home built machine, and is a bit of an unreliable diva. :)
Great outcome! Funny that I've never considered using tie-wraps for retention like that, and it's a nice quick and easy solution. Way easier than the snap features I've been experimenting with recently, so definitely think I'll be using that in future 3d prints.
Insulating tape works fine for temporary solutions but in mid range it turns one of the following: simple plastic tape which peels off, sticky ectoplasm makes everything nasty what touches. However I got the joke.😊
@@RotarySMP Will do. I’m finishing up re-bearing-ing (😄) my beautiful, recently acquired Clausing drill press. Since I can’t get a Viennese one like yours, this’ll have to do.
Thanks for checking that. Wierd, I just retried it, and they work for me. Wonder if there is a cookie set here? I just regenerated the affiliate link and got the same link again. I will contact Arc Captain and ask for advice.
Funny that Arccaptain should be promoting their products in the EU when they don't have any local sales partners. And even if they did, we UK punters would get further crucified due to our dumb, self-inflicted Brexit idiocy. Importing from the US would surely result in zero warranty. Hopefully they are working on EU / UK sales channels.
Yeah, they have an EU warehouse. I am setting up a giveaway on a future video, and they wont be able to do free shipping to the UK, I suspect for the reasons you identify.
nicw job on the side project! love seeing what your up to now and again! keep it up! also, your ark captain affiliate i think is cool bc they say your honest reveiw and liked it, and so did i
It looks like theres controls for sensitivity and delay on the auto darkening lens. Try lowering the sensitivity and increasing the delay and see if that helps.
@@JanneRanta That is how I mostly use it. The range in brightness between set and weld is so extreme, that you need more stops than is easily achieved.
The plastic is not just cheap plastic, it should be made of LEXAN, and Lexan will filter ultra-violet rays due to its inherent chemistry. You could still add a second lens cover solution, and even a filter gel, and a polarizer as well to the stack up. Now we need a new 3DP frame to hold a 5pc stack up and still align with the cable ties!
it might sound silly but when you're filming the welding could you try adding more lighting (like excessive light levels) so the difference between arc on and off are closer, to make the contrast even out a bit.
@@RotarySMP i don't think it will be an actual problem, but we will see. You could also just give it a coat of clearcoat but honestly i would be more intrested to see if it even becomes a problem, so maybe try it wothout first.
@@Hilmi12 Yeah, for random non-cartesian holes, I have also done the flatbad scan with a copier at work. But this welding lens was a simple rectangle box.
@@RotarySMP I am sorry, that probably sounded different to how I meant it.. Occurrence right ? As if it never happened to me ^^ .. if only anyone had it in the right moment.
@@RotarySMP Sure thing. Good vid as always, thank you. Your 3D printing matches my experience exactly. I produce a 'perfect' CAD first time, then realise that stuff doesn't line up. I then go through two or three iterations before getting a reasonable result. I'm punching the air on those odd occasions when it works first time.
@@GeoffTV2 In some ways 3D printing makes me even lazier. I sort of accept there will be multiple iterations, and dont try hard enough to get it right first time :)