I've done the same. It's a better option to be honest especially when the battery pack is 48V. There are no tiny buck converters which can handle an input voltage of almost 60V
Are saying you got the distributor to send a notification to the cerbo telling you when a fuse is blown or not, on the app, without using the lynx shunt or bms?
I gotta tell ya, man…. You’re like the unsung hero on this topic. Great information on all your videos and great explanations. Please keep ‘em coming!!
I followed your instructions and it worked well. For anyone who tries to do this, I’ll offer that this did test my crimping skills with very small wires. It took me seven tries to get good crimps on the butt splice connectors, and I wasted a few in the process.I also found the ring terminals did not reach positive and negative post after I was done. I had to extend one of them a few inches with a new butt splice connector in order to get them to reach.
You know, I've been impressed with you guys since day one. BUT now I think you're GODS! I wired this thing up for my Lynx, and OMG! It about drove me crazy trying to connect those itty, bitty, teeny, tiny wires together! I would GLADLY buy one from you guys in the future! Thank you for this video. I feel way better now that I can see these lights working!
Another option is if you have a Cerbo GX, you can crimp on an RJ10 4-pin connector to a USB cable. Plug the USB cable into the Cerbo GX and use the 5 VDC from the USB to power the Lynx.
Thanks for showing how to do this. I agree - if you were to put some of these together you could easily charge $20+ for those of us who don't have the smaller bits (and time) to do it ourselves. I'd buy one!
I used a different converter that has a metal heat sink to dissipate any heat created by the conversion of 12V to 5V. It won't fit inside the Lynx Distributor but will be easily mounted outside. Also, I hooked up my data/power cable to the port on the right side of the Lynx and it worked, so that would shorten your wires if you want to fit one that will go inside without possibly blocking the LEDs or light tubes that bring the light up to the front of the case. Nice hack to get the lights working.
Thanks For this idea and the tutorial! +48 and ground connections are readily available on the circuit board, soldering is much simpler then adding lugs and bolting M8s.
I’m so glad I found your channel. I will be building out an ambulance I just bought and will use your info to help guide me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Great video, watched this video after I'd already purchased mine not realising the lights would not work so this vid was a bit of a game changer. However my Lynx is part of a home ESS with a Multi Plus II , a Colour GX and a 48V battery system so stepping down from 52V to 5 was a bit more problematic. I then remembered there are a couple of USB ports on the back of the Colour GX. I used one of these to measure AC solar generation via a ET112, but the other was free... What's USB power... 5V, just what was needed. So with the great info in this video, I've powered my Lynx via a USB cable plugged into the back of the GX. Lights on, all is good :D. Thank you
This is great! I took the black and yellow (phone) wires and connected to a USB wire black to black and red to yellow. I plugged it into a USB port. It works! Thanks Nate!
Thank you Nate, ordered today off my lap top. I have been saying to my wife how do we "like' his videos for a couple of years.. I usally watch on a big screen and just learned that those three dots bring up the subscription and like buttons. sorry for all those missed likes
OUTSTANDING, NATE! Works like a champ. Full disclosure, I messed up the first time and ended up with wires too short to reach the bus bars. Thankfully, there were four 12v to 5v converters in the package so I was able to correct my mistake on the second try (after a trip to Home Depot for more butt splice connectors). So thankful for your content! Keep up the great work.
Great videos and a great hack. Thank you a bunch. As I was looking at the circuit board I couldn't help wondering why Victron didn't add this to the board. I have to believe that it would be little or no cost difference. if it needed to be eliminated when pared with other components, it could be isolated with a small swich.
Thanks for tip! The one thing I would add is EN0508 wire copper crimp ferrules on those tiny multi strand wires. So much easier to work with. I have a number of complaints about Victron, the fact that we are pushed into buying the other components instead of getting one of these jumper wires is an example. No instructions, fuses poorly marked, no wiring diagram. If it weren't for you, I'd be lost.
your wire strippers remind me of some sort of alien movie... It's hard for me to really communicate to you the value I am getting from all of your videos. Thank you, brother.
Your hack worked great! The only thing I did different was to add 2" extensions to the ring side. I also came to the same conclusion that it was better to buy the lynx distributor, even at the same price its cleaner.
Thanks for sharing! Mine works great too. I ended up crimping an RJ9 (4P4C) connector to the power wires of a USB cable, and plugged it in to a name-brand 12v to USB socket adapter. I'm sure it's the same internal components but this made me feel better about reliability. Also saw that the pinout is specified in the Lynx manual, good on you Victron! I only recently joined the ecosystem and they continue to impress.
Thanks Nate! Hack worked great. Nice to see the Lynx light up. I used the port on the right side of the Lynx and it worked as well. I also just stripped off the red plastic connector that came with the step down convertor unit using the crimped connectors already on the wires to fit inside the ring connectors and then crimped. Gave me just a little extra length to reach the pos and neg terminals on the Lynx. Appreciate all the help you gave me with my system.
Thank you for sharing that information, since unless you using Victron Batteries and a Victron BMS they are not functional. To bad somebody doesn't make those. Randy
Great information! I have learned a lot and can’t wait to put together my new system that will replace a Renogy Dual Input charger. This video along with some others of yours convinced me the Lynx Power In and Distributor will give me the performance and look I want as well as reliability and safety.
Yeah... Victron didn't anticipate this unit being as popular as it is as a standalone unit and didn't see it being purchased without the Lynx Shunt or BMS.
Thank you Nate, love your videos. Question about lynx led light hack? If you have two Lynx connected, do you have to make two 12v to 5v wires or can you simply plug the OEM wire in from the first to the second?
@EXPLORISTlife - my question also as I'm about to do this, and have a second Lynx Distributor. It's hard reading through the comments to see if it's been answered! :-) Thanks for all your hard work....
Dude! Nate! That is excellent! I was just working on connections on our Lynx and thought “it would be cool to figure out a way around getting these lights to function...” then your video showed up! Why do you think Victron wouldn’t just make those lights work without having to wire them or buy more components? Thanks for another excellent video! - Brian + Erin
Saving a few pennies. It just needs 5v power so they didn't add a DC-DC converter (to be fair, theirs would have to be 12-48v input so maybe a dollar extra cost).
just in case someone needs this: That is an RJ-9 connector/plug ("phone" connector) the RJ-11 is the ethernet network one (like your internet router uses)
Great video. Been watching your videos to learn how to DIY the auxiliary electric on my conversion off grid van. Question: will the lights work on the Lynx Distributor with a Victron Smart Shunt 500 amp (Bluetooth)?
Good information. Thank you. You mention tying in a second Lynx distributor. I'm assuming that you would need to use this hack on the second unit also??
Hi Nate. I did this almost three years ago and just noticed that one of the four fuse lights (the left most one) is glowing dimly red. The fuse is fine, and I even tried replacing it just in case. The light goes to full brightness when I remove the fuse, so the overall function still works - it’s just annoying to have the dim red light on. I’m assuming a component on the little circuit board went bad, but let me know if you have other ideas about what else might cause this. Thanks again for all your videos!
I've done the hack successfully after following your guide but have now added a second lynx distributor. Can I daisy chain another RJ10 cable or do both need the hack?
Thank you!!! As stupid as this sounds... this bothered me! I paid a lot of money for that thing and I thought they'd work..... Glad you had the work around.
Thanks Nate! If you have a USB port in your system I assume you can power the Lynx distributor from that port instead of buying a 12/24v to 5V converter?
Very interesting video! This Victron Lynx product is great for future expandability. I've already got two Victron products attached to my Sprinter battery directly - the cable for my Victron IP65 BlueSmart charger, and my Victron Orion. I'm thinking I can disconnect those both, install a Lynx, then attach the Lynx directly to my battery. The Orion and the BlueSmart can then attach to the Lynx. If I wanted to ever get a 12v Inverter or other 12V products, I can then just add them to the Lynx! (Am I correct in this thinking?) Thanks Nate!!👍
Hi Nate. Great instruction as usual. Do you offer this as an assembled part on your website? I checked and did not find it. Link if you have it please? Thanks!
Nope. Was going to be too expensive per part to have made for the store. Didn't figure enough people would want to pay the $30+ it was going to cost to be worth our time/effort/parts.
I am helping my friend build his solar array on his travel trailer and he wanted to do this hack and it worked very well. Thank you for the detailed explanation of it. Also I was wondering if you feel safe for a Victron 100/50 having 800 watts of solar. 200watt x 4 panels which is 81.4 volts and 9.8 amps instead of the max watts listed on the website of 700 watts. When adding the amps and watts up do you divide it by 12 or the max charging volt of 14.6. If I take 800 watts and divide by 12 v then I get 67 amps which I think it would be too much for the controller but if I do the same with 800 watts divided by 14.6 volts, which is the max charging then it becomes 55 amps which I would think it would be acceptable. What are your thoughts on it?
Perfect timing for me also Nate! I'm having a hard time finding the inline converter. Can you shoot me a link? Maybe also for the solder version of the butt connectors? Thx for all you do for us.
Thank you for all the great information! Please, Please, offer these as a product on your website. I would love to have one of these made for me rather than DIY. Any chance I can buy one from you? Cheers!
This is great! I've ordered the 12v to 5v converters. I tried finding a similarly small 48v to 5v converter but didn't have a whole lot of luck. I'll just go with a 48v to 12v converter externally and then will connect the one you linked to in order to give me the 5v that I need. Do you have a link to the wire strippers that you're using? They look a bit nicer than the ones I'm using.
I've got a link to all of the tools I use here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KGDMaoe63zk.html I would investigate using a usb outlet instead, spliced and wired similar to how I showed in this video as a USB operates at 5V.
Just done this as i also have no green light But after doing the same as you still no power light. I do have 2 small dip switches on that board I says 1 and 2 They were both set down I presume off Tried in on position Still no power light This buck was tested and giving out 5 volts Any advise. Cheers Graham
You 'should' be able to just connect the other data ports together once the first one has power. I haven't tried this personally, though, but knowing what I know about how it works... I suspect this should be the case.
The device says 24v but since 24v ends up being usually higher than actual 24v...I don't suppose this would work with a 24v system? If not, is there something similar for the step down converter chip?
The link above to the converter is not the converter as shown in the video. I found the one shown in the video BUT the cables are much shorter than what is the length on the video.
Hi Nate, awesome video sir, question, I have a 48 volt setup, where can I find a 48 volt to 5 volt converter that same or close to that size that will fit inside the distributor for my system? I assume the converter will need to have a variable voltage input as well, since the system will see pass 50 volts. Thanks.
I would suggest a 1a or 100ma fuse, in between 12v and the 12/5v converter. If it ever shortcuts than you have 2 wires between 2 high amp 12/24/48 busbars.
Feel free to do whatever you like, it's not necessary though since it's less than 7" AND the wires are completely contained within the component. Much like how the positive wire from the positive busbar to the PCB board doesn't have a fuse.
I'll just to make a USB to RJ-11 cable when I get mine. Fairly certain my loads will be 48V through the Victron, so the DC-DC converter would be out of spec.
Nate, can you please tell me, if I have a Victron Smart IP 22 charger, dedicated to my solar system, should I connect it straight to the Lynx Distributor along with the charge controllers? Thanks for your time. Cheers David from Canberra.
I have a question sir! I am upgrading my 6-6V batteries to 5 Renogy Lithiums. Since I am going to wire them in Parallel with only 1 battery run to the Lynx, would you chose to use the "Power-in" or get the Distribution? I dont mind paying the extra. I already have a Victron BMV-712 monitor so no need for the monitoring. I am powering a travel trainers 12V system and I have a 3000 watt Renogy pure sine inverter. Thanks so much for these videos!! I attempted to go to your private group but it went to a dead end. Also the link for the converter is showing it is a 6-24V to 5V 1.5A Step-Down Regulator Module. Is this the correct one?
Hi Nate, keep meaning to ask what software do you use for designing your wiring layout, with the Victron icons etc? I bought one of your layouts and its inspired me to do my own!
I worry a bit about wiring an unfused circuit across the main bus bars. If this little voltage converter failed shorted, I guess the small gauge wire would act as a fuse but in a very uncontrolled way. Seems risky to me.
Now what about the 48 volt systems ? is there a step down converter for 48 to 5 volt ? and what about the amperage draw from the step down converter , Is it much for 48 to 5 volt ? I am just trying to see if this is even worth doing on my system . I don't really need lights to tell me a fuse is blown , that's easy enough to figure out quickly .
DC to DC buck converter 60v is what you would have to look for they range from about $9 to $30. But to be honest the safest thing to do would be to get a 48v to 12v and then do the same thing he's doing here you could always use a 12-volt for some LED lights
