In this video we show how to make a custom trim/tilt harness with relays for any outboard. Enjoy! RELAY P/N : Napa - AR272 ------------------------------------ Merch : www.bit.ly/buschfishin -------------------------------------
Great video. Thank you for taking the time to make it. This allowed me to fix a tilt-trim that had not worked for years at my local sailing club. I’m now as hero over there!
Nice ... well done ... i am not a expert but you explains so clearly ... so if you don't understand you don't really want to understand ... thank you .... i am in south africa and have same motors you explain so nicely my friend ... keep well 👍👍👍
GREAT video and well explained! Even the part where there was the mistake with the 85 wires. A closer look at the wiring diagram would be nice for those who are not as tech savy as others just to help them along, but this was a great video. Just an FYI though, if you don't have wire crimpers, if you look at the inside of the needle nose pliers that you were using, the opposite side of the rivot of the needle nose you will notice a place where the handles comes together and there are some groves in there. That will work much better with way more force with less effort than using the needle end close to the cutter. Just to let you know. Keep up the great videos!!
Just watched your video and it makes total sense and thank you so much for explaining it for wiring dumbies like me. I am going out now to wire my boat.See what happens thanks again
Great video my question is if I already have an existing trim switch and power trim relay on my Honda 9.9 and I just want to add an additional switch at the stern can I just splice the new trim switch into the existing trim switch wires and avoid any new relays. Thanks
to add an additional switch all you would have to do is find the 3 wires coming from the controls and splice them into a second switch at the stern, you will just have to make sure the feed wire goes into the center position and up is up and down is down, hope this helps!
easiest way to find out would be to take a multimeter and check continuity from ground to the center wire on the switch - if you have some it’s ground if not it’s power. you could also just check for power on that wire or the others while pressing it
I have a 3 wire tilt and trim. 1 blue, 1 green and 1 black. Do I still build it the same way and just leave the black open or is there something else needs to be done to the black wire?
I do not have a video on it but essentially you are just daisy-chaining into the three wires from the three position switch. So basically just splice in a wire from each of the three wires going to the switch and add another one exactly the same.
I've got 3 wires coming from my trim pump. Green, blue and black. I wired as you described. I did not use the black wire from the pump. My relays click, but the pump is not being activated. I know for sure that the pump works. Should I use the black wire as a ground to the switch or battery
is this on an evinrude or outboard? most likely the black is a ground but on something like a stern drive application the green and blue are never ground, they are just powers because the black will be a constant ground for both sides. A way to test would be to ground the black wires and give 12v to the green or blue. If it works then you don’t really need the relays, just a 3 way switch.
battery ground goes from the battery/block ground to the center of a 3 position switch, when it’s flipped a direction it then connects that block/battery ground to the relay to close the magnetic field allowing the switch in the relay to close thus allowing power to be supplied to whichever wire is selected - hope this helps!
I have a 78 mercury, the trim is no longer working from the control box. Do you not need a solenoid for this wiring system like how my tilt pump has two at the top of it?
Ok I had the black wire that runs to my trim unit motor (10ga), the black wire from the switch (14ga) and the black wire (14ga) that butt connects to the two black wires (14ga) going into the relays all on the same eyelet connector for the battery. As soon as I connected the positive the black 14ga wire that runs between the eyelet terminal and the butt connector for the two relay wires went up in smoke and melted the insulation and loom. Do I just need a heavier gauge or did I wire something wrong?
The center wire for the switch can either be tied into one of the constant ground wires or just come from a ground that’s on the same battery circuit. The switch is controlling a ground so when it’s flipped one direction, it connects the ground from the battery to the ground side of the trigger circuit on the relay. Since the other side has constant power this will allow the relay to close and supply power to either the “up” (blue wire) or “down” (green wire). Hope this helps!
What do I do if my motor has 3 wires going to it? Blue. Green. And black. Older evinrude that has never had a relay system. It was born that way from the factory and Ranger.
You said the middle switch terminal is to ground...and you said to battery..nothing in your drawing of that to the switch....do i need to run an extra wire from battery ground to the swich..?
When I turn the ignition on on my Evinrude and up my trim it dies not stop going up . Without the iginition on it work normal . Another problem , when I give the engine throttle the trim goes up and will not stop .driving me crazy .
Most likely inside the controls two wires (most likely ignition - purple or 12v - red) are broken or have the insulation ripped off and they are touching the wires from the trim switch in the handle. This would make sense for ignition giving the up wire 12v and moving the handle making wires touch. Best way to find out would be to take the controls apart!
The issue is off of the trim pump the two sides are alternating power and ground in order to make it go up or down. I suppose it would be possible to have a switch going to both wires where it rests on ground, perhaps a three position that sits on ground to both sides and when you flip one switch it powers one side?
assuming the length of the wire is going to be most likely short or under 10ft and it is 12 gauge wire, a 20 amp fuse should be good and more than enough so you never have any issues blowing fuses or melting wires
Check the output wiring for 12v, meaning the two wires going to the trim pump. IF you’re not seeing any voltage there check the voltage at pin 30 which is the feed 12v to the relay, the “main” power feed which should be 12v. If you do check that the other relay is resting on ground by putting the multimeter in ohms and connect one end to the “resting” pin and the other on battery/engine ground. It’s gotta be one of the two if they’re clicking. The clicking means that your triggers are working.
Did trim tilt work before hand And why did u do this did the original yamaha relay go out ? Dealing with same in 70hp Yamaha What did ya find out Thanks
In this application I didn’t use any OEM switch I just used a basic 3 position switch from fleet farm but I would recommend putting your model number into marineengine.com and clicking on the controls parts diagram, it will give you the OEM and aftermarket parts diagrams!
Man, that was cool. I bought a 1978 stinger 75. Lots of stuff was missing. Someone saw fit to sever and remove about 4ft of the 8 strand control loom. All that is there for the trim motor, are the blue and green wires, and from the trim switch, and 1 blue 1 green, and 1 brown going to 1 end of a connector. No signs of relays anywhere. You gave me the solution. Thank you, and best wishes to you and all your viewers from Brisbane Queensland Australia 🇦🇺 💙🇺🇸👍☮️
Verify power to the relay and on the side you want when pressing the switch and also ground on the opposite side, check for power from the switch to the relay and ground at the switch.
this motor came with a trim pump but no wiring for anything so I made it from scratch - this would most likely be for an aftermarket trim install but it would also work for two wire jack plates.
@@buschfishin ahh I Gotya I think I may use an extra jack plate harness I have which is same as this or make one for my trim pump on 70 Yamaha instead of buying almost 200 dollar Yamaha relay I need
WAIT a sec.....you changed colors ??? Green is down Blue is up.....why you using BROWN....then you say...ooopsie....grrrr Good video, i'll give this a try as there is really no other option out there. It's good folk like you do these vids.
okay so where i messed up was when i took both 85 pins and tied them together to ground but i cut that out, 85 goes up to the switch and then there’s a ground from the battery to the center of the switch. from the battery i have the power wire daisy chained so it comes from the battery and splits off to go to each relay. you can run each power separate to the battery terminal if you’d like, it would probably be better that way to have your supply power to the trim motor be separate and a smaller gauge wire (bigger). the switch is a ground switch not a power switch
if it blows as soon as it’s connected to power it’s a short or connected to a ground after the relay, if it blows when the trim unit is moving it could be that the wire is too small or fuse too small. I would double check the wiring diagram and make sure everything is hooked up properly
It blows soon as you plug it in wires started smoking and killed power on everything I think it's a short. But bass boat has 3 switches. Thanks for your reply
i noticed this at the end, the two wires left with no connection go to the two wires coming off of the trim pump. off of the actual trim motor there should be just a blue and geeen wire, neither is power or ground they actually alternate so when say blue is power green is ground and it trims up, vice versa for the other side
