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- Steps
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Order Work
1 Pre-wash the fabric.
- Fill a tub with water and immerse the folded fabric in a zigzag pattern.
- Remove from the water and hang to dry.
- While still slightly damp, iron and store.
2 Print the pattern.
3 Tape the pattern pieces together along the seam lines.
Cut out the pattern along the seam allowance lines.
4 Secure the pattern to the fabric with pins.
Note: Attach the pattern on the back side of the fabric.
5 Cut the fabric along the outer seam line (dotted line).
Note: Leave a 3mm notch at the collar shoulder space of the body.
6 - The 'sleeve patch' part of the body is used if the sleeve width is not sufficient for the fabric width.
- The 'body sleeve attachment patch' part of the body and Okumi is used if the shoulder width of the body is not sufficient for the fabric width.
Areas with zigzag seam allowances are to be processed with a zigzag stitch or an overlock machine.
Sew together with a straight stitch on the sewing machine, with a stitch length of about 2.5mm.
After sewing together, open and press with an iron.
Remove the 'patch' pattern paper after finishing.
7 Apply a zigzag stitch or overlock machine to the following parts:
- Left and right sides of the body: sleeve attachment, side seams, Okumi attachment
- Left and right Okumi: Okumi attachment
- Left and right sleeves: under the sleeve hem, under the sleeve, sleeve attachment, and under the sleeve attachment for men's Under-sleeve-attachment
8 Press with an iron in a triple fold for the following parts:
- Left and right sides of the body: hem, Miyatsu-guchi for women
- Left and right Okumi: hem, Erishita(below the collar)
- Left and right sleeves: sleeve hem, Furi for women
9 Press the seam allowances and the center crease of the ground collar and the overlay collar with an iron.
※ 'Ground collar patch' is sewn together without folding the seam allowances of the different fabric/same fabric.
10 For the fabric of a kimono (tanmono), place the right and left panels face-to-face and sew along the center of the back.
For Western-style fabric, fold the back panel at the center back and sew along the fold (pinch seam).
11 Align the heights of the following parts on both sides:
- The sleeve line of the sleeve
- The shoulder line of the body
Then, overlay the following parts inside out:
- The sleeve attachment
- The body's sleeve attachment
and sew them together.
12 Open the sleeve and fold it inside out at the shoulder line and sleeve line.
Roll up the Sleeve Attachment Stop to avoid overlap.
Align the front and back side positions, and secure with pins.
Overlay the left and right front and back bodies' sides inside out and sew together.
13 Overlay and sew together the following parts inside out on both sides:
- The body's Okumi attachment
- The Okumi's Okumi attachment.
14 Sew together the following parts of both sleeves:
- Under the cuff
- Under the sleeve
- Under the sleeve attachment for men's.
15 After removing the pattern paper from the parts with a triple-fold crease, sew the triple fold for the following parts:
- Okumi: Eri-shita (below the collar), hem
- Body: hem, Miyatsu-guchi for women
- Sleeves: cuff, Furi for women.
16 Remove all the pattern papers from the body, Okumi, and sleeves.
Turn the body, which was inside out, right side out.
17 Align
- the inner/outer sides
- the center back
- the narrower/wider sides
of the ground collar and the overlay collar, and secure the center back with pins.
Remember which side of the pattern paper marked 'Sew to the front side of the body first' (the narrower side) before removing the pattern papers from the ground collar and the overlay collar.
18 Spread out the body's collar attachment and collar shoulder space, placing them in a straight line.
Overlap the narrower side of the collar, inside out, with the collar attachment on the front side of the body and Okumi.
At this time, align the center back of the body with the center back of the collar.
Secure the seam allowances together with pins.
19 Sew together the narrower side of the collar with the collar attachment of the body and Okumi.
The stitch length is 2.5mm around the collar shoulder space and 5mm for the rest.
20 Fold the ground collar and the overlay collar as creased, tuck the edge of the ground collar inward, and temporarily secure it with pins.
Sew the other side of the collar from the front side of the body. Use a straight stitch on the sewing machine (it's okay if it's blind stitch).
The stitch length is 2.5mm around the collar shoulder space and 5mm for the rest.
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9 мар 2024
