Shoreline Marine presents "Captain Weekend", Loye Futch, a 25 year veteran of the marine industry and professional boat mechanic, who will demonstrate how to make watertight electric connections.
Love the fact that you sealed heat shrink connector after crimping it with traditional crimpers. Anchor makes a great set of crimpers specifically for the heat shrink style connectors. Not an expensive tool at all and it works very well. I've never damaged any of the insulation while using them. Great video sir.
Heat shrink isn't intended to waterproof. The glue doesn't provide a watertight seal. Even with zero abrasion from the crimpers, you should expect to use some sealant to ensure a watertight connection.
Ive used them same connectors on hgvs for years, they are very good and only fail if some uses the wrong tool to crimp them and cuts into the heatshrink itself. Best thing about them is you can see if any corrosion is taking place though the heatshrink, making diagnostics much faster.
i like to use the ancor epoxy filled heat shrink tubing.on top of what loye does here just adds some extra protection and gives extra support to the connections in case they get tugged.
When I was doing electronics and electrical in the Navy we were not allowed to use crimp connectors. Everything was soldered or terminal and block connections and then liquid tape and then cover with tape to make sure it was sealed.
The weakness of soldering is two fold. One, solder melts at low temps, and when a wire begins to overheat, it can fail. That leads to a wire with no mechanical connection, which causes arcing and resistance and more heat. Second, solder turns the stranded wire into solid wire, filling all the gaps, which leads to a brittle spot.
Wouldn't it also help to add some Polyolefin heat shrink tubing on top of that liquid electrical tape (while it's still wet) just to further protect it from H2O ingress?
The only crimp splices to even consider in any mobile application are bare, brazed seams and with internal serrations covered by a quality adhesive shrink tube.
I just like to add a de-ox or similar inhibitor to the wire ends prior to inserting to the connectors.Also poor quality crimpers often crimp poorly and it's good to know if a smash or dimple crimp is needed.Thx
How does that Liquid Tape hold up to heat? I am replacing the ignition coils on my car and the new coils and the old connections, while they do fit, do not click into place. When I pulled out the old coils, the coil and the connection had a thin, rubber membrane covering the connection, keeping it from separating. I was hoping to recreate this membrane with the Liquid Tape, but not sure if it can take the heat coming off the intake manifold of a car. The old membrane material did, but not sure exactly what that was made of. Thanks for your help!
Good video, but using the wrong crimp tool (automotive), which can damage the connector potentially making it vulnerable to a leak. Instead use a marine grade single ratchet style crimp tool designed specifically for heat shrink connectors.
Can't understand that won't this liquid get logged in between the flexible copper wire strands (imagine joining two 6mm copper wire ) thus caused the resistance to the flow of current?
Great tutorial, thank you. Question: I never worked with heat shrink connectors (or tubing) before and I don't have a heat gun. How powerful of a heat gun do I need? Would something like a 1200W Wagner work?
Well actually he is using, apparently, pre-tinned copper strand wire. You know, the good and slightly more expensive copper strand wire that comes pre-tinned each strand along its entire length. Great for anything, but typically called marine wire. Crimping to pretinned wire like this is ok, as long as the crimp hardware is not bare copper. Maybe he could mention he is using pretinned marine wire?
I have always soldered and used marine grade heat shrink, never trusted a crimp connection to be of quality unless the plastic was removed from the connector, then soldered and marine grade heat shrink used. I rather have the wire fail in any place than my own work to be the shortfall. Butt connectors always seemed to me along with scotch locks as a lazy way out from a good job. Could go as far as a heptane saturation before sealant or soldering but I digress.
Scotch locks are worse than lazy,they are criminally negligent. I'm glad you have the time to solder and shrink tube. I have found filling the connector with dielectric grease and a good solid crimp works very well in refuse truck shop applications. With the way a trash truck gets abused I rarely have the time to even think about "your" right way. Fine for production not for the real world. Sometimes you have to make reasonable compromises. Sometimes in the space available you can barely get in to do a crimp
+Cbmech It may take more time initially, but long term it saves alot more. Just my experience, and with knowing the refuse way, I found what actually works and provides assurance. It works.
+Allen Wrench Glad you think it's worth it but it is almost impossible to work on wiring through 4 inch holes when most of the time the wires aren't long enough to begin with and you want to strip twist solder and heat shrink? Like I said sometimes you make reasonable allowance and do the best you can. Silicone grease beats the hell out of scotchlocks /and I spent a day and a half taking scotchlocks out of a light bar. At one time some body builders were in love with the pieces of sh.
+Allen Wrench Glad you think it's worth it but it is almost impossible to work on wiring through 4 inch holes when most of the time the wires aren't long enough to begin with and you want to strip twist solder and heat shrink? Like I said sometimes you make reasonable allowance and do the best you can. Silicone grease beats the hell out of scotchlocks /and I spent a day and a half taking scotchlocks out of a light bar. At one time some body builders were in love with the pieces of sh.
Well hell I did not know that those tube connectors were shrink tubes too 🤔 and never heard of liquid ELECTRIC TAPE ! very 😎cool 👍 Now I can at least make it look professional even though I'm most definitely not a professional electrician!
Just what im looking for 😁👍.. Im actually looking for something that able to insulate around a wire without to remove the wire pin from the connector.. way too much job, .. not to mention on how hard it is to release the lock on the pin connector, especially when the connector get dirt, and then removing the pin from the connector head with a special needle key accroding to the connector head type just to release the pin lock n heat sink a single wire.. That why i hate so much the sleeve type of wire insulator.. but, aside from that nothing hate me more than the tape type of wire insulator.. every wires men know that
You cover the sealing fine. But why not solder instead of shit crimps? Soldering is a 100% bond, if done correctly. Crimping soft copper in a boat or 4x4 truck is a joke.
Crimping is the gold standard for boats due to vibrations which break solder, and solders tendency to melt when hot, leaving no mechanical connection behind.
GhillieLand I was thinking the same thing!! A good solder crimp would be a better connection?? I have had issues with solder-less crimps on my sump pump. I just wrapped the connection with electrical tape and then heat shrunk.
oh yes I guess my comment then get on her but I really like your program I've been down for a while my wife passed but I got to 7210 Evers Road Runner and I order new bars from person on the Mopar because he's about $50 cheaper and elastic energy when I plug that although I called Ron Francis and he couldn't have the wires for a month or two because he hasn't had a maiden ready to start on that so he called me call summit summit said yeah we have this so he sent me a universal thing and it's totally different over a hundred Waters and I appreciate your help
ABYC, the standard for boaters, recommends butt connectors as the better alternative to soldering. Soldering has several disadvantages, and definitely doesn't prevent corrosion.
My guess would be that the individual copper strands get really weak and can corrode all the way down the inside of the insulation. Vibration and movement can cause corroded wire to break. That ring connector won't break as easily and if it does, you can visually identify the problem.
The heat shrink connectors are waterproof. No need for that black shit. Problem is, most use the wrong crimpers (just like you) and they tear the connectors when crushing.
