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This is THE immaculate way to teach someone like me - we may not be full-time beginners, but we appreciate to learn, part for part and step by step so very consequently thoroughly, without omitting 'details' obvious to the professionals. THANK YOU!!
Hi. You are a teacher by nature.Thanks for your highly educational videos. I wonder if I can ask a question here. My Mayers sump pump,despite dischargeing water, used to trip fuse after a few seconds.When I pulled out the stator of this 1/2 HP 20 years old submersible, I found out that all insulation on the thermal sensor and its connections were dissolved in the dielectric oil, shorting it to the stator body and hence a short to the ground. The stator and rotor are in good shape otherwise. What do you recommend, can I just apply liquid tape on the sensor and put it back or cover it up with some heat shrink? Should this type of thermal protection sensors be in zero distance with the stator to work efficiently or they just sense the oil temperature? By the way I have replaced the pump and I am asking just for learning. My other question: could we use black heat shrink inside submersibles instead of these clear ones you use? I appreciate your comments in advance.
I wouldn't think the heat shrink matters if it is clear or black, the clear is nice because you can see what is happening, but in my non professional life, I use the black because it is easy to find. What will be important is not using normal heat shrink. You want the heat shrink with the glue inside. Harbor freight sells their marine grade heat shrink with this.
Good video, a few things first why didn't you slide the heat shrink on the motor side the wires were a lot longer and they would have been out of the way. also, should you splice the wires together before you screw the pump on the pipe going down in the well or after you screw the pump on? and last, what about testing the wire to make sure they are waterproof.
I may be fixing a pool light and removing the wire may be a real pain. Could I splice the new head unit to the old wire safely? I figure nowadays there has to be many ways of splicing wires underwater and this may be one of theme
aloha hey so why dont you show the replacement of the old power cord to a new longer power cord without splicing...? I have two sump pumps (little giants brand) and the power cord is too short for deep pools. 8 ft and deeper. So I could splice off the end of the cord and add more wire w a splice and wrap it like you do here and then wrap in electrical tape, but cant I just order a longer cord up to 100 feet and connect it in the pump housing like they do at the factory? mahalo and aloha for your reply and time.
I am curious, you made the video but I did not see what your qualifications are to undertake this work. I would have thought that you would have identified the voltage and current rating of the pump and cables. Kind of important. Are your connections within code for your local electrical authority. Why did you fail to then put a full waterproof heat shrink over the total connection and have the connections staggered as suggested by another poster. Just curious as water and electricity just dont like each other and this needs to be done right and legally.
Why Franklin Electric /R. C. Worst Co. *do NOT prefer Self fusing silicone rubber?? "for water proofing of cable joint( of extended motor cable - of submersible pump set) ". Please reply.
You know the make large heat shrink tubing that could be used to seal / connect the outer black casing as well after the inner splices are completed. Not sure why so much of the pump side inner wires are exposed.
Anyone watching thinking this is a done deal, theres another big black heat shrink that now goes over the lot. And.. stagger the connections, they could rub through and short each other like this. Thanks
I prefer to crimp, then solder. I just don't trust crimp connectors. I use an electric heat gun if there's power, otherwise a propane torch set really, really low. Having said this, I know plenty of well pump installers who have done it Chris's way thousands of times, without any problems. I guess it's hard to argue with success.
It's best to avoid turning over the torch (it should be upright) and the flame should be further from the wood to avoid a fire hazard. A heat gun is also much safer than a torch (no flame)
A heat gun is the proper way to heat shrink tubing. Not only is the torch a fire hazard but it is a burn hazard for you, the wire insulation, and the shrink tubing. If you burn through the insulation or shrink tubing you will have to cut the wires back and start again. A torch should only be used as a last resort.
Why can't you just solder the two wire ends together? Then installed the heat shrink over the solder joints. The shrink type that has the glue inside that run out when the heat shirk tape reach a certain temperature,
@@cali0559 it was a half joke. But you could test put the splice in a bucket of water and test the water for stray voltage. Pro tip. Try not to touch the water
This is not a good way to make a submersible splice. First you should cut the wires staggered, never use flame on heatshrink tubing but use heatgun, always wrap minimum three layers of self bonding tape over the splice with 50% surmount and finally slide a piece of heatshrink tube with internal glue.
Yeah there's no way I would feel good doing this in someone's home. Water and electricity is a good way to kill someone and you cant ever over do safety in this area.
You should be more gentle with the stranded wire when your stripping it. When you wrench it back and forth like you did it cuts strands and jeopardizes your connections.
Aside from the deficiencies in technique the title needs to be fixed. This is not how to splice underwater this is "how to splice for underwater service" (Note came via how to weld underwater)
