How to Make Your Own Touring Bike from an Old MTB! 

Thanks Joey! They are simple and so well rounded. New things are great but it’s not necessary to be able to enjoy being out and about. Btw, we see 29” &. 27,5 becoming more normal outside the western countries! Still best bet is 26 👌🏼

Square taper bottom brackets are still my preferred and most reliable way to set up a touring bicycle, even when considering building something from the frame up in 2024.

It is a great platform! Happy to hear you enjoy it too. Best wishes!

Thank you for sharing your story! I agree, there is something very special about those old MTB's. All the best!

26inch is excellent platform getting moving from a standstill is easier but keeping speed a 29inch will always keep speed better and go faster also 29inch will need less trueing over time. 26inch is a nice ride though so yeah definitely personal preference

@@morningbear3794 For the smaller frames, even the 27.5” have a bit too much toe overlap. My wife always struggled finding performance frames when the standard was 700c. She was overjoyed when a wide range of tires came out for 26”. She even raced criteriums on a light weight mtb frame converted to drop bars with Tom Ritchey slicks. So I’m disappointed that the tire selections for 26” are fading. The overlap issue is not always a problem except when going very slowly with loaded bikepacking gear. That’s when I find that little front wheel is much easier to control. So it is with a heavy heart I see the demise of the 559, my favorite wheel size ever.

@@twhis9843 I'm sure there's certain tire options from brands that will just go away, but there's still so many good choices overall in 26" that I don't see it as a problem. There's too many bikes that use 26" that I don't see the standard phasing out for wheels or tires. Ask me again in 30 years and I'll probably say it's still going strong. To me, a real challenge is something like sourcing a fractional tire size in a tread pattern or style you're looking for, and even then every few years one of the name brand companies will just do a run of some oddball size and it will appease those keeping vintage rides going. Thankfully Schwalbe is still making my favorite whitewall delta cruisers for my vintage Raleigh. I expect the currency debasement driven inflation crisis to precipitate hard times for all bike component manufacturers. We're just seeing too much of that unfortunately. Things will likely look very much different in the next five years in terms of what businesses are able to survive, and who knows what the trends will be for bikes themselves.. we might come back around to 26" as the hot thing again.

If speed is not your main concern then 26" truly is the best platform. There's tyres in all sizes available but as long as those aren't too heavy the difference in acceleration isn't that big. But with bigger tyres you can easily create comfort and security, if needed in difficult terrain you can always deflate them a little for more grip. That's more difficult with narrower 28" bikes.

@@dereinzigwahreRichi Yes. Larger tires give you those options. A 1960s Raleigh touring bicycle would run fractional 26 x 1-3/8 which is 34.925mm. 60 years later and most bicycles that people are running for touring tend to ideally be at least in the same 35mm width range or above. There is not a ton of pressure adjustment wiggle room at 35 when using for touring and you would preferably rely on a good tread pattern to take on gravel/dirt surfaces rather than lowering the pressure. That's why we go wider. More traction, more pressure control, and more overall weight support (though your frame and wheel selection impact this more), and hopefully to avoid dreaded pinch flats. I believe there is a bias against 26" regarding their speed based on the fact that modern mountain bikes from the 90s and onward were often 2" and up and they didn't always have the best tread pattern or material compounds. 26" can be fast with better tread and 1.5 to 1.75" sizing. But when it comes to loaded touring the recommendation is to size those tires up so we end up back again at 1.95 to 2.10" generally. Their strength over 700c is proven, but that could also be a bias towards the 26" because of its history in MTB use and the sort of overbuilding for the endurance of the hubs/rims since a well built 700c wheel that is built for touring should be nearly as reliable as the 26" with the slight advantages of rolling resistance for its tire size. That's why we don't use ultralight race wheels for touring and expect no downsides, lol. In the road/racing world, more modern consensus is that there's not much of a speed penalty for going wider (30mm to 35mm compared to 25 or 26mm) and more advantage for technical riding surfaces. Bikes in 650b and up have a tendency to go more narrow towards 40mm as these usually are bikes for gravel/randonneuring. Because modern MTB has gone to 28, we now have slight crossover with 700c and some are picking tires half way between road and MTB sizes, which means 38, 40, 45. Based on all of this, my rule of thumb currently is as follows... Based on what you typically ride unloaded: Touring baseline: Add 11mm to width of tire. Conditional: Heavy load +8mm Rough Offroad +5mm Paved only -6mm Try this out with your bike in a lean/commuter mode and see if the numbers add up for you to a good choice for touring. Let me know your wheel and tire sizes.

Nice! Best off luck with your build. Thanks & All the best!

Fantastic! Thanks for sharing! Best wishes and success with the brake upgrade!

Awesome 😎

Thanks! Me too... somewhere down the line!

Thanks 😊 All the best!

Thanks so much Prakash 🙏🏼 That is just wonderful to hear 😊 Best wishes from us 🍀

I do carry more than a tent up front and really like the packing convenience of panniers. A bit heavier but worth it for me!

Thank you Helen! We were not in Morocco when it happend. Wishing you all the best, E&M

Thanks Eric! Happy you like this style of video. Best wishes

Thanks so much and great to hear about your bike conversion! Nice that it is your favorite bike! I will tinker some more on mine in the future. Fancy bikes are nice but I think it’s great you can make a very well rounded touring bike in an affordable way. That way bicycle touring is available to more people. All the best!

I am very fond of the Ergon gips. If ESI falls my way I will give them a try.

Nice to hear that! Enjoy and best wishes! E&M

Nice!! Basic and affordable. To many more magnificent miles!!

Thank you Antonio 😊 All the Best, E&M

I agree with you upgrades. I believe that aluminium can be a great options too. The best tool is what you have available. If possible chromoly would have been my preferred choice and that is why my main bike is a steel one. Changing a headset is quite particular and can be too daunting for the starting bike mechanic. Yes, double walled rims are the better choice but a good set of standard wheels can take you far and are easily replaced by availability. All the best!

@@WheelstoWander Thanks for answear. I didn´t write clear, sorry. I only think, if You could, choose bike with a-head headsed, not to change. "if something work, don´t change it" I wish You a nice travels :-)

It does sound really tempting though 😅 But your right, it’s about the surroundings and people you meet out on tour. A nice ride is the enabler. A simple MTB or similar is all you need really. Everything from there on is a bonus! Best wishes!!

My bike shop boss( who had been a top quality racer in his younger years) said “you only feel the weight difference on the first couple of blocks of a test ride. Once you’re tired, every bike feels the same”

I have a Rohloff on my cargo bike and when you have a rear flat out in the elements you wish you had a derailer

Thanks so much 🙏🏼😊 Best wishes!!

Dat is geweldig te horen! Dank & Groet :)

True!

This is true, however, take a look at new or even newer USED bikes out there today. I work in a bike shop and an entry level new or used bike can easily cost you 1k just to get on it; not to mention the additional cost of racks, fenders, bags, lights etc. $400-500 is a steal nowadays! And as you stated, it makes a big difference learning to work on your own gear as you save a ton of money over time there as well!

Same here. I bought the same mtb. A Giant Boulder alu lite. Nice lightweight bike. But then… new tires. Tubus Tara Big Apple, new saddle and more. It’s fun but expensive. So…. Now I got the virus and bought another bike to ‘build up’.

I’m a plumber and every few months I have a few buckets of old copper and brass that I take to the metal recycling to cash in while I’m there I look through a huge pile of bikes and they want next to nothing for stripped parts , last time I was there I got a rear rack and a couple of zip rims for $5.00

so you spent 500 on a bike. A brand new touring bike costs 3X to 4X that much. Some of you expenses would apply even to a new bike, fenders, racks and tires.

Steel would be my preferred choice. This is what I got though so I used it!

The best bike is the one you have!

the "best" bicycle hasn't been invented yet 🙂

​@@tomcatt998Agreed. Physics and human anatomy says it's not possible. Different spokes for different folks.

Thanks & Great to hear! Best wishes

@@WheelstoWander 👍

😄 Sounds like you have found your sweet spot!

Thanks! This is another secondhand bike. All the best!

It is what a had available at the time. Chromoly would have been preferred!

Honestly, I that's mostly hipster BS because "steel is real." A quality aluminum frame can last a long time as well. Also, repairing a steel frame is not as easy as people like to pretend it is.

Thank you Robert! That would be great, routing should be available to everybody I believe. Wishing you all the best!!

Great to hear that! Thanks & Best wishes

Ja, leuk! Vroeger zag je ze heel regelmatig. Nog steeds bruikbare MTB's. Groet!

Thanks 😊

If I remember correctly it's by Procraft from a Dutch website. Happy building!!

Giant bikes are awesome. My first bike was a Giant Talon 2 2021. I was 127kg then, but it never let me down even though I used it on trails (no jumps).

Yeah. Mine is a Talon 1 bought in 2023. Now it is a toned down Trekking Mountainbike and I love it. It looks like a Gravel-MTB. It is in sparkling brown with black logo with tan wall 55 mm fast rolling tires. The assembly was done in Europe. Quality control hasn’t been the best though. Both front and back derailers needed adjustment and the bottom bracket bearings are ticking after 1500km. They probably need some more grease. I ride it hard and with a bike-packing load though.

Sounds great 👍🏼 Thanks for sharing! Enjoy the ride!!

Thanks. You two too. If you are interested. On the suspension fork the Ortlieb Forkpacks were used. The rack is the Ortlieb Quick Rack with optional 70 mm mudguard (use zip ties to fasten the mudguard). Everything can we taken off the bike within a few seconds to get the bare MTB back. The Quick Rack gives the bike a cool look.

I did the same thing with my Talon. 2.1 Mezcals (fast on pavement) ... Redshift suspension seatpost and a lighter fork that I can lock out. and the Jones bar I put on the Talon makes it comfortable for big miles.

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Thanks Reece! Happy to hear you liked it! All the best, E&M

I can answer that for you and tell you that you don't feel them through your shoes. Like you rightly say though they give you great grip especially when it is wet. Good luck and one tip is to steer clear of Stamp pedals. They frequently need rebuilding and are more trouble than they are worth!

@@Biking360 Thanks for the detailed reply, I will probably try to get some studded/pinned pedals but want them with reflectors.

@@grahambonner508 you have to keep in mind that these pedals are quite nasty when pushing. It hurts when you hit your leg in the studs.

Sounds like a nice project 👌🏼 Best wishes and many more marvellous miles!!

That's great to hear Michael, Thanks! If you have the time and a tinkering mindset it is totally doable. Some things might need a little time to get your head around and some specific jobs are a bit more next level. If you can do it! I have found it to be very rewarding 👌🏼 Best wishes 🍀

That sounds great! Enjoy the ride 😊

Got rid of both of my touring bikes & kept my 6 speed hybrid, with my 2 wheel trailer it does everything i need it to do in Florida.

You raise a good point there!

Nice bikes! I personally am not a fan of drop bars and slim tyres for touring and would prefer a build like this. Enjoy the ride and Thanks for chiming in!

The bags can be expensive but also found quite easily second hand (the bags here were also second hand). Still not cheap but very reliable. A double walled back rim is one of the next upgrades. Best wishes!

That's great! Congrats on that feat 💪🏼

Thanks you! Great to hear you are enjoying your Giant too 👌🏼

Thanks! On our world tour we also rode 26". Never really tried 29" so hard to say. I am curious about a 29"+ platform for increasing comfort and roll over properties. Perhaps one of these days... All the best!

I hope it helps you out! It has worked great so far for me. All the best!!

I noticed too and it will be an important future update!

Thanks for the tips! You have put dedicated thought into this. I will check it out. Best wishes!

Thanks for adding some valuable information! I agree that most of the shelf mountain bikes are not geared towards climbing with luggage and gear ratios are not optimal as result. It is a step deeper into the bike mechanical world, as you said, to change the drivetrain and accompanying shifting works. I plan to do this for this very build and perhaps add that as a "phase two bike build" video. Great to hear you enjoy the videos and have become a subscriber. Best wishes, E&M

Can’t wait for this vid, just got this bike and you inspired me into building my own touring bike, it would be helpful to see how you build your bike! Your videos have already been very helpful, thanks!

It's pretty heavy being a steel MTB. A few kilos extra is not a problem i.m.o. Give it a try for a couple of days! Enjoy & All the best :)

It's will be a future upgrade!

Insta360 X3 👍🏼

For sure a 29-er would make a fantastic touring bike! 26" wheels can be found easier in far flung places.

There are some products that you can clap on. I like the DMR hinged clamps but there are many variations, some even better but more expensive. Hope this help!

26 for touring 29 for bike packing

@@THEBLACKANARCHIST thanks

Probably because there is no much space between the fork and the handlebar and you cannot put there the equivalent of 2 paniers and a handlebar bag. Also the center of gravity will be higher.

There is a front rack mounted (tubus tara) and the weight actually helps to give a less nervous front steering feel.

You can but this is a great way to start even with less fancy upgrades than I had lying around!

👍🏼 Good suggestions!

The tyres are the same size in this video...

I bought my first B17 in the '80s but I killed it too soon because of non/wrong/bad care, I was young didn't know what I was doing. For the last 20y I prefer on my B17's (and other leather goods) on several bikes "Sno-Seal" I don't like any kind of product with any sort of oil or fat, including Proofide or Dubbin, because it softens the leather the only thing which should soften it IMO is your lower end and riding that thing but I'm big + tall which speeds up the process for me the B17 is comfy out of the box and become even better over time. I preped my B17's by using a hairdryer and "Sno-Seal" it's a Bees Wax Product which makes the leather literally waterproof w/o soften it or clogging the hide, by using a haidryer the Sno-Seal on the underside it is absorbed by the leather also around the rivets the edges + top and polishing the surface on top after it.

​@@brokenspine66With sagging then stretching the B17 rivets will eventually fail. The new ones are 3x the size.

Thanks Joe! I have always used the Brooks saddle wax as it came with the saddle. The tip from brokenspin66 also looks interesting but I would be concerned that te saddle would be to hard from the beeswax.

@@WheelstoWander Not with Sno-Seal because it's specially made for leather goods like boots and other stuff and I use it for a very long time none of my hiking boots or my saddles ever get 'hard'.

🙏🏼

Sounds great David 👌🏼 Keep on enjoying that sweet ride! Best wishes 🍀

Most likely someone has...

That would be possible sure! Climbing would be challenging probably...

Perhaps not ideal but could work!

👍🏼

I have no experience being taller so I believe what you experience. Times are changing and depending on which place you are other wheel sizes may be easier to get, especially in western countries.

Thanks Jeroen! Hopelijk vindt je een koper 🍀

Sounds like a straightforwards and fantastic bike you got there!! Tailwinds 🍀

Thanks for the tip! Yes, it is a horrible feeling knowing you are destroying your rims that way. Since you have the idea perhaps you could come up with a nice solution... All the best!

It sure is a great saddle! I am looking at upgrading my front rack to one with a platform. Great to hear you enjoy your setup 😊 Best wishes!

👍🏼

Happy to hear you enjoyed the video! Best wishes 😊

Haha 😉 I can see how you got that!

Steel would be my first choice but I also like to use what is available!

Research is a starting point for sure! I will ave a look at that suspension seatpost. Thanks & Best wishes 😊

It's the opposite: Some grease to help prevent the bolt from seizing up. Good luck with your search 🍀

They could be worth it for really thorny conditions!

​@@WheelstoWanderMy Schwalbe have Kevlar.

A fancy bike doesn't guarantee a great adventure! Enjoy the ride 🍀

Some parts are a bit pricey and don't necessarily have to be but I had them lying around. The bike can be bought very cheaply perhaps 50$ if you search around. Reasonable parts (second hand if possible) for this upgrade would come between 200 / 300 $ I guesstimate.

Nice one Mark! Sounds like a do it all bike. If I have some time I will give the videos a look. Enjoy and All the best!!

Any chance of a photo showing how you haul your kayak? I'd love to haul mine, it's only 4.3m.

Thank you for adding some valuable information!

Don't believe the hype, but my Brooks saddle is so comfy I swap it between my mtb and tourer.

I’ve had a lot of Brooks saddles and did months long trips on them. I’m not really a fan. They are comfortable, but not more than a modern ergonomic saddle at the same price point. Provided you buy the right size and the saddle is fitted by a professional, of course. Brooks (like all leather saddles) have weak spots, especially the limited choice in sizes and the durability of the rivets and the mechanism to tighten the leather with. And when you travel for a couple of days in wet weather they will deform until the leather sags over the metal struts. Have no illusion, tightening the leather only goes so far. And finally, at a certain moment they start to make creaking sounds, which is really irritating when cycling through nature.

i just brought 3,, one for all 3 bikes

@@HaErBeSo The problem with the modern ergonomic saddles is that they are plastic and if they don't fit your anatomy, they won't be comfortable and will never get better. Finding the right size and shape will probably require testing a number of saddles and the good ones have prices similar, or even higher than Brooks. The brooks just conforms to the shape of your body, which probably outweigh the cons you described

It depends on the gradient of the downhill 😉

That is great!! All the very best with your build and lots of wonderful miles to come :)

Hi Micheal! Thanks 😊 There is something special about being able to do simple things that get you far. We hope or paths cross some day! Best wishes, E&M

🙌🏼 Nice! Enjoy the ride 🍀

Nice! Have a great project & Tailwinds 🍀

It can be done! Easier on steel frames but still quite a specialists job!

I agree with the low gears and would use an adjustable stem to dial in the bike fit.