Excellent video. Concise step-by-step video on how to make a zero clearance table saw insert. Of course it helps to have all the proper tools and equipment to make the job a little easier. Rockler Woodworking is my #1 source for woodworking projects because of their innovations.
If your zero clearance insert has seen better days, you can tape the top of the insert and pour epoxy onto the underside of the insert. PU glue would also work. Recut the slot and it's as good as new.
I have an older delta contractor saw 36-441 and the blade won’t lower down enough to fit plate over it…. Omg and u come through w the dato black hack- awesome ty assume a 71/4 circler saw blade may work for those w out dato?
How do you account for variations in depth of the tabs? My existing plate has adjustment screws which doesn't offer much sturdiness since it's just a screw head making contact.
Any shape can be template-routed. Whether the throatplate is oval-shaped or more rectangular makes no difference to the router bit. However, if your throatplate's shape is mostly straight, parallel lines with square corners, you might be able to duplicate your throatplate without even needing to template-rout it; ripping, crosscutting and filing/sanding the corners round might do the trick, too. Use whatever methods will produce an accurate copy in the most efficient way for you.
Brett Barnts you have to make different “zero clearance” insert plates for every different angle. The factory insert plate has a wide opening to accommodate various angles.
Looks good but I have a Porter Cable table saw with a 1/8" steel throat plate. I've not tried to make one because I am not sure any non metallic material can be strong enough if only 1/8" thick. Any ideas?
Izzy Swan has a video where he solves this problem by melting and flattening some schedule 40 PVC pipe. He uses that to make the top of the plate, then screws it to some plywood for the "body" of the plate. The result is kind of a "T" shaped plate, where the PVC overhangs and reaches the perimeter of the hole, while the plywood provides the strength. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KeSJQQYu478.html
We have not used the Fast Cap Zero Clearance Tape. It is specified to be used on miter saws. The thickness could be a problem for sliding work pieces across a table saw. It might work on a table saw, but the insert would have to be modified to allow for the thickness of the tape so that it ends up flush with the table saw surface.
FYI, the teeth on a dado blade are wider (~0.148") than a regular blade (~0.123"). This allows them to overlap when stacked. The disc to which the teeth are attached are also thinner on a regular blade. So using a dado blade completely wipes out any "zero clearance" benefits. A better way is to set the insert on shims that sit on the tabs in the throat that are used to level the plate. These shims must be raise the insert high enough to allow the blade to turn when the insert sits on the shims. Now hold that down with cauls and raise the blade.
Wilhelm, the benefit is not eliminated if you are making a plate for full- or half-height cuts, as the larger blade will cut a (narrower) slot forward and backwards from the initial hole. Stumpy Nubs has a video in which he uses a cross-cut jig and 2-sided tape to do what you suggest, raising the specific blade the plate is being made for.
