The amount of thought and detail you’ve put into each of these projects is nothing short of exceptional, thank you! I am one who will build just about anything rather than buy it if I can figure out how it goes together, and your plans make that almost easy!!! I’ll be purchasing a few of your plan sets for sure!!!
Love the care you take. Even with something a lot of guys see as not important. The varnish the pin all show that you care. It shows the mark of a craftsman
My grandfather was a carpenter and wood worker for over 50 years and I have to say even after all the things I learned from that man I still find it interesting how many tips and tricks i pick up from your videos.
I had to show this to my wife. She complains that I put too much thought into things and I should just do it. She says it's because I'm an engineer and what she can do in 30 minutes takes me a day. When you get to the part of taking 5 thousands off, she couldn't believe you used a gauge to determine the distance. YAY! She no longer thinks I over think things (well she does, but has much less to complain about after seeing this.
I especially like it when things that engineers over-think end up not killing me. We need people to do things well and thoroughly, and we have politicians for the other stuff.
I thought it was a bit OTT initially... but I'd measure it with my vernier calipers, then loosen and tap the fence, and then measure again. So it's only a matter of degree, I think.
@@Chris.Davies my father had a cabinet shop in Oregon and his table saw was so precise he never used a jointer. We once picked up once 8-10 foot long 3-4 feet wide 4 inch thick slabs of "curly" maple and we spent about 2 weeks sawing it. There was so much of it we filled a van several times, and it was loaded so heavy it sat on the springs (we only had to move it 1/2 mile). A good table saw in the right hands is an amazing tool He always made his own inserts too.
coat both sides to make warpage "less likely". That's the part that people never hear, LESS LIKELY. Great video. I was just thinking about making an insert and you video caught my eye and showed me everything I needed to know. Thank You Matthias.
The things you make amaze me. I live in a family of engineers, one software and one aerospace. Your level of enginuity is a gift. Not all things are taught in school. Keep sharing!
Very clear, concise and calm description/info. Thank you for posting this 3.5 years ago - I just found it tonight for the first time & then subscribed - very well done sir.
I appreciate and enjoy your very helpful videos Mr Wendel. I began a new job at a Finish Carpentry shop a while back where I am building custom cabinetry, doors, gun racks etc. Your info and advanced technique is very helpful. Thank you.
Just my opinion. Whatever works for you. I like your videos and watch them all the time. I have gotten lots of good information from them. No insult was intended.
Matthias as usual awesome video. I think you may have missed your calling building space shuttles.. Your accuracy and dedication to getting something just right always humbles me! Thanks for the video.
I'm sure you pay SO much attention to the negative comments and those who have a better way to do anything and everything, but have ZERO videos of their own that help anyone. Yea, I thought so. Keep 'em coming. Great videos, really appreciate the insights you provide.
I have used “ hard board “ as a zero clearance setup for years. I cut certain widths frequently. Each piece has multiple slots. I lay it up against the fence and clamp or blue tape it down and start ripping.😎👍
I have push sticks. I never need to use that horrendous gripper. The idea of pressing down over the blade with my hands as close to the blade, as the gripper requires, gives me shivers.
Creating a zero clearance table saw insert. step one -- Make sure you have a zero clearance table saw insert. You'l need it for step 3 and 4. No disrespect intended. It just reminded me of a video I saw once when someone was showing people how to make their own anvil and right off the bat he said first you need an anvil. You're the king Matthais. Keep up the fantastic work.
Thanks for your experience on this. I have wanted to make some zero clearance inserts for a long time, but been afraid of wasting a lot of time, this gives me a lot of confidence!
After seeing this I just replaced my cheap plastic insert which broke with a new one made of Corian. Combined with a basic sled my £100 saw is now capable of turning out good quality joinery. Thanks Matt.
My used table saw came with an aftermarket zero clearance insert but it was a little chewed up and I like mine to be as close to the saw blade as possible. It fit perfectly, unlike the factory insert, so I was able to use it and a pattern bit with my router to make a new one, so it depends on what you're starting with. I definitely like the idea of the spline in the outer end and will incorporate that into the next insert I make, which will be a 45 degree one. Your 30 degree insert inspired me.
"I'm gonna take 5 thousandths off"... the fact that he can say that and then do it just shows TRUE SKILL!!!! I envy you kind sir and thanks for the great videos!
Very well presented...I like the idea of screwing four srews under the insert in order to adjust its height...mixing and sharing ideas will always be and excitement for me...Bravo!
I'd like to visit your shop just to look around, and be fascinated even more. Thanks for the really keen ideas some of which I've taken notes on. Just one thing worries me; you're breaking the rule that my manuual training teach insisted upon: must wear and apron, and MUST ROLL UP SLEEVES ABOVE ELBOW !
I've made these inserts as well. I make them out of oak and they really work well. It's a good idea to be putting the little screws in for height adjustment. I'll be doing this tomorrow!!!
Matthias ... You're the best .... I have learned a lot from you over the past couple years... I Soooo enjoy your videos... and I too am an engineer ... love the details...
you know, your videos are very informational in themselves, but I enjoy how your brain works, how you solve problems. admirable. anyway,...enough mushy, just thanks man, thanks.
I've also made my own zero clearance inserts and use a variant of your method. I use the table saw slot to determine the correct width,trace the ends and cut them outside the line. For us non-engineers, this is easier. After sanding the ends to fit, they can then be sanded to fit exactly. They're cut out of stock that is thicker than the stock insert. They can then be planed to exactly the thickness needed and I've found that the end pin is not necessary. However, adding it would be a plus and certainly would be compatible with your method.
soon times I just can not figure how am I going to do this . But with your videos and a little practice , Your how is greatly appreciated. thank you. Rick
When you're trying to get things accurate, a few thous make all the difference. I realized two 6" long pieces ripped to the same width, when one was flipped, showed different widths at each end. Turns out when measuring between the front and back of my blade and the fence, was a 0.009 discrepancy! A slight adjustment, and now my edges are much more parallel.
To level the throat plate you can drill through holes at each screw location and use four short grub screws. This way it's adjustable from the top with the plate in place.
Regarding a couple of comments: 1) "Safety" comments about the lack of guarding: Matthias keeps the guards off in his videos so that we can see what he's doing. 2) On use of calipers and other high precision methods: This is a great idea because as components are put together, the teeny errors add together and accumulate as much larger errors at the end of the assembly. Many of Matthias' projects involve multiple interconnected pieces that simply will not function if there is more than a couple of hundredths of an inch accumulated error, whereas a piece of high quality furniture is static and naturally can be "massaged" into a tight assembly even if any of its pieces are off by fraction of an inch/
HOLY Crudbuckets!! I seriously envy your workshop! having recently come into my first table saw recently, having few other tools i felt good and thought my workshop might finally take shape but you sir, WOW!! i would love to be able to build my own workshop to something half as well equipped and professional as that! If that is in your home and its all your doing my goodness!! Its amazing!
That's some nice work. I haven't replaced my fence to get those sort of tolerances, but I used a piece of hack saw blade as a spring to hold the insert fast, similar to the spring in my original insert.
Again - lots of math - turn the original upside down, and trace. The thickness of your pencil will make it just a bit too big, sand to fit - which you have to do anyway. Math is fun, more fun to be done, yes? For stiffness, glue two 1/4 thick pieces together in the first place, grain at90deg - then cut the inserts out of that. Simpler. Keep at it, Mathias - love all your great work!
It would be interesting to know the actual length of time it took you to accomplish the task in comparison to the length of your instructional video. The students in my class have to do an instructional video as a final project and the time difference is extraordinary. They really appreciate and understand how much detail you go into and how time consuming it is to do it right. Thanks again, Western Michigan Matthias Wandel Fan Club.
On my Jet 3 hp saw the first thing I did is drill and tap four holes in the mild steel casting under the factory insert and screw in the levelling screws from the factory insert. If you use the same material, little or no adjustments needs to be made. I like 1/2 mdf. Hot melt can be dabbed to tighten the fit. I did use the router table and factory insert ,just drill a couple holes in the aluminum insert to attach it to your blank. Cheers
Make your first one a precision using your methods they keep to use as a template to make additional ones with your router and bearing cutters. This has worked good for me.
To get a better fit for my inserts, I add allen-head set-screws in the sides of the insert. I also made a template that fits my saw very well, and use a pattern bit in my router to cut new inserts. I also use set-screws to adjust the height on some of my inserts. I personally make my inserts from MDF or polycarbonate, as they are more stable and don't tend to move like solid wood will. I also have a nice aluminum insert that uses replaceable lexan strips for the saw kerf area. It's great for odd angles and such, as the lexan strips are cheap and easy to swap out. You could make a similar insert from MDF or lexan with regular woodworking tools.
great video!! you make it all seem so easy but the trick is being well set up. you answered a lot of questions I had and saw some great ideas. Keep on rocking your a superstar!!
I think the best woodworkers are those who consider themselves perfectionists, if not engineers. I tend to eyeball things and sneak up on the perfect measurement should I happen to be off a hair. That’s my measurement system, by the way, “a hair, two hairs, three hairs;” not exactly scientific, but still highly accurate. Nice job, Mathias!
I use the router a method to copy my throat plate once I get one that's perfect sized, but I tweaked the undersized ones by just adding masking tape until they fit perfectly tightly. Recently I started adding small wood splitters into the end, so that I don't need to install my metal splitter. Birchply and MDF have both worked well for years. When they wear out/get widened slots, I've tried filling w/ epoxy or pva & sawdust; somewhat crude looking results; next time I'll clamp face to scrap of glass for a smoother surface. I wish you'd invent / video an overhead Table saw dust collector like (or better than) the one SawStop has.
I liked the video. When running a thin piece against the fence I usually push it clear with my push stick, I haven't had any problems with that. I think I'd use the flush router bit after I'd made a wooden insert that I thought fit well.
I've made quite a few table saw inserts using Corian or other made made counter top scrapes that you can often get for free ! The material is flat and stiff, and won't warp .
Yes, it is in fact. They get tight side to side in the summer, and looser in the winter. Varnish - that slows down humidity changes, but the varnish, even oil based, is not entirely impermeable.
Threaded set screws for height adjustment with wood threads are available, drill am tap. For the nose of the plate to keep from tilting, I epoxy a flat washer to the under side of the from radius.
@Very Trucker: Use a nylon cutting board for the basic material. Leave it the original thickness. Measure how deep the recess is for the insert and cut the outline of the hole from the backside, leaving a lip the thickness of the recess. I think that you'll find that the stock inserts (should have been two) are actually supported on set screws and that the insert depth is quite a bit more than the metal thickness of the insert.
Inspired by this video, I have replaced my factory-fitted insert with a custom job, complete with adjustable screw feet. Now started building the small table saw sled :-)
Nice Video Matthias.. I need to make myself up a few of these for my early 70s Craftsman table saw, It's square in the front & round in the back 3 3/4" x 12" x .950" thick, That's the problem too thin to be wood, I'm gonna try a polymer from scraps of an old refrigerator.. I could also use aluminium & a 7 1/4" metal blade to cut the slot.. Thanks for the ideas.. Gary/Hk
Nice inserts, great thought using splines on the ends. For drawing the shape, how about draw a 34 x 9.6 rectangle and use compass set to 4.8 to mark the radius center from each end. One 34 measurement, one compass set, so both radius are exactly the same, rather than 3 measured points on the tape measure plus another compass 4.8 offset.
Tape wrapped around to build it up was my first thought. Another would be to make a master out of MDF or a couple of pieces of 1/4" masonite laminated together for thickness. You could use the tape method or his method to make your master. You would then use this master as your template to make all future inserts from. Since mdf and Masonite are very dimensionally stable the master should retain it's dimensions much better than plywood or solid wood. Give it a thin coat of poly for additional moisture protection. UMHW would probably be the best material but most people have some scrap mdf laying around. I would also drill and countersink screw holes where your leveler screws are going to go to attach the blank to the master. This will be easier to separate than carpet tape and you will already have your holes for your leveler screws when you are done. I would also use plywood to make my inserts. Solid wood is too dimensionally unstable.
