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In this video I will be showing you how to mark the holes in your sill plate for anchor bolts. As you can see we are building the garage, the concrete pad was poured and the anchor bolts were added in before the concrete pad surface was finished. It can be a bit tricky getting those holes in the exact location if this is something you’re new to.
First is ensuring all those anchor bolts are straight. These aren’t always installed straight, if they are not straightened, this can throw off the hole alignment. A nylon-faced hammer is recommended, this will not damage the threads. Another option is installing the nut, then hammering the anchor plumb. Careful when doing this, if your anchors are close to the edge, you do risk breaking out a piece of concrete.
Next was cutting out the sill plate which you can see was already done here and the door opening was already marked out. The walls which run the full length will be done first. It’s important to use pressure-treated wood for a sill plate and it has protection against moisture when it’s lower to the ground and close to or against the concrete.
Marking out those anchor points is the step before marking out your studs. Once you know where those anchor points are located, this will help with making any adjustments needed for your studs.
The sill plate is placed next to the anchor bolts, the section before the door is even with the front of the pad and the section after the door is even with the edge of the pad on the rear. Measurements and adjustments are taken from the edge of the pad ensuring the plate runs parallel with the edge of the pad.
Using a combination square, mark out each side of the anchor bolt. I find this to be the most accurate, when that hole is being drilled, I’ll know right away that the hole is in the correct location.
For the depth from the edge, again using the combination square, set the depth from the edge of the pad to the outside edge of the anchor bolt. Then continue to mark that out on the sill plate.
After that is determining the center between the two lines, then marking over the center from the outer edge reference. This can be used on any size of the anchor bolt.
The anchor bolts are 1/2” but I am using a 5/8” spade bit. It’s slightly larger and this will make up for any problems where something doesn’t align and it gives me that movement to get everything in line for making sure that the wall is straight. The slightly oversize hole will be covered with a large washer that will have no problem keeping everything in place.
After that is laying out my studs and I’ll show you how to go about laying out a stud that falls on top of an anchor bolt.
As for installing a stud over an anchor bolt location. Some notch it out and leave it as is but this isn’t fully structural. The bottom of the stud is notched out and this will face the inside of the building. The notch is high enough that I’m able to install the nut.
An additional stud is cut.
These two studs are nailed together about every 24”. The nails are installed on an angle as they’re 3-1/2” in length and they would come out the other side otherwise. Always make sure the crown on your studs is in the same direction.
The wood isn’t always straight or if it was, it’ll bow and warp on its own as it isn’t always properly dried from the lumbar yard. I’m a big fan of using these clamps to pull the boards into place. This is the best way to achieve a flush wall so no studs interfere with any wall coverings.
I’ve already nailed the sill plate so next is working on the first section of the top plate. This double-up stud will have four nails in total, two in each board just like the rest of the studs.
Once done, here you’re able to see that notch when the wall is in place.
I will be installing these plates when the garage is closed in just so they’re not exposed to the weather.
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16 июл 2024
