How To Mash Brewtools 

Cheers to that 🍻 Thank you very much

Thank you very much 🍻

Anytime 🍻

Thank you very very much 🍻

Hi Bradley, Hi Luca, I would like to know as well how to fit the hose barb 19 mm with the 10 mm of manifold. Any tips? Thanks!

Thank you You too Brewing anything this weekend ?

@@PortlyGentleman not this weekend. Doing a roof for my inlaws. How bout you?

LoL That's a beauty of RU-vid You can always pick and choose the parts you watch 🍻

Thank you 🍻 It's pretty simple It's just a 12-gallon pot with a kegking well this heating element. I use an inkbird controller for now it works well for how much it costs 🍻

Anytime 🍻

Thank you very much

Thank you I really tried to improve my video production skills It takes practice like everything. I feel like that's a trip question lol truthfully part of the fun for me is being able to change things at my whim or to suit my current thinking. So truthfully there are probably some constants in my current setup. Undoubtedly there will be things Will evolve over time In my opinion that's one of the greatest benefits of Brewtools. Other people may not see this as a positive I personally love it .

Thanks Gary 10 minutes more for another 2% sounds pretty good to me actually. Sometimes I've let my mesh rest longer than intended just because I'm moving around cameras and whatnot. Truthfully I didn't notice that kind of increase,To be honest I don't always pay that much attention to efficiency 😬. did you set your strike temperature slightly higher to account for the longer duration resting? I often set my strike a little bit higher than my intended first mash step.

@@PortlyGentleman I set my B40 up to have a 5 deg overshoot on mashing in, eg if the recipe calls for a 66 deg mash temp i have it at 71 deg for mash in, I also gave it a slightly longer stir in than i usually do [just another minute or so] i'm brewing again this Sunday and will leave it 30 mins again to see if lightning does strike twice ;-) Thinking about the Northern Monk brewday video, the brewery was likely brewing multiple thousand litres so a longer mash rest makes sense for 100s of KGs of malts, again quality video bud...

The pump has multiple paths for output It's never fully closed off for more than a second or 3 when switching valve configurations

I don’t quite understand but thank you for washing

My manifold was the inspiration for the one that was released recently.

Here's a link to it. What type of system are you using it in ? www.morebeer.com/products/ss-brewtech-mash-recirculation-manifold.html?a_aid=PortlyGentleman

Trubtraper

@@PortlyGentleman Thank you, not able to source one at present. Contemplating making one.

Thank you it's the smaller ssbt

Certainly once conversion is achieved you're good to move . If you're doing a step mash then this will obviously take longer. For instance because I was brewing such a low ABV beer I'm pretty sure I could have stopped massing after about 20 minutes or so. I went longer because I use that time to do video things.

Very low 80s to high 70s I could definitely squeeze more out . I'm happy with my current numbers, malt Is quite inexpensive 🍻

Typically once I reach my boil volume I pull the mash tun I said it aside and a tray and let it drain a little bit more then dump it in the trashcan

@@PortlyGentleman ah so raw force after it dried. Thanks

If you only knew 🍻

There's so many variables when it When it comes to efficiency. I use a lot of Mecca greatest statement, most of their malts have crazy high diastatic power.

Hi. I have my B40 set at a grain absorption rate of .85 and a mash thickness of 3.8. Hit the numbers the last three brews. Saying that I previously also had good results with the mash thickness at 3.5, but found I had to continually manage the grain bed. I have the mash tun deadspace set at 3.3L. This is 3L under the mash pipe and .3L in my default setup for the bypass. NB The kettle level reading is not the same as the amount in the kettle as there is .3L in my pipework and when I counter chill i lose another 1.2L. You should run some control tests to see how the water vollumes change on different setting and take all vplume readings taking this into account. IE. When I take my post boil volumes I know I need to add the 1.5L in my total pipework to provide the correct result. Also try adding 15 minutes to the main mash rest step. This seems to have really improved my efficiency - so far a 60 minute rest I now let stand with whirlpool on bypass for 30 minutes and then circulate through mash for 45 minutes. I do have major doubts that sparging is very efficient on these all in one systems, and one reason why I have moved to a higher mash thinkness and hence mash volume where I know I will get a full extraction. I am thinking of trying some no sparge brews as I see people like Martin Keen on Homebrew Challenge getting great results without sparging and starting to believe is a legacy of the old methods using 3V setups. If interested, I have my hourly boil off rates at 2.5 L for 1 hour and 1.8 for 90 minutes. Still fine tuning this tbh. The rate is not the same for 90 and 60 as you have the same overhead of ramping up and down the temperature for both periods. If i have to run a hopstand then I would increase this slightly. This is with a steam hat and no condenser. Boil off rates are much greater wthout the steam hat. Trub loss is currently at c. 3L but I increase if a hoppy beer due to hop absorption. This is always a gut feel tbh. I just brewed David Heath's ESB quite straightforward recipe and this resulted in a 86% mash efficiency and a 73% BH efficiency. The more hops in the beer, the more the BH efficiency should drop due to hop absorption. Hope that helps. And good luck. As Bradley says it is all about practice. David

its only 10 minutes The temperature fluctuation is extremely minimal. Lots of people mash in ice chess and what not.

@@PortlyGentleman thanks for the answer. Temperature level of the mash rest??

@@adolfotavizon915 The temperature level is typically whatever your first mashed up or your only mashed up is. Obviously you could do one at a much cooler temperature if you want to would be the same thing.