Thanks for the important video!! Do you ever top coat your waterbase colorant with solvent?? Or is it all water-based system? In this vedio every thing was toned onto raw wood. I would also like to see you change color on say a preexisting kitchen. Example: the kitchens original color is golden oak. To which your clinet wishes to have you tone to a medium brown. The client says, I have this furniture and I love this "medium brown" and I want my golden oak kitchen to match it......exactly! The client is asking you to tone, not strip, the kitchen. Also the original kitchen is solvent based nitrocelulose lacquer. In this case would you tone color in water base or solvent. All I do is refinish kitchens. The kitchens are all solvent lacquer in various states of decline. I am impressed with your color matching ! I tried some waterbased stain and it seemed to just sit on the surface of the sanded lacquer.....without "biting in"....I don't know enough to say weather it would work or not?? I would very much enjoy hearing how you would approach this kitchen originally factory sprayed in solvent?? Thanks Jim
Also I must say I really like your color matching because you got the color yet still appeared to have grain. Or at least did not turn your stain into paint..!! Congratulations! So if I spray too much....I have to remove my toner and start over....! Hate that!!
Hi Jim in case of toning what I would do is sand aggressively and then spray wb clear poly 2k or 1 k with a bit of a wb colourant to achieve desired color. This is not my fav way because of the adhesion issues and also it won’t change the look of the cabinets dramatically. I don’t have a lot of clients asking about this .
I was just thinking the other day it's been a while since I saw one of your videos. Glad to see. Question: What do you use for shop lighting as to Kelvin temp since this greatly influences the appearance of the stain? Stay well!
