How to maximize your cuts and minimize waste on the sawmill 

That is exactly right. I save my smaller logs for the beams and posts.

Interesting. thank you

Sometimes the comments I read on RU-vid are fantastic. Yours is one of them. I'm very new to sawmilling having just finishing assembling my mill and I can tell you I know nothing about sawing logs. Done a few test cuts on some 6' long logs. Worked out the water and feed speeds and spent the rest of the time ironing out the very many bugs, then finally setting the mill up for accuracy. I've now moved the mill from where I assembled it into the area where I'll be sawing the lumber to build a shed to put my mill in. First I need a covered wood rack so I have a log on the mill ready to go and was wondering what to do with it - hence this vid. Read your comment. What an absolute ripper! I live in a forest and can choose whatever diameter and species I want for various projects and your comment is immensely helpful. Why? Because I was actually going to waste my big logs by cutting 6x6s and larger out of them. You saved me LOL. Cheers for that.

Something that may help to make the cutting more efficient is a log to cant scale, like the magnet one cage hill sawyer has. To get a clean 6x6, you need a log that is 9" in diameter on the small side. A simple swag would be the diameter of the log multiplied by 0.7. So 9"×0.7=6.3" post. Now, if the log has lots of knots, you should also cut the log where the blade enters the small end first. The main reason is to prevent waves in the cut due to knots, and also, by cutting the small end first you will know the limits of your cut. Good luck with your new sawmill. Stay safe and have fun.

The advanced setworks on a Timberking are one of the best out there. I don't like their simple setworks. The best I've seen of that is the simple setworks on a woodmizer LT35. Each company does it slightly differently. Hope the channel continues to be enjoyable for you, happy sawing, have fun, and stay safe!

I appreciate the kind words. I started on a bandsaw sawmill back in 2003. But I've been fortunate enough to run a lot of different sawmills and network with sawyers. I love to talk about sawmills and try and learn as much as I can.

Thanks, glad you enjoyed

Agree- I try to get at least a 1x6.

Yes you are correct but for the job I was cutting the customer wanted 2x4's. The off cuts I put off to the side and I'm using them for another job. My goal for these logs was maximum yield with the fewest cuts.

@@TCSawmills clients job first with sharp blade. Can always resaw later💪

Jack like you I hate to waste anything, but I've noticed that most sawyers cut the logs just as Thomas has done. I find that the boards cut from initial cutoffs are always cupped when they dry even with extra weight on top. I usually cut them 5/4 so they can be planed down to a 3/4 board, but it is a bunch of extra work. I usually run the cutoffs through the chipper and salvage as much of the sawdust as I can. It all helps in trying to reclaim the rocky soil here. I've been spending a lot of time watching how others cut their logs and why. I"m always looking for a bit of wisdom anywhere I can find it. Which is why I appreciate all the effort Thomas has put in. I also have a Timberking 2000.

It may have been the angle of the camera, but the one thing I didn't do was put a level across the blade and verify left to right a bit more precise. I'll check it out this weekend. Measuring the boards that came off they are spot on + - a 16th.

I will get the contact info for you

His name is Mr. Edwards and you can call or text him at the number on the magnetic scale. 601-606-4907

@@TCSawmills thanks Thomas I ordered 2 n sent the ck.today.

I have built plenty of buildings and structures without issue. Building with green lumber is nothing new. You just have to understand that in dimensional lumber that is green may shrink a little. I like to let the lumber dry for a bit if possible (15% or so) but if not, that's OK. If building a stud wall with green, I would let it dry in place for a month or two before walling it up.

DIB...DIA. INSIDE BARK. Couldn't help myself. Forester for 35 yrs🙂

I sell pine at $1 a board ft if I supply the log and if it's the customer's log I charge 45 cents a board ft

That’s 50 sir😁👍 Great vid man! Thanks...

It doesn't really matter since I have toe boards. If there were lots of knots I would put tge little end towards the saw head.

Yes we are in the process of moving from Mississippi to Wisconsin this summer. It's a huge process since I'm moving all of our household and equipment. I've got a lot of videos uploaded that I'll release over the summer to keep the videos flowing.

@@TCSawmills thanks for your service

The pith is an interesting one. If it can be boxed I box it. Sometimes it can't be due to the cut or the fact that it wanders. It is the least stable part of the tree but lumber containing the pith can still be used, especially in pine. Placement of the pith is key, I examine the wood off the mill and inform the customer that some boards may contain the pith. Based on application that may be ok and the customer can make that call. Additionally when someone puts in a large order I try to give extra boards. A centered pith is the preferred when cutting timbers and posts, but for dimensional wood used in framing it's not. Another way to get around that fact that the board or boards containing the pith are weaker is to cut full dimensional lumber vice store bought. The pith in hardwood like oak should be cut out, however there is a trick I do for river table pieces.

Not sure what you are seeing.... Shows 558 likes and 17 dislikes

Ok, not forcing anyone to watch

Well at least I'm not rude 🙂

Ok