Hello from Germany 👍😁. Here are the torques required for the large screws. = 135 Nm. The screws for self-locking screws, PTO shaft to differential. = 40 Nm. Oil fill and drain plug = 50 Nm. Screw, from the top joint = 50 Nm. The specified torques are from the Mercedes WIS document. I hope I could help you with this. Best regards from Michael 🙌 🙌
I just did this today, your tips were invaluable. Many Thanks... The vent tube was fun and the rear bolt equally fun a wobble extension and other extensions ( about 2 feet of them ) worked well, it was on there pretty darned tight, all in all not too bad . Tomorrow we tackle the steering rack... The power steering hose connections look pretty unhappy.
As a fellow w163 owner here in the UK I want to thank you for your time and effort in the making of these videos. They have proved to be super helpful time and again. Do you have the diesel version in Canada?
BA33.20-P-1001-01D Self-locking nut, upper transverse control arm follower joint to steering knuckle Nm 50 Front axle gear Number Designation Model 163 BA33.30-P-1001-03B Bolt securing front axle gear to front axle carrier Nm 135 BA33.30-P-1002-03B Oil filler screw, front axle gear Nm 50 BA33.30-P-1003-03B Oil drain plug, front axle gear Nm 50 Front axle gear propeller shaft Number Designation Model 163 BA41.20-P-1001-01A Self-locking bolt, propeller shaft to front axle gear flange Nm 40 Front axle gear Number Designation Model 163 BF33.30-P-1001-03B Filling quantities Front axle gear Liters 1.2 Specifications for Service Products Sheet BB00.40-P-0235- 07A 129 589 10 63 00 163 589 01 43 00 1 Hope this helps someone
I went over a ditch after sliding in a storm. I think i stretched my front differential ? I get a clack or space & vibration when driving over 50 mph. Im also hearing a whirling sound? It sounds like outer bearing hub or intermediate bearing shaft? Either both & front differential? Can it get stretched or maybe bearing broke on intermediate drive shaft. I'll start gutting everything once i have all the parts. Great g helpful instructions. Not many on Internet replacing front differential on Mercedes.
Going to be doing the steering rack on my ML320 this weekend.. book says you have to remove the front diff .. Thanks for all the tips.... wish me luck....
Well this is a game changer. That tool is priceless. Thank you sir for all the video. Have a nice cold one . Staying safe whit your family peace. PS you are right never seen a Diffferential on those ML going bad . Just bad luck water going in after your flood. This video is more interesting then my wife movie she’s watching haha. The breader make sense the water coming from there were eles whit it come from. So everything is all right no more noise
Would you recommend replacing the oil in the diff and transmission (sealed for life). I doubbt mine has ever been flushed since the car was made, and has about 150 000km
Thanks for the great video! I was curious to ask if the noise was corrected after all that work? A new test drive at the end would be cool to hear the difference with your tool. Also, I am in Orillia. What town are you in? I have a 2012 R350 that spit the right front shaft out of the differential the other day. I think I am into the same job.
The noise was mostly gone when the diff was swapped out . The rear wheel bearing on the drivers side was going as well and once it was done there was zero noise . I’m pretty convinced the rear bearing was making more noise than the diff . Just one of those times you are certain it’s coming from the front and it isn’t . If I had used the chassis ear on all 4 bearings I would have caught the rear bearing sooner without doing the diff . First . I’m in Innisfil 😁
Never apologise for being thorough! My ML350 has started to idle rough, particularly when in gear but also when in park. It’s enough to make the rev needle move. I changed plugs, leads and gave it an oil change. I’ve also tested continuity in the coil packs and they look ok, although they’re 17 years old and have covered 91k miles so are due for a change. I don’t think the engine mounts are bad. Any thoughts?
Crankshaft position sensor , MAF . and or Cam sensor. Use MAF cleaner and see if that helps first since it is the least expensive , Cam and Crank sensors are around $40 each .. The crank sensors will all eventually go bad , could also be an air leak around the Throttle body seal to the airbox .. the round seal is about $5 and takes about 5 minutes to swap out
@@mikehall117 Check the vac lines on the MAP sensor front of engine they have a tendancy to get brittle and break off. Vac leaks will cause the symptoms that you describe. Maf sensor is a great place to start as well
My front diff is definitely getting tight, i try to never turn full lock or have the car in neutral if I do, but at nearly 300k miles, I'll probably be doing this job soon. A lot easier than I would've expected, actually, some IFS diffs are really tucked up in there with the motor.
@@fupabox hmmmm good point, I'll take a closer look at everything when I put the snow tires on in a couple weeks, but it "feels" like the front diff to me, but it could be the transfer case for all I know, too. Wouldn't hurt to change all the fluids either. But it's probably a long way from catastrophic failure
I broke 3 of them, the case and that arm are weaker than the rear, which is bigger. Ok my center diff is locked (as it should be offroad). Those people at ZF build shit, and they proudly mark the case with their name, shame of engineering. Steering rack too, i'm at 4th
