Zoe, as others have said, this is the most clear explanation of how to create an armhole princess seam that I've seen. I now have far more confidence in pattern making and fitting this kind of princess seam. Thank you so much!
I recently purchased the Helen Joseph Armstrong book, "Pattern making for Fashion Design". It is a very good book, but your video makes it crystal clear to someone, ie, me, who has no knowledge at all with pattern making. In fact, I wish I had seen this before I bought the book. You have taken a complicated process and totally simplified and de mysterfied it for me.
Hope you are feeling better real soon!! What a trooper for making the video even though you aren't feeling your best. Thank you - your information is so appreciated!
Your line sounds dope! I hope you'll have some styles with sleeves. I'm top heavy and I like wearing rash guards, especially for snorkeling! Good luck!
I am making a dress for my daughter and unfortunately cannot afford the Simplicity pattern to make it simple for myself. However, I consider that a blessing in disguise as my daughter got to observe my hard work. To help me with this, I pulled out a swimsuit pattern that I had used to make one for her mom for our HI trip. I am using the swimsuit bodice front and side to create the bodice front of her dress. During this process I learned the name of the seam is "princess seam." Making my long story short, I told her that I wished to simply put darts for the bodice/Apex shaping and would rather not used the "princess" seam. She saw me working with simple fabric to figure out the darts and found your video and sent it to me. Wow! This is what I needed. The sewing language is foreign to me because I grew up in another country and professionally I am an educator but your video made it simple enough for me to get the dress made without any further delay. ❤
Hi Zoe. I'm a beginner when it comes to dart manipulation. I would love to be able to move a dart to create new styles in a bodice. Thanks for this video I will be studying it over and over again until I've mastered dart manipulation.
Zoe, Very easy to understand. Thank you. When I first began, I have/had every book you can think of...Fuher, Armstrong, Crawford, McCann, on and on and on......that's what I do. I tend to over complicate things. Thank you for the video! I loved it!
Nice tutorial thanks. I worked in NY 1400.Broadway. Quality Dept. I am an Indian I have many American friends from garments industry. I want to learn a lot from you. Thanks a lot Prem
I came across your video while I needed a little refresher and you explained things so much easier and faster then my teacher does. I realized I’ve been doing things the longer way lol. I’m so glad I watched your video 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Much appreciation for an extremely helpful and informative video. This really helped me visualize how/why darts operate and the opportunities to manipulate them. Sending healing vibes for your Bell’s Palsy. I’ve had BPs twice - once in law school (some 30 years ago) and late 2017 - after several family members stayed with us for an extended time. I know Bell’s Palsy is viral in nature, but I’m convinced stress can cause it to flare up. Get well soon!!
I'm sure stress plays into pretty much everything. It's like salt--emphasizes whatever else is going on. Ha. Thank you and I'm glad you found this video helpful!
I got lost at the ease part, never heard of it. I've been sowing for a couple of years but I've always done it with patterns. My goal is to be able to create patterns of my own
Thanks for the all the videos Zoe! I really enjoy watching all of them because I love your style, it’s all very visually interesting, and it’s full of information. I sew a small amount of my clothes and I often alter a pattern I’ve bought or create a pattern based off clothing I have. Your videos have helped me and inspire me ❤️
Thanks Zoe for this video - great to see how you do the princess seam and add the ease 😀 Hope you are feeling better. My mum had Bell’s and it just took time x
I just learned how to make a basic bodice block for the first time ever the 1 with the 2 basic darts waist & bust seam & it took me 2 days to figure it out as I went along with another RU-vid tutorial video, today I ran across your video & it’s like a whole new world has been revealed 🪄 ✨ lol thank you so much you’re awesome I now have a waay much better understanding. Look out world!! the next biggest fashion designer is in the making lol
Hi Zoe, I'm self learning sewing and pattern making. Your videos are very helpful. Please make few videos on how to make different types of patterns. It will be very helpful.
This was a great refresher course and so perfectly clear and concise! Since I'm just seeing it now, I'm so glad you're better... That's scary what you must have gone through. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us!!!! You're such a great instructor... 🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩
I like that you add 1/2” ease on the side piece of the princess seam. Must give it a try since I’ve never done that before (the 1/2” ease thing) n also no tutorial like this so far.
I learned I’m not at this level lol. I understood darts and then got confused and then there was extra fabric for boobage and I got lost but I know ur a badass teacher so I just need simple training until my zpd moves.
Extra fabric for boobage = bust ease? Yeah, you'll want some to cup the breast. Watch my Answering Your Garment Construction Questions video, I sew up a princess seam with ease and that might help you picture it.
I hope you already feel better. 💙💚❤💜💛 Pattern cutting is my thing and I'm so good at it. Now I want to try this TR pattern cutting by Shingo Sato. His techniques are absolutely brilliant. You are impressive Zoe. Big ups!
Hi Zoe. Love this video it really brought a lot of insight for doing princess seams with dart manipulation.Thank You. I love all your videos and your funny as hell. peace
Hi Zoe, I really enjoyed this lesson. Thanks muchly! I have some blouses that are a little too roomy, and thought I might just try to make them into a Princess Seam. Thanks for mentioning that your friend has a glass table that she lights from underneath. I am about to take over a small space in the apartment with really poor lighting, as a sewing room. Now I know what type of table to get! Brilliant!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi, Zoe, I am self-learning sewing and fashion design, I think your videos are really useful to me ^^. Hope you can upload more videos like this one. Love u ❤.
Thank you SO MUCH for this video. I learned how to move darts last year, but sometimes I still have doubts on how to do it properly. This video helped me a lot since I'm currently doing the patterns for my next mini collection and I can't ruin anything because my grade depends on it. I realized I did a french dart wrong because I made it come out of the waist corner D: Also, the princess seam part helped me even more because my teacher told me I had to do that in a garment, and I have never ever drawn a pattern for that and even less sewn something like that. Hope you feel better soon!
Hi Zoe, thank you for the video! Very informative and on point! Love it! Just a question... how do we sew the 2 parts together with the difference in length when the ease is there? Thank you in advance!
Can you do a video where you combine two darts into one? As in making one waist dart from where there are two waist darts. Thank you! Love your clarity and explanations. 💜
A friend of mine had bells palsy when she was pregnant with her second child. It was scary, but didn't last long. She was mostly "better" after a couple weeks. I say "better" like that cuz she was still cute af anyway and I'm sure you are too!
Thank you so much this was so useful, please do more of pattern making videos and please a little info about sizing standards? Like if your designing a collection how do you figure what sizes you should aim for?
You cater to your customer. If your customer is older, they prefer slightly larger. Are you doing a line for tall men? Are you doing a line for very short women? etc etc.
Hi! Can you please do more advanced dart manipulation techniques to add more interesting lines to the design, that would be super helpful and it cant be found anywhere, thank you for your amazing work 😘
Hiya Zoe, thanks for doing this video however not to sure about some things: one, would the pivoting dart method work with this to make the princess seam? and two, how would you make the princess seam on the back since not too sure where my apex point is and how I would go about moving the dart via pivoting. Thanks so much love! xx
Hello Zoe, first of all you're incredible and thank you for all the information given. I wanted to ask you if u have any book recommendations on PATTERN MAKING and SEWING??❤️
Thanks for this video. Where would you add the the ease for the waist? At the side seam or the center front? Also how much ease would u add to the across back of a princess seam
Zoe thanks for such a clear demo. I have a pattern with a lovely fit but it has a princess armhole seam. I would like to transfer the princess seam to a side bust dart and am having trouble getting it right. Any tips? There doesn't seem to be much on going back to darts.
Do the opposite of the video. Close the ease, attach the 2 pieces at the apex, cut open a line for the side bust dart, close up the space at the armhole to open up the side bust dart.
What if the notch that is above the waist at the end is 1/16th of an inch off? What did I do wrong? This is in reference to when you check everything. And you start walking the pattern. You were walking the pattern from the waist to that first notch.
Hi.Thanks for the video. I have a question on the princess darting.is it possible to draw the curve around the true bust point and cut through without introducing an extra sheet?thanks
@@zoehongteaches I guess I didn't ask the correct question. I have the measurements: High bust 44, Full Bust 46, Band size 40, waist 44. I know the first leg of the dart is horizontal from 1" from the apex to the side seam, but I'm not sure how to determine the placement of the second leg. I hope that makes it more clear. Thank you so much.
Ok, so let's say you want something very fitted. The widest part your bodice will be 46, tapering to 44, so that's 2" to spread out between 4 darts, 2 in front, 2 in back.Each dart will be .5 on average. Depending on the body, you might make those darts a little bit bigger in the front or back, but the total dart intake will be 2".
And you can adjust those numbers for ease and what style of fit you want but basically how wide you make the bust minus how wide you make the waist, divided by 4.
A while back I was reading and trying to figure out how to make a certain pattern using a translated instruction on how to make an outfit and they were saying something about ease. I was so confused and it lead me to here at the time. I did not really understand then but rewatching now I think I have it. Is ease basically adding an amount to the inner breast section that is basically gathered in as you are sewing so it creates more of a curve?
how will i make that half inchon the apex? or how will I sew it.. thank you I hope you make a demo on how to sew it . because when i do the it will be gathered... oh too hard
Hi, I wana to know what the size of your bodice pattern in this video you use ? 6 or 8 ? For your experiences in the fashion industry many years , what's the size of the bodice pattern they normally use to create prototypes or sample ? Last question ! What size of the mannequin u will suggest us to use in the US to create draping garment ? I appreciate your video and I am your new subscriber !
Industry standard for non-plus size sizing is close to bust waist hip 34-26-36 inches. Your sample size should always be the middle size of your size range.
Is it ok if the CF panel is where the ease lays? I'm trying to draft an armhole princess seam for a very short bodice, that sits right under the bust, & the side panel keeps ending up about a half inch shorter than the CF.
How to sew the princess line... I mean the curve is not same measurement. I was tried this kind of pattern making. When I am sew the line was not equal... The fabrik length is not balance.
